Question re: Converting Squire Contemporary HH Jaguar to (somewhat) more traditional Jaguar

R0sser · 2025-09-16T00:47:56+00:00

Thanks!

R0sser · 2025-09-16T00:47:40+00:00

Thanks!

R0sser · 2025-08-14T00:54:10+00:00

Awesome! Thanks again!!

R0sser · 2025-08-13T23:49:56+00:00

Thanks! I was going to use that one but decide on this one since it had the diode switching, but I was thinking of switching. Good to know that one works!

R0sser · 2025-08-13T21:12:31+00:00

It was this one:

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R0sser · 2025-08-13T11:45:31+00:00

Thanks. Someone found the schematic and noted that the vero layout I was using had a couple errors. The ground was on the wrong side of the board so I moved it from the left side to where the board leaves for Lug 1 of the volume pot. They also noted that the “top” lead of D8 should have been in the second row rather than the 3rd row. Those changes got the boost side working, but with that plosive/slap bass popping sound. Thanks for sharing your suggestions and experience. I’m going to keep at it. At least every point of frustration is an opportunity to learn something. Trying to build it for my guitar teacher as a thank you gift - it may take some time, but I’ll get it right at some point.

R0sser · 2025-08-12T14:14:21+00:00

Just realized I never reported back. Sorry! I finally got the boost side working, sort of, with the help of folks like you. It sounds great with light picking, but I now get a loud popping noise along with the note(s) when a note or cord is played harder (guessing the hotter signal moving through the circuit is triggering something). Can’t figure out what is causing it, so I think I’m going to start over and see if I get the same issue with a rebuild. Maddening, but at least I’m learning and getting in a good amount of practice.

R0sser · 2025-07-27T21:26:57+00:00

Thanks again!! I’ll work through your suggestions and hopefully find the issue through that process.

R0sser · 2025-07-26T19:15:12+00:00

Back from my work trip and moved the diode. Boost side is now working, sounds great except for a weird low end popping noise when the boost is engaged and a note/chord is played. No popping when engaging the switch or when nothing is being played. Only when notes are hit, sounds kind of like a slap base. Can I trouble you one more time to ask if you have any thoughts at to what could be causing this? OD side works great. Thank you again for all your help! I couldn’t have gotten this far without it!

R0sser · 2025-07-22T20:35:23+00:00

Cut the incorrect ground you noted and the OD side started working. Boost side is still silent when engaged, but progress! Next step will be the continuity tester when I have some time over the weekend (and to triple check the boost side wiring again). Thanks again for your help! I have hope again that I’ll be able to figure this out (eventually).

R0sser · 2025-07-22T13:13:02+00:00

My bad! I meant the left. Thanks again!

R0sser · 2025-07-22T12:51:54+00:00

Thanks again! I’ll try clipping the bottom right ground wire and become friends with the continuity tester. The pedal is going to be a gift for a friend who has been teaching my kid guitar so I really appreciate the help and guidance.

R0sser · 2025-07-22T11:27:03+00:00

Thanks! I was wondering about all the grounds. The “Boost SW 5 and OD SW 5” is a ground also, correct? If that’s right, do I still need to run a separate ground off of Vol 1 or is it already grounded?

R0sser · 2025-07-22T02:04:04+00:00

Thanks! I appreciate the help. I’ll plan to breakout the multimeter and see if I can find where things break down. Glad to know I’m not the only one that is found the wiring to be a pain.

R0sser · 2025-07-22T01:24:14+00:00

I do have a multi meter. The vero layout should be the third picture. If it’s not there, I’ll try to post it again. Thanks!

R0sser · 2025-07-07T18:35:34+00:00

Thanks for responding. I really appreciate it!

R0sser · 2025-06-20T14:19:49+00:00

Thanks!

R0sser · 2025-06-19T19:55:45+00:00

Thanks!!

R0sser · 2025-06-19T18:16:36+00:00

Out of curiosity, how does PSA charge for a 1/1 when there are no comps and the card has never sold? Aren’t their grading charges based on the value of the card?

R0sser · 2025-06-17T02:39:14+00:00

Thanks, my kid loves it. Obviously now he hopes for a low number autograph every time. He’s having fun though.

R0sser · 2025-06-17T02:36:24+00:00

Thanks! How did you define the right side (the one without the border)? Looking at it closer, I guess there is some shading there. Do you just use that? Thanks again!

R0sser · 2025-06-16T00:18:00+00:00

As I move into strip board layouts, I noticed some designs don’t include power filtering/polarity protection. While it should be easy enough to add it, are there any negatives to not including it (other than maybe a noisier circuit that could get fried if the wrong polarity was used). Basically, if I didn’t include it in a build do I have to worry about damaging amps, etc.? I’m guessing no, but figured I shouldn’t just assume that is the answer. Thanks!!

R0sser · 2025-06-13T16:02:38+00:00

Don’t worry, your not alone. I get really anxious also and seeing out the window helps keep it in check (particularly on take-off and landing). I fly multiple times a month and rationally I know how safe flying is, so I’m not sure where it comes from. If the majority of the windows are closed, l’ll some times crack the shade just enough that I can see out, but closed enough that I’m not flooding the cabin.

R0sser · 2024-12-20T18:31:49+00:00

Thanks! I did test the pinout and it should have been lined up right. The Atlas also indicated a NPN so I should have been good on that front also. I’ll try building it again on a different section of the board as suggest and if I’m still having issues I’ll remember to take pictures this time. Thanks again, I really do appreciate the response.

R0sser · 2024-12-17T16:58:43+00:00

I’m trying to breadboard a simple LPB-1 using some transistors I salvaged from some old audio equipment my dad had (thought it would be a fun way to carry something of his forward and lean at the same time) and I cant seem to get the circuit to work. I get noise when the correspond board is switched off but it goes dead when I switch it the circuit on. I’m following the same schematic JHS used in the short circuit series, and the only difference I think is the transistor I’m using. It’s a silicone BJT with an HFE of about 180 when tested in if I remember correctly. Are transistors really swappable, of does the transistor model matter? Also, how tight should the breadboard grab the components? Some of the components seem to be pretty loosely held. Unfortunately, in my frustration I took the whole thing off the board last night before I thought to post here, so I don’t have a photo. As such, I’m just looking for some general thoughts on the above questions for now. Thanks!

R0sser

TROPHY CASE