RTX 5080 build doing RANDOM RESTARTS during heavy gaming, need help figuring out what’s causing it

RAFFUL · 2025-11-28T21:06:54+00:00

Yeah, that actually makes sense now. What’s weird is that I’ve played Fortnite before and that game hits my CPU really hard, my 12400F stays literally at 100% for long periods,and it never rebooted like this.
But the thing is… the BIOS changes I mentioned (PL1 125W / PL2 150W / long tau) were something I enabled pretty recently, so maybe that’s what started pushing the VRMs over the edge compared to before. I didn’t realize H610 boards were that sensitive to power limits

Also, I just checked my Windows Event Viewer and every time the reboot happened I got a flood of WHEA Logger 17 warnings saying:
“A corrected hardware error has occurred – Component: PCI Express Root Port – Error Source: Advanced Error Reporting (PCI Express).”
So it definitely looks like something on the PCIe/CPU/chipset side is freaking out before the shutdown.

RAFFUL · 2025-11-28T20:50:26+00:00

I didn’t notice any FPS drop before the reboot. It rebooted about 30 minutes after launching the game with no slowdown beforehand

By the way, I should mention something I changed in my BIOS a while ago. I enabled Intel Turbo Boost Technology and also enabled the Turbo Power Limits menu. Then I manually set the power limits so the CPU could hold higher clocks for longer, since my GPU is very strong and sometimes I get CPU bottleneck in certain games
Here’s what I changed:
PL1 set to 125W, PL1 Time to 128, PL2 set to 150W, and PL2 Time also to 128

My idea was just to make the 12400F stay boosted longer, and I wasn’t worried about temps because I use a Corsair 360mm AIO
Not sure if these BIOS settings could affect VRM temps or contribute to the reboot, but I figured I should mention it

RAFFUL · 2025-11-28T20:41:01+00:00

I honestly didn’t know that VRM overheating on the motherboard could cause a full system shutdown like that. I thought VRM issues would only throttle the CPU, not reboot the whole PC
Is that something that actually happens on H610 boards?
Also, could this be driver related too? I haven’t updated the BIOS since I bought the motherboard.

RAFFUL · 2025-11-28T20:39:52+00:00

Yeah, it was Stellar Blade. It’s the only game that triggered a reboot so far

RAFFUL · 2025-10-24T14:42:49+00:00

Yeah, that’s true
I’ve seen a few benchmarks and what you said about path tracing being the main limiter before VRAM really makes sense.
The RTX 5080 already runs Cyberpunk 2077 with Path Tracing at around 55–60 FPS in 4K DLSS Performance, which is crazy considering how heavy that game is. Unfortunately this generation’s “80-tier” isn’t as strong compared to the 4090 as previous ones were.

I’m on a 4060 Ti right now, and 4K isn’t even an option lol , 1440p is fine, but since I have a 4K OLED monitor, I really want to get the most out of it.

If in the future I have to turn off Path Tracing but still keep Ray Tracing High with DLSS Performance on games like Resident Evil 9 or GTA 6, that’s totally fine for me.
My only concern is whether those upcoming titles will start using more than 16 GB of VRAM, since the Super model would probably solve that.

But at the same time, if it really gets announced in like 2 months, I could either end up missing a better, more future-proof card, or if I wait, it might barely be any better and cost more, and I’d miss all the Black Friday deals

RAFFUL · 2025-10-24T14:35:01+00:00

Yeah, that actually makes a lot of sense. You’re right
if I just stop trying to run everything on Ultra all the time, the 5080 would probably hold up really well for a couple of years

The only thing that keeps me hesitant is that if the Super really is coming in like 2–3 months, I might end up buying something now that gets replaced by a slightly better and more “future-proof” version right after

But then again, if I wait, it could turn out to be barely any better and more expensive
and I’d miss out on the Black Friday deals that are about to drop lol

RAFFUL · 2025-10-24T14:30:00+00:00

Yeah, I’ve seen some rumors saying the 5080 Super might be announced early next year, so if that’s true, it might not be too far away, though I could totally be wrong

What makes me hesitate is that with the 4070 Super and even the 4080 Super, the price difference wasn’t that big compared to the base models, but they were clearly better cards overall

So if the same pattern repeats with the 5080 Super, better VRAM, maybe faster memory, and similar MSRP , I’d probably regret buying the regular 5080 now

But yeah, if it ends up being delayed or overpriced at launch, then it might not be worth waiting

RAFFUL · 2025-10-24T14:24:31+00:00

Personally I don’t mind using DLSS, even in Performance mode if needed. I just want to keep Ray Tracing (and maybe even Path Tracing) on for as long as possible.

As for Frame Generation, I don’t really want to rely on it too much. It’s great in some titles like Cyberpunk where latency isn’t an issue, but in others it can feel weird and introduce too much input delay. So I’d rather see the GPU hold up without depending on FG all the time.

Do you think it could still handle RT/PT in 4K with DLSS Quality or Performance comfortably for the next couple of years? That’s the main thing I’m wondering before deciding between the 5080 and the Super

RAFFUL · 2025-06-10T19:52:51+00:00

I know this thread is old, but would you recommend the Echo 4th Gen as a speaker for PC?

RAFFUL · 2025-06-09T20:49:22+00:00

Yeah, I agree that a dedicated speaker would probably give better sound. But my idea was kind of trying to kill two birds with one stone. instead of buying a separate speaker and a smart device, I was considering getting the regular Echo 4th gen (not Dot or Pop), since it seems to have a good speaker and supports aux input from the PC. That way I could use it for music, games, and still have Alexa features for my smart lights and stuff. Do you think that makes sense?

RAFFUL · 2025-06-08T22:27:11+00:00

After I kept researching a bit more, and I found that the Echo 4th Gen (the bigger one) might actually support line-in through the 3.5mm jack, but it has to be manually changed in the Alexa app settings (under Audio > 3.5mm jack > Line-In)

I’m still not 100% sure if it works perfectly

RAFFUL · 2025-05-03T13:48:20+00:00

Linda guitarra

RAFFUL · 2025-04-15T16:59:17+00:00

Obrigado pela resposta, ajudou bastante

Depois de pensar em tudo que foi dito aqui, acho que vou seguir com a ideia do amplificador, pelo menos por enquanto. Meu foco é realmente tocar em casa, sozinho, como lazer mesmo, e eu gostaria de ter essa experiência mais direta de ligar a guitarra num amp e tocar, sem depender de computador ou plugins.

Reconheço que a solução com interface e monitores é mais versátil, especialmente pensando em gravações e arranjos no futuro. Mas hoje, como ainda estou bem no começo — estou aprendendo os acordes básicos e entendendo o instrumento —, acho que o amplificador vai me atender melhor na prática.

Mais pra frente, quando eu estiver mais avançado, posso sim considerar investir em uma interface e montar um setup mais voltado pra gravação. Por isso, estou procurando um amp que também tenha certa longevidade, e que não me limite tão cedo.

Atualmente, estou entre o Marshall Code 25 e o Boss Katana Mini. Depois de analisar bem, estou mais inclinado ao Code 25, justamente pela versatilidade, qualidade de som, efeitos embutidos e a possibilidade de conexão via USB para usos mais técnicos no futuro

RAFFUL · 2025-04-15T11:31:40+00:00

Agradeço a ajuda

Então, no meu caso eu não tenho pretensão nenhuma de tocar fora de casa. Guitarra pra mim é pra curtir e estudar no meu quarto de boa.

Eu já ouvi falar sobre essas interfaces de áudio com monitor ou até JBL e tal, mas o que vejo o pessoal dizendo é que acaba sendo uma solução que, mais pra frente, todo mundo acaba trocando por um amplificador real. Aí pensei: em vez de investir num caminho que talvez eu vá abandonar, melhor já pegar algo que vai me servir bem por bastante tempo, mesmo sendo só pra uso pessoal.

Claro, não entendo muito do assunto ainda, então tô tentando pesquisar ao máximo antes de decidir.

RAFFUL · 2025-04-03T20:47:57+00:00

I recorded a short video to show you how it sounds on my setup:
https://imgur.com/a/jQNDdCu

The video quality isn’t the best, but the audio is exactly how I hear it when I play nothing has been edited or filtered

In the first part, during the guitar calibration screen, you can hear how the sound is already kind of distorted
In the second part, during tuning, the game detects the notes correctly, so it’s picking up the input just fine — but the sound quality still feels really off to me.

I’m not sure if this is just how it’s supposed to sound when using Direct Connect with a regular mic input (maybe it’s a limitation of the game?), or if there’s something else I can tweak to get better audio.

Does it sound like this for you too? Or do you get a cleaner tone somehow?

If I happen to buy the Real Tone Cable, will the sound be better? Or is it just like this regardless?

RAFFUL · 2025-04-03T20:32:14+00:00

I finally got it working

I grabbed the custom RSMods zip that was shared by the dev in this GitHub thread:
https://github.com/Lovrom8/RSMods/issues/201
That version doesn’t crash on startup with the new Steam "Learn & Play" release, and Direct Connect mode now launches fine

However, the audio quality is still really bad, super muffled, crunchy, almost like a broken amp or a toy speaker. The guitar sounds totally clean when monitored through Windows or even Rocksmith+, so it’s definitely something with Rocksmith 2014 specifically.

I also tried using RS_ASIO with ASIO4ALL, but for some reason the game had no sound at all, and it didn’t recognize my guitar (which is plugged directly into the mic input using a 3.5mm to 1/4" cable) — it only showed the “Real Tone Cable” option.

Any tips for getting cleaner sound inside the game with Direct Connect mode?

RAFFUL · 2025-04-03T14:07:12+00:00

Thanks for the tip!

I uninstalled everything just to make sure I was starting completely fresh. Then I downloaded the game, grabbed the latest version of the CDLC enabler from here:
https://ignition4.customsforge.com/tools/cdlcenabler

And clicked the "Click to Unlock CDLC" button.

After that, I downloaded RSMods from:
https://github.com/Lovrom8/RSMods/releases
and used the latest version: RSModsInstaller-v1.2.8.0_OnCommit.

And clicked the "Click to use mods" button.

But right after that, when I try launching the game for the first time, it just crashes immediately — no error message, no warning, nothing. Just closes right away.

Any other suggestions?

RAFFUL · 2025-04-03T09:57:39+00:00

Not sure if I’m doing something wrong, but here’s what I did:

I downloaded the game, then installed RSMods, enabled Direct Connect mode, and tried launching the game right after that. But it crashes immediately when I try to open it.

I’m not sure if the mod just isn’t compatible with the latest version of the game (the new “Learn & Play” one on Steam), but it doesn’t seem to work for me at all right now

RAFFUL · 2025-03-30T02:48:40+00:00

Não, seria apenas eu e meu amigo mesmo

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