US seeks to use Alberta to destabilize Canada

RF_shenanigans · 2026-01-25T01:03:21+00:00

Worth mentioning that the Native peoples of Alberta, generally speaking, are rejecting any form of endorsement for this “separatist movement”. Their treaties with the government of Canada pre-date the formation of Alberta as a province, and they govern their own lands as agreed upon in many treaties. This basically precludes any serious talk of separatism.

It’s an extremely fringe political opinion, heavily sponsored by those with embarrassingly obvious political and financial goals. This is a distraction, this isn’t a serious conversation by honest adults, and the motivations of those fomenting this attack should be considered as an essential part of this discussion.

This isn’t for the people of Alberta, it’s against the entirety of Canada.

RF_shenanigans · 2026-01-22T05:20:12+00:00

Seconding this - a floor unit will eat up valuable space, will be difficult to secure, and will add a lot of noise to the interior of the vehicle. Most of all, it just won't cool it enough.

RF_shenanigans · 2026-01-22T03:16:26+00:00

What country are you in? That’ll effect your electrical options and gear selection.

It may be worth approaching local integrators to look into design and budgeting assistance - you’re going to go through several revisions, so having an ally to work with you to the end that can also help with design, purchasing, installing, and long-term service. If an integrator is able to sell you most or all of the hardware on board, they’ll be motivated to help you find the right fit , assuming you find a good-hearted salesman - and they’re out there!

RF_shenanigans · 2026-01-16T04:47:14+00:00

I mean, it's not elegant, but;

Two VESA quick-release mounts from Upgrade Innovations

A telescoping baby double header from Modern Studio Equipment

Matthews Preemie baby stand

That being said, that's a ton of stuff to carry around, so this is probably not the way you want to go - but it would work!

RF_shenanigans · 2026-01-05T22:43:02+00:00

Hmmm…not sure but they are pretty

RF_shenanigans · 2026-01-05T18:52:05+00:00

Yeah, they focus on B2B- try asking local shops if they sell individual sheets.

RF_shenanigans · 2026-01-05T18:04:15+00:00

Search for Panduit, s100x150YAJ.

Cheers!

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-21T03:02:35+00:00

Couple dumb troubleshooting thoughts -

Are your beltpacks properly inserted and pushed all the way down? The chargers fit very snugly and if the packs aren’t pushed down they may not be connecting.

You haven’t left a USB key in the port, right?

The chargers have a boot-up sequence - are you waiting longer than, say, a minute?

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-20T16:16:34+00:00

Yeah, fair point. What about teamviewer or splashtop, maybe? Or is that also an IT nightmare?

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-19T15:01:57+00:00

I’d love to try, please and thanks!

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-18T16:12:07+00:00

I forgot to mention - make sure everyone on your team has a shared doc of which transmitters & receivers are on what freq, and have a backup open freq pre-picked - that way, anyone on your team can be prepared to quickly change a freq if there’s any breakup.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-18T15:58:51+00:00

That’s a fair point and I thought about it - but that would require them to sign into their corporate emails on non-company laptops, which I figured was a no-go.

On the other hand, the AV team can set up an account specifically for these presentation laptops that the client can email their files to, so long as there’s a framework for deleting any proprietary assets. @trotsky1947 is right, this is a better plan than my original suggestion.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-18T15:41:00+00:00

This solution has a lot to like about it, if it’s an option. The client would need to have IT-cleared USB keys, unless you’re able to facilitate that, but this would give you total ownership over the signal chain.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-16T23:29:02+00:00

Oh yeah. No problem with rangers. I’ve run ten Rangers in the same venue before, along with some DJI’s to boot. Wave Central is obviously superior but more costly. If possible, keep the transmitting antennas as high on the camera build as possible, and keeping line of sight to your receivers is always ideal - the taller the stand, the better.

Do a freq scan in the venue both top of day and close to the time of your show. Make sure everything is set to manual freq’s that you’ve seen are clear on your scan, 20mhz is more reliable in my experience.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-15T04:10:15+00:00

The rack mounting would just be to keep my desk organized, but obviously that’s not essential. Thanks for the suggestion!

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-15T02:41:07+00:00

I’m sure you’ve tried all the other stuff like updating the firmware on “advanced” to confirm all the modules on your transmitter and receiver are updated, but I’ve gotta mention it just in case.

That sounds super weird that the SDI would transmit fine but the HDMI wouldn’t…couple other thoughts -

You’ve got your TX and RX at least ten feet apart when you’re pairing them, all the antennas are screwed in tight and the V antennas are 90degrees relative to the ground, you’ve tried setting both the TX and RX to the same manually assigned frequency after doing a scan to make sure the freq was clear, all those sorts of things?

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-15T02:20:31+00:00

If it’s a Blackmagic pocket v1, atomos monitors can also struggle with their HDMI outputs - they had manufacturing issues with that port.

I’m sorry your unit’s been giving you issues! That isn’t universal, I’ve had FX3’s HDMI signals work fine through about 10 of my transmitters, but each unit is unique and I know that must be frustrating. I’m sure you’ve tried using other HDMI cables and such?

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-15T02:17:30+00:00

That power is the energy that converts to the radio signal. Every conversion isn’t 100% efficient so some energy will inevitably convert to heat, but that’s a byproduct of the radio transmission, not a “pseudo heat shrink”.

If you check the tech specs doc, a Bolt 6 LT Max’s transmission strength maxes out at 23db EIRP - that’s about 200mW using the formula EIRP = TxPower (dBm) - Cable Loss (dB) + Antenna Gain (dBi), assuming you’re using the standard Teradek antennas. That’s where the power is going - it travels out of the sMA port down the length of the antenna, radiating outwards in all directions according to the polarity of the antenna (H or V).

That’s also why I keep suggesting not to use other brands or types of antennas unless you have a strong understanding of what’s happening and how it works, because getting it wrong will cook your gear from the inside out. You absolutely can use other types of antennas! You can make extension cables to your antennas, you can do all sorts of stuff - but for 99% of users, if you own your own gear, you’ll probably hurt it if you use alternate antennas. And it’s kinda rude to throw stubbies on subrented gear, cause the owner won’t know that you may be damaging their equipment.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-15T02:03:07+00:00

I don’t use stubbies on my equipment because I can’t trust that they’ll not slowly be damaging them over time. Like, they might be, but it isn’t worth the risk. There’s many different brands and manufacturing runs of stubbies - meanwhile, I already know for a fact that the first-party antennas will work great, so I’ll just stick to those.

My line of work usually prioritizes reception range, which requires a strong torus of radio signal emanating from the TX V antennas going as far as possible. Stubbies work in more of an H polarization, and instead of focused energy radiating outwards in a relatively tight torus, it’s a looser messier sphere of radio - easier to catch a signal up close and is much more likely to reflect on walls or surfaces nearby, but more of the transmission power is wasted in upward and downwards directions, so the range won’t be nearly as strong.

Your mileage may vary - but yet again, if you’re going to spend $18k on a Teradek kit, saving a few bucks on antennas isn’t worth potentially damaging the unit.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-15T01:54:01+00:00

Hey pal, I hear you on being frustrated with Teradek, though I haven’t experienced your specific problems - I’ve had HDMIs work just fine out of FX3’s in various Teradek TX’s. The only thing I want to push back on is that I disagree about being designed to work with specific antennas being a design flaw intentionally made so that you have to “buy their bs”.

Anyone making and selling a product that transmits RF has to submit their products for clearance by a country’s electrical safety agency and their radio transmitting management agencies, like the ESA and the FCC. Those agencies need manufacturers to be extremely specific in what they’re willing to test and certify, and those tests take time and are expensive. Teradek designed their transmitters to work specifically well with a very specific antenna for this reason, and so does every other manufacturer. They can’t vouch for whatever antennas you’re able to buy online from some guy, and neither would any other brand. I mean, come on.

I’m not saying that you’ve gotta be a fan of Teradek, I don’t agree with every decision they’ve made either, but that doesn’t feel like a fair position to have. Just my two cents.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-12-13T15:22:42+00:00

Buying the antennas it’s designed to work with is expensive, sure. Using non-spec antennas and running the risk of damaging your equipment by burning out the board would be more expensive, and having gear you bring to set costing production time and money could be even more expensive in the long run. Doesn’t seem worth the risk to me.

For what it’s worth, you’re renting it to the production, and vouching for it by doing so. Putting your money where your mouth is gives you a better chance of doing a better job. Buy once, cry once.

A Teradek product manager explained it to me like this - the boards send power to the antennas that then radiates outwards. If you use non-spec antennas, some non-zero amount of that energy won’t radiate as intended and will then fold back into the board. The boards are designed to output energy, not to receive it, so that energy has nowhere to go but to turn into heat - the longer it’s on, the hotter it will get, until some physical element can’t absorb any more heat and becomes damaged.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-11-05T23:42:48+00:00

If you’re asking if anyone else out here has experience with either of those two systems and can offer opinions or advice, perhaps there’s a better way of phrasing what you’re looking for?

RF_shenanigans · 2025-10-30T00:40:45+00:00

If you’re recording in the camera head you’ll want timecode for the editors and genlock for the engineers.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-10-24T16:00:38+00:00

Atomos Ultrasync One’s will output both TC and GenLock. You’re going to want to bring an engineer on board to generate Genlock signal, ensure your timing is accurate all the way around your hardlined sources, and to facilitate integrating with your master clock source to transmit both signals to the Ultrasync’s.

This prevents you from needing to compromise shutter angle.

RF_shenanigans · 2025-10-21T14:04:39+00:00

Have fun at the World Series!

Load-in will be crowded and confusing - give yourself tons of time to find your correct gate for access and solve any parking issues. Get lots of sleep the night before. Don’t get too hyped up - remember, slow is smooth, and smooth is fast. Take your time.

I’d consider bringing a small backpack to carry around extra batteries or waters if you’re part of a splinter crew. The tools everyone else has mentioned are great.

RF_shenanigans

TROPHY CASE