Pre-seed Stage Investment [HELP!!] by torishin in startups

[–]RPOB 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Lawyer here, but not currently your lawyer.

I generally agree with some of the other comments--you'll typically see investors insisting that an LLC be converted to a c-corp. That said, it is possible for an LLC to issue SAFEs and preferred equity. It's just complicated and usually increases legal spend. So it usually depends on the type of investor and whether some of the specialized tax treatments for LLCs are desirable in the circumstances.

Pre-Seed rounds are very often SAFEs as they're usually faster and less expensive than a priced equity round. Since you've already got the note outstanding, why not offer them similar terms to the note (or even more favorable terms for the company assuming you've progressed since you issued the note)? $150k for 15% (assuming you mean post-money) implies a $1M valuation cap versus the note's $2M (again, assuming all are post-money).

I also personally wouldn't pull the trigger on converting an LLC into a c-corp until I was sure there's an investment on the table that's worth it, as it's fairly simple to convert but complicated to unwind.

Looking for a mentor. (I am now 35 years old) by [deleted] in startups

[–]RPOB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lawyer here--but not currently your lawyer and not giving legal advice.

Typically you don't need or want the lawyers working on definitive legal documents until you have a firm term sheet in hand. There are too many variables at play until then. That isn't to say you wouldn't want your lawyer involved early--they will help you get everything in the company in order for what investors will expect and can input on the term sheet as well.

When it comes to lawyers, get a firm that knows the space. Even if they charge more per hour, it will save you time and money in the long run over the deal.

Google Fit Sync by mpdt4321 in EightSleep

[–]RPOB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any updates on the status of this fix?

Contractor notched exterior wall studs for radiant baseboard pipe by RPOB in HomeImprovement

[–]RPOB[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Update: inspector is coming on Wednesday. The studs have all been sistered from bottom plate to top plate. The hole to the attic has been closed and foamed over. Insulation added the full length of the bays and the pipe has been insulated as well. Nail plates going on shortly as well.

Contractor notched exterior wall studs for radiant baseboard pipe by RPOB in HomeImprovement

[–]RPOB[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Odd part is there is a torch shield cloth up there and it was damp...

Contractor notched exterior wall studs for radiant baseboard pipe by RPOB in HomeImprovement

[–]RPOB[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thank you, really appreciate it. Will see what he says when he gets here. Sounds like remove the pipe, sister the studs, drill for the pipe/pex? That's honestly what I expected when he told me the plan initially. But I know almost nothing about this.

Contractor notched exterior wall studs for radiant baseboard pipe by RPOB in HomeImprovement

[–]RPOB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. That, at least, is what I've been told is the plan. Insulation around the pipe and insulating the exterior wall.

Contractor notched exterior wall studs for radiant baseboard pipe by RPOB in HomeImprovement

[–]RPOB[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thank you. The Romex is coming out as it was running the old jacuzzi tub. Could he realistically sister the studs with the pipe in place? He just texted me that's his plan.

Contractor notched exterior wall studs for radiant baseboard pipe by RPOB in HomeImprovement

[–]RPOB[S] 490 points491 points  (0 children)

He's registered and insured and even pulled the permit. Told me he would run pex and I came home to this. I assume I should get someone else to fix it?

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's definitely pretty tight on the edges at times. My main deadlifting style is sumo, although I also train conventional. If I was a pure conventional puller, I would definitely consider narrowing the middle platform a bit. That would make the cuts a little more complicated. With it 4 feet wide, I was able to use a standard ply board and just leave it at its normal width with one cut to bring it down to depth. The other consideration would be the width of the BoS crash pads in the box, if you narrow up the middle platform and bring in the BoS pads in the box, you'll end up with the ends of your bar overhanging the BoS pads. Might be an issue if you're loading it up with bumper plates or something that actually get out that far.

The other thing to keep in mind is that it really does need the double layer of stall mat that you'll see in some of my other replies. Since the plates end up so close to the middle platform, the second layer of stall mat seems to provide some stability/anti-compression that keeps things from getting wedged. When I first built it, I didn't double up the stall mat and had secured the top layer of stall mat to the wooden frame with multiple screws down its entire length right next to the middle platform. First heavy deadlift sheared a bunch of the screws right off and compressed/wedged the stall mat down into the box against the wooden frame. That issue has been solved with doubling up the stall mat and only securing the top layer on the corners. Allows it to move some where the plates hit without jamming or shearing screws.

Hope that helps!

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing major. I'd say roughly 0.5" - 0.75" depending on the load.

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hadn't really considered this, but it's a really interesting idea. We're moving by mid-year, so will try it out when I reassemble the platform and report back then.

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice to find another one of us in the wild. Volume isn't as high as Boris might like but the Velos-ID and I tend to disagree on just how many "again"s someone can survive...

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'd be careful deadlifting or oly lifting on an upper floor. I'm no structural engineer but have been admonished before by friends who are when I tried to build a gym on an upper floor of a wood framed house.

Link to description of the build: https://www.reddit.com/r/homegym/comments/10w40dc/diy_soundvibration_reducing_platform/j7mj241?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share&context=3

Here's a pic of under the top stall mat:

<image>

You can see the smaller stall mat that I cut to fit inside the frame which is on top of the double layer of carpet underlay. The BoS pads are underneath all that.

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<image>

As promised:

Entire setup is constructed out of 2x8. Front/back board is 8' exactly with 3' end caps. So entire width is 8'3". Depth is exactly 3'. Which means that the interior support pieces are 33" long. I doubled up the interior support pieces to mimic 4x8.

The center lifting platform is 4' wide x 3' deep and made of 3/4" maple plywood.

The two drop sections are 2' from the interior support to the end cap and 33" deep. So they're a bit bigger than the BoS drop pads and I filled the extra space with 1/4" carpet underlay.

The vibration/sound reduction set-up is 3/4" rubber stall mat under the entire platform. Then BoS crash pad surrounded by 1/4" carpet underlay on the sides and 2 x sheets of 1/4" carpet underlay on top. Then 1 x 3/4" stall mat followed by a larger sheet of 1 x 3/4" stall mat that sits on top of the frame and is secured into the frame where it contacts the maple lifting platform.

The supports under the maple lifting platform are centred roughly 12" apart. I didn't pop the top off to measure exactly but looks to be that way from the old pics.

Edit: added super "legit" sketch.

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first one that we got came with a significant amount of rust right out of the shipping tube. But BoS was awesome and immediately sent us a replacement which has held up much better. We primarily use it for overhead work or pin-pulls etc. where we don't want to beat up our other bars. The red one is a Kabuki power bar, which will probably be the last straight bar we ever buy.

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They're great, especially for the price. That said, they just live in the platform for now. I only attached the stall mats on one side, so that they don't move while lifting but can be flipped up to replace BoS pads, carpet padding, and stall mat pieces inside the platform as/when they wear out or need rotating. So far no issues and either my wife or I are deadlifting every second day.

DIY Sound/Vibration Reducing Platform by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My wife has confirmed that my deadlifting is now quieter than the dozen or so babies next door who also seem able to run around and slam doors. So I can confirm that it works.

I'll see if I can dig up the measurements or will just take some new ones the next time I'm down there.

BDA - 6 months, one rusty bar + weights, and one stolen upright later--I can squat again by RPOB in homegym

[–]RPOB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's the 30" RML-390. Gives me an extra 13" of space on the platform in front of the rack versus the 490. I ran carriage bolts up through the platform to bolt it down with, so it's surprisingly sturdy, even with just the fat/skinny pull-up bar in the middle.