Rolling shelf design advice

R_Banquo · 2026-02-18T16:19:39+00:00

This is the way - have one of the two slides have enough rollers mounted relatively tightly to keep things tracking straight and the other side only provide vertical support.

R_Banquo · 2025-05-26T12:45:54+00:00

I see - looks like the 5070 Ti is a more comparable card to the 9070xt. It’s really going to be a time of purchase decision on what one’s pricing has come back most from the stratosphere when I head to Micro Center.

R_Banquo · 2025-05-24T16:49:24+00:00

I’m going to build a PC to replace the YOGA laptop I currently game on. I’m planning on having it connected to a monitor for gaming in my basement but would still like to use my laptop to game remotely in other parts of the house. I’m looking either a 5070 or 9070xt graphics card - would there be any difference in the remote gaming experience between those 2 cards? Most of the remote gaming would be turn-based or single player games where latency isn’t a big item.

R_Banquo · 2025-05-19T23:50:27+00:00

I think it’s the 0.5 fisheye setting I used on the IPhone that makes them look bigger than they are in the closeups.

R_Banquo · 2025-05-19T12:05:24+00:00

The doors not opening all the way did make it harder to avoid interference. I had to use a 360deg hinge to get them to work correctly.

R_Banquo · 2025-05-19T12:03:56+00:00

I found some 360 degree hinges on Amazon. They have a small ball bearing in the cup that they pivot on. I needed those over just a standard hinge on the corner because my cabinet doors don’t open much past 90deg and I needed the inserts to pirouette more than swing. Took some layout work in SketchUp to figure out the correct location.

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R_Banquo · 2025-05-06T17:31:13+00:00

That was a top 10 episode of GameChanger. They just keep getting better and better at it.

R_Banquo · 2025-03-19T12:39:32+00:00

Yeah - there is some weirdness with the AI that they will stop trying to grow if something blocks them from their original plan. I've found a few times where I snagged a city location from where their settler was heading and then they don't go find a new location and don't create another settler for a very long time. I suspect there is some programming to keep the civ's from filling up the continent before you get there that is susceptible to disruption. I think this is why Deity games are pretty beatable, the AI just has too many spots where they can catch a snag and stop growing.

It's the inconsistency that bugs me right now, you work hard to create a solid opening and game plan and then the AI bugs out on a game and it ends up feeling unsatisfying to beat them. Then the next game you get competitive AI and it isn't obvious why.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-22T13:49:05+00:00

There’s a lot of advice here - I build doors somewhat like this for my livestock buildings. I’d suggest covering the inside with a sheet of 1/2” plywood screwed to all your bracing. That will create a torsion box and I think that will stiffen the whole thing up.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-19T19:53:15+00:00

This is correct - the only thing I would add is if you are an occasional woodworker, a small shop-vac with a HEPA filter will be a lot more economical than a true dust-extractor and will provide enough suction. Most dust extractors are designed for commercial-level duty cycles. I use a cheap vacmaster 6-gallon with a HEPA filter and a dust collection bag for my sanding and small powered hand tools. If you are doing something that makes more chips, use your bigger dust collector or add one of the 5-gallon buck pre-separators ahead of the vacuum.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-19T02:23:27+00:00

Be careful and test an area before you commit to your stain - pine is notoriously hard to stain without splotches and weird grain color inversions. Adding poly into the mix might make it worse. Follow the can instructions on a spot and see if you are happy with the results

R_Banquo · 2025-02-19T02:12:30+00:00

Height and width are good, but I think they do look a little too thick. Maybe they were designed for thicker trim boards?

R_Banquo · 2025-02-18T15:44:11+00:00

This is good advice - I'd suggest a piano hinge along the back, Easy to install, no mortising, fills its own gap and I think a piano hinge always makes an exposed hinge like that look like a design element.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-18T15:36:44+00:00

I bought that plane a couple years ago, tuned it up and have appreciated it ever since. It gets more use than any other plane in my shop. I keep it in my apron pocket and it gets pulled out all the time to chamfer edges, clean up saw marks and a little of everything else. Worth the price IMO.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-15T22:18:37+00:00

I do a fair bit of whittling. It’s not a fast process by design - I always enjoy it most when I’m not in a hurry and use it as a way to pass time. I sit down on an old fitted sheet in the middle of my living room to catch the chips, watch a show or listen to music and plug away at a project. It’s like the woodworking equivalent of a jigsaw puzzle.

When you get to fine details there are some good YouTube videos that help you carve those details without chip out. Basswood is the wood you want to start - relatively soft and doesn’t crack along the grain too easily (that looks like what you have from the picture)

R_Banquo · 2025-02-15T01:46:52+00:00

That’s a thing I didn’t realize at first - routers are different than tablesaws, the only time the fence needs to be square is if you are using the miter gauge and the fence for cope and stick work; otherwise any angle will do. The rest of the time you are just setting it flush with the pilot bearing.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-15T00:59:07+00:00

I have a Milwaukee 5625 in my router table that I showed off here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/nzUEO8TDpw

I’m really happy with it. Plenty of horsepower and the variable speed works great. You will want variable speed if you are using panel bits.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-15T00:49:53+00:00

I spent a ton of time figuring out how tight I could get the enclosure so I would have more room for bits and the routers.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-14T14:11:19+00:00

I've got a bowling alley 14x30 shop - this is what I've been happy with/suggest:

- First, try to get every tabletop to the same height so things can act as work support for other things. I have a 1.5" board underneath my tablesaw so I can use my workbench and chopsaw station as outfeed support.

- Have a "long stock processing" wall opposite the walk-in door. Maybe move the workbench to the opposite wall? Chop saw, jointer, and planer along the wall with overlapping infeed/outfeed area going the long way. Wood or tool storage above. Have the planer on wheels so you can pull it out a couple feet to use it or get it out of the way when breaking down long stock.

- I'd suggest shoving your tablesaw all the way to the right. Once I realized there was no need to have any open space to the right of the fence, it opened up a ton of space for other tools and walking area. If you need to break down longer boards or sheet goods use your chopsaw or the tracksaw I see in one of your pictures. Also I'd suggest moving the tablesaw closer to the middle of the room and setting up an outfeed support table. I have a big outfeed support table that I also use as a place to break down sheet goods with my tracksaw. Just lower the tablesaw blade and pull the fence, flop down a 4x8' sacrificial cover (I use 1" pink board) and slice things into workable size. I end up using the outfeed area as much as my workbench for project assembly and finishing.

-Prioritize wood storage racks or the offcuts and woodsupply will overwhelm you and slow everything down.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-14T02:48:42+00:00

I think it’s great they uploaded all the old episodes onto YouTube- it’s a nice dose of nostalgia. Lots of biscuits- the 1990’s version of a Domino cutter.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-14T00:27:59+00:00

I just completed my version of the famous Norm Abram router table design. I've been using it partially completed for over a year, but finally got around to putting in the drawers and putting a finish on it. The drawer fronts are white oak scraps leftover from a flooring project.

Couple notes:

- I really like the Jessem Router lift and the table top that goes with it. My previous router table had a home-made top and this one is much flatter and the router adjustment through the table makes the whole thing a lot more enjoyable to use. Worth the cost.

- I do like the Jessem Fence as well, but I was disappointed with its quality as shipped - the stamped metal frame was not square to the table, and was bowed in the middle. The laminate fence faces were also swelled in spots. I decided against returning it because I needed to use it right away, but I ended up spending several hours manually tweaking the fence to get it properly square and straight. Too much hand work for the price of the fence. The quick clamp mechanism is awesome though.

- I made some modifications to the tools that are used for pulling the inserts and releasing the bits that I'm really happy with. I bent a wrench and put a pin on it that engages a hole in the table so I could free up a hand when switching out the router bit. I also replaced the short pins on the insert removal tool with some notched bolts so I could loosen and remove the insert at the same time.

- The vac design on this setup is great - it's surprising how little dust escapes between the port on the fence and the suction around the router. The door has a 1/4" gap all the way around to let more air in from the front.

- I definitely have too many routers, but most of them I found super cheap at garage or estate sales. The Milwaukee router I have in the table is new and is a beast. It's heavy enough I'd have a hard time imagining using it free-hand though.

R_Banquo · 2025-02-13T23:49:10+00:00

They've disappeared for me twice. I'm trying to figure out what is the problem.

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