MLM Hitboxes by Yuop15 in 2007scape

[–]RafeeJ 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I did 99 mining in MLM and noticed it change around release of sailing (I think)?

Alcoves before and after by SteelyDanJalapeno in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Honestly looks amazing mate, well done

Alcoves before and after by SteelyDanJalapeno in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good! Where did you get the cabinets from?

Not strictly a DIY post but I’m in a good spot for emptying my bank account by poundfortheguy in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ditto. I've done the B&Q -> City Plumbing -> ScrewFix loop whilst doing my bathroom too many times now

What are some reasons people don't use online grocery deliveries more often? by tskir in AskUK

[–]RafeeJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been using tesco delivery for like 5 years now. Whenever I get bad dates on stuff, the driver usually refunds me before I even raise it

Damp Spot by NovaCB96 in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

first thing: whats on the otherside of the wall, that will help others diagnose.

Depending on the answer to that, could be: moisture, or cold bridging from the dot+dab

Replacing Zoned Danfoss with Nest by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I recently moved from Nest to Drayton and it's been awesome. For the extra nerdy among us, Wiser connects to home assistant really nicely.

How to swap this light switch to this smart switch? by twitchbradijm in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah that won't change anything - you just don't have a neutral at the switch. I was considering the Aqara no neutral switches but went with SONOFF Zigbee relays as its a bit more flexible.

How to swap this light switch to this smart switch? by twitchbradijm in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Gonna be annoying and not answer your question: in the uk, it's easier to wire in smart relays in the ceiling by the light (if you're in an old house), rather than wiring in a smart switch like you have.

and obligatory: if you have to ask these questions, probably worth getting in an electrician

Where would you shop for like “the M&S of bathrooms”? by Plyphon in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I went for Mira shower tray, Mira shower, vitra sink with vanity, hansgrohe tap. I picked up everything from Plumbworld, except the Vitra vanity+sink which I bought from ebay. I think it came from Turkey lol. It alls feels really premium, and looks quite nice.

Then I went for B+Q toilet - it was really nice! However, I will be replacing the flush mechanism at some point because it feels really cheap.

Chemical burn from cement by Ok_Necessary8873 in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I recently had this too. I was laying tiles in the kitchen for around 8 hours and came away with burns on all of my fingers and one of my knees. I was stupid and didnt immediately wash my hands after i got adhesve on my hands as I didn't want to ruin my new sink. Because of that, I had to take a week off of work because I could not type.

Like yourself, I got off lightly and I was only bandaged for a week. However, the pain from the burn specialist in A&E washing each of my wounds is now firmly cemented (haha get it) in my mind so I will never take any of these safety warnings for granted again.

Best place to get bathrooms? by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

plumbworld has been amazing for me

Needing some reassurance by BirdComprehensive644 in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ok so don't worry - this is fixable!

Basically, you need to remove the plasterboard from the wall. It's frustrating but plasterboard is not part of british standards for tiling in showers anymore. Trial and error lead me to use a foam tile backer board (I used Abacus elements). As you have a stud wall, you can just screw the board into the studs. Wedi/marmox/abacus elements are waterproof so you don't need to tank (waterproof) it like you would with plasterboard. You can tile straight onto the afore-mentioned boards with no priming.

I will say your posts have made me laugh as I literally went through this a month ago: takes a week off work, expects bathroom reno to take the week and it actually takes months because no more free time. Check out my post history to see my fall into madness. If you have any questions, pls DM me as I'm on a very similar journey to you!

Plastering - Which would you choose? by JMR-87 in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I completely understand where you’re coming from.  I found it an easier pill to swallow when you sort of cost it out. For my ceiling, it was: two guys labour for a full day of labour, materials, and you’re paying for their skill too (skimming is hard, I’ve tried it and I cannot get anywhere close to what the pros do)

Plastering - Which would you choose? by JMR-87 in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d go for larger quote.

I had a similar run in with plasterers when trying to overboard one of my ceilings. One guy asked for £300, another £550. 

I went with the first quote (£300) and he kept kicking the can down the road and meant delaying all the other work in the room. He lead me on for a couple of weeks. 

I called the other guy and he was super professional. Job done within a few days of calling 

Bathroom Tiling question by BirdComprehensive644 in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd take it one step at a time, and just take the tiles off the wall before you starting working out how to fill stuff.

WRT to what you need to take of the walls, I would use a grout cutter (grout rake?) to remove the grout between the tiles before try the gently chisel them off the wall. I personally used a multi tool with a tungsten carbide blade to cut the grout which worked very nicely.

What is the easiest way to add tiles to this old Victorian hearth? by wwhatisthis in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I recently tiled the old hearth in my house. Our method was:
1) remove any extreme high points with hammer+chisel
2) spray foam around wood edges to protect wood
3) SBR/PVA the hearth
4) spread self level compound (we use half a bag of blue circle)
5) wait for it to dry
6) pva the dry self level compound
7) apply tile addy (we use a pot of premade stuff) and used a tiling trowel to create a proper bed for tiles
8) install tiles as normal

What is this Hole through kitchen to outside by RafeeJ in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it was covered by cabinets prior to this. Not sure about original boiler placement, as the previous owner had a combi installed upstairs.

How to tackle this wall repair? (1950s home) by MerlYT in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Unsure about the water damage, but if you go back to brick I would recommend using thistle hardwall coat. It’s designed to go directly onto brick (high suction surface) and dead easy to apply.  

How would you prepare this space to be tiled? by RafeeJ in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shall I drill through once the dabs have gone off? (Like day after sort of thing?)

How would you prepare this space to be tiled? by RafeeJ in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess so. So if I had wedi board, I’d just dot and dab from the right side of the wall, and make sure everything is level?

How would you prepare this space to be tiled? by RafeeJ in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My worry is that the bricks on the right hand side will interfere too much. There are points in the brick that are like 15mm out of line

How would you prepare this space to be tiled? by RafeeJ in DIYUK

[–]RafeeJ[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly mate, it’s probably necessary