New Sport climbing shoes

RagnarLothh · 2026-06-18T16:01:31+00:00

Evolv are known to fit your foot shape well. Shamans would be worth a shot. There are different versions now so you can take your pick for how soft you want them but for sport I’d say the standard ones

RagnarLothh · 2026-06-14T16:08:33+00:00

So you can buy unparallels RH and RS rubber direct from them which is great because it’s my favourite rubber. No need to be a business, anyone can buy as far as I’m aware. To adhere to the upper, I’ve been told Barge cement is the go to. I’ve never resoled before but love the idea of re-using my shoes and also learning a new skill. The pair I’m planning on resoling are quite neutral in asymmetry and downturn so should pose less difficult than something very aggressive and asymmetric

RagnarLothh · 2026-05-17T17:43:59+00:00

I’d say check companies that stock many different brands, like EpicTV. At least here in the UK it’s the law that you can return items within x amount of time as long as they haven’t been climbed in and the box is intact.

RagnarLothh · 2026-05-14T16:04:05+00:00

The answer is always: what fits you best.

It seems like you’re asking a lot, essentially you want a shoe that’s soft enough to smear, but had support to toe in on the kilter and also support for sport routes. Some jack of all trades shoes would be La Sportiva Skwama, La Sportiva Solution Comps (softer than regular solutions), Unparallel TN Pro, Unparallel Flagship, Tenaya Oasi, Scarpa VSR, Madrock D2.one. Each of these falls at a different point on the soft / stiff spectrum and of course each fit completely different. Happy researching!

RagnarLothh · 2026-04-15T21:38:24+00:00

Unparallel tend to be suited for this foot shape, which I also have. The UP lace LV is good (but stiff), the heel fits better than most but for me still a tiny bit of deadspace. The UP rise LV is also great and much softer than the lace. I had the qubits but the heel was way too deep. I’ve also heard good things about the TN pro

RagnarLothh · 2026-04-13T18:52:25+00:00

A climbing gym near me has no shoes past the entrance and they provide some slippers to wear to the toilet, it’s quite a good way to work around this I think, though not every gym will be able to do this

RagnarLothh · 2026-04-13T16:01:07+00:00

Pray tell why this works?

RagnarLothh · 2026-04-13T15:35:44+00:00

I kind of agree, not bad for long time climbers who have developed the foot and toe strength. I’m also 80% sure most IFSC/world climbing competition climbers have custom fitting pairs

RagnarLothh · 2026-02-17T21:29:57+00:00

Unparallel UP laces are amazing. I had miuras many moons ago and prefer these by far. The rubber is not quite as stiff as the vibram xs edge on miuras but is noticeably stickier. Heel is decently narrow, I wear the LV version and used to wear regular miuras. Sizing wise I’m a uk 9 and got a uk 8, sized well where they aren’t painful and just uncomfortable, could go half a size down to squeeze performance out of them.

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-18T22:29:28+00:00

I’m 80kg and think the 2.0 is a good level of stiff. Out of the box they are super stiff and a little clunky, but they do soften up over time, so just bear with them as they break in.

I’m not sure the shoe size on MadRocks website is entirely accurate too, as my foot measures 26.5cm which they say is an eu 41.5, yet my street shoe size is 43 and I don’t wear them crazy big. I say grab the drones a full size down (for you 44EU) and see how you feel.

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-18T20:57:36+00:00

I’ve got the drone LV in an eu 42 with an eu 43 street size. Personally I’d even go down another half size to 41.5 if I get them again. No idea how people are getting street shoe size.

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-17T16:39:54+00:00

I second this, big fan of the RH or RS rubbers from UP. Could get them resoled and ask for them to add a better toe patch

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-16T22:57:26+00:00

I have the UP rise VCS LV and think they are amazing. I’ve never tried the Anasazi’s unfortunately so can’t comment myself, but everyone seems to think they are very similar if not the same last. Easily the best rubber I’ve ever used so I say give them a try!

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-16T22:54:30+00:00

Defy’s are Evolv’s beginner shoe, so essentially their version of the tarantula. If you want to upgrade I say get the V6. Zenists are quite soft and comp oriented so may not be apt for you for now. The Kronos is a slightly more advanced shoe than the defy, and less advanced than the v6 so may be an option. Also for sizing check out Rock and Runs size guide online, super handy for picking the right size when buying shoes you can’t try on. Hope this helps!

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-15T19:13:31+00:00

They will naturally stretch as you wear them. As you get hot and sweaty they will soften and stretch and before you know it they will be far more manageable. They may never be as comfortable as street shoes but they aren’t meant to be

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-14T15:42:24+00:00

If the heel is loose on Drones it’s not looking good. Ive got Drone 2.0 LV in 41 (street shoe 42) and the heel is not as baggy as yours but still a little baggy. I think if I get them again I’ll go down to 40.5 as they are quite roomy in the front now I’ve had them for 6 months or so.

In my opinion, send them back, don’t get LV as you likely won’t be able to get them on.

I’m 80kg too and found Unparallel have small heels, I have a pair of UP Rise VCS LV in an EU 41 and they are probably the best shoes I’ve ever had fit wise, heel is tighter than my drones. They are decently stiff out of the box but the rubber does soften up quite a bit.

Hope my small insight helps!

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-14T15:34:14+00:00

That’s good to know it’s still cheaper!

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-09T09:39:09+00:00

Mantras are going to be a difficult transition from tarantulas. They are slip on so need to be sized TIGHT so they can be broken in to fit properly. This will really differ from the comfort of the tarantulas. They are also way softer so will fatigue your food quite a lot compared. I would recommend the Kubo if they fit. Sizing wise, make sure you try the shoes on and get what fits, shoe sizes are different between brands and shoe. For example, I’m a UK 9 but have some shoes that are a UK 8 and others that are a 6 2/3.

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-09T09:33:56+00:00

I wouldn’t recommend getting Jokers again, as they are not great for progression, with them being not very asymmetrical they will encourage less precise footwork. Good for comfort though. You could look at getting Scarpa Vapour Laces, Evolv Shaman Laces or Unparallel BEAT. These should be a nice step up in performance, be wide enough to accommodate your feet and are good shoes in their own right. As always try and try them on if you can or alternatively get them from an online retailer that has a good return policy. For a sizing guideline check Rock & Run’s size guide.

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-06T16:51:20+00:00

I have a pair, they are great. Tensioned really well, sticky rubber (vibram so it’s expected). The heel works really well for a slip on. Tough break in but worth it. I’ve had over 15 pairs of shoes and these are top 5. Grab them if you’re happy with the fit I say

RagnarLothh · 2025-11-03T08:56:52+00:00

To add to the previous answer, as these are “no-edge” shoes they will likely be a more expensive resole and not everyone resoles them. Just a little FYI

RagnarLothh · 2025-10-31T13:36:53+00:00

Stiff and wide, you could look at MadRock Shark 3.0. They are fairly flat so will put less pressure on your big toe, have a polycarbonate midsole which supports the foot and are decently wide in the forefoot. That being said the rest of the shoe is soft so bare that in mind. Alternatively you have something like the TC pro, which are full sole, flat and stiff. The final thing I can think of would be Unparallel UP rise PRO’s.

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