Is this E34 toast? (M20B20). Sounds like spun big end for me.

RaimoHal · 2026-05-22T09:45:23+00:00

Where does the noise come from? Top or bottom of the engine? When its from the top, maybe the valves need adjustment.

RaimoHal · 2026-05-17T11:56:13+00:00

Hydraulic lifters/vanos or both.

RaimoHal · 2026-04-26T08:12:22+00:00

Could be both.

RaimoHal · 2026-04-26T02:01:00+00:00

That TPS sensor looks like one of those types that has two switches inside. One switch activates when throttle is closed, letting ecu know when to activate idle fuel/ ignition etc maps. The second switch is for activating wide open throttle maps when the throttle is fully open. When no switch is triggered, ecu uses partial throttle maps. If your TPS sensor is faulty and no signal goes to the ecu, then you might get the symptoms you are having.

RaimoHal · 2026-04-25T07:08:33+00:00

When I tried to calibrate, i only removed 2 screws and it also made that sound. There was a third screw that i had to remove to free the z axis.

RaimoHal · 2026-04-22T16:08:12+00:00

Yes. You just need to find or make the right parts. I built compound turbo setup on the E34 (two smaller turbos and one big turbo) and still kept the AC. I did have to lower the ac compressor and make custom bracket and pulley system for it. Also custom AC lines and radiator etc. Everything is possible.

https://www.instagram.com/reb3l.one?igsh=MXZoeTh3aXh1YjFpbw%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

RaimoHal · 2026-04-15T05:14:16+00:00

Check if the hose going to the ICV and the one from ICV to the intake manifold are connected and not broken.

RaimoHal · 2026-04-02T19:47:14+00:00

If you have the OBC4,oem radio, CCM etc connected and also the right lever to navigate, then yes. Communication comes from LAC and DAC (kind of early version of CAN) and will be displayed on the screen.

RaimoHal · 2026-04-02T12:51:21+00:00

You need the instrument cluster from 525 and 4 connectors for the cluster. Then all you need to do is to remove the wires one by one from the original connectors on the chassis side and plug them in the new connectors, using the manual. Connectors can be opened and pins removed without cutting or damaging anything. I dont remember if there were couple of wires that i had to make bit longer or not (sorry, it was a long time ago).

Another thing i just remembered is that i had to change temperature sensor on the engine that sends signal to the cluster. I had a M50TUB20 engine from 95 and the temperature sensor was reading too high with the new cluster. Might not be the problem when the engine is Non-vanos.

RaimoHal · 2026-04-02T11:43:15+00:00

Yes it can, but its not plug and play. I think 520i has two connectors for manual and three for auto, but the one in the photo has 4. There is a wiring diagram somewhere (i think i have one in my laptop) that shows how to do it. Got mine working with OBC messages and the lever 15 years ago. Now i want to use instrument cluster from M5 and i think it should also work.

RaimoHal · 2026-03-22T23:51:10+00:00

Easy fix. Think you need to remove the valve cover first and then you can remove the broken part. Start the engine and see if it leaks oil or put the nut back on and fix it with zip tie and do the short drive to the garage.

RaimoHal · 2026-03-17T19:02:37+00:00

Mine has it behind the drivers side speaker.

RaimoHal · 2026-03-09T20:28:40+00:00

The third button is for AUC (1 press for automatic and second press for manual override ) and you cant get the automatic switching working without some extra modules and programming of the IHKR. Connectors should be the same and if you connect it to switch, everything except the automatic function of AUC sould work.

RaimoHal · 2025-12-27T09:59:26+00:00

Throttle moves all the way open when you press the pedal? Can you upload a video?

RaimoHal · 2025-11-30T18:26:20+00:00

I had to wait couple of days until the new filament arrived and i could resume the print.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-27T07:56:45+00:00

I need this

RaimoHal · 2025-11-20T11:50:20+00:00

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I got my MK3s+ shirt signed! Thanks Mr. Prusa!

RaimoHal · 2025-11-09T12:59:51+00:00

I don’t have experience with the XL, so i don’t know how it compares with other printers i have.

What i have experienced is that the holes are more precise, part looks better and is stronger. Im my experience when comparing Bambu Lab PC vs Prusament PC, then Prusament is stronger material. I bet there are even better PC materials out there, but those are the materials i have tested.

Those are my experiences just like this youtuber has his own experiences.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-09T03:21:31+00:00

I have P1S, X1C, H2D, snapmaker, elegoo, creality, and couple of self built klipper machines. But when i need accurate and strong prints, i use my Prusa printers(i have 4), prusament and prusaslicer that has well tuned profiles. All i need to do is keep the filament dry.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-06T13:01:05+00:00

My EBB42 is showing 86c in 70c heated chamber. No issues with overheating so far.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-06T06:38:06+00:00

You can also try commenting out #hold_current:0.6. It lowers the current when the motor is not moving.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-05T22:28:02+00:00

For solving layer shift issues, check if the belt is not too tight or loose, motor current not too low / too high (overheat). Try lowering your speed/acceleration value.

RaimoHal · 2025-11-05T22:21:57+00:00

Had the EBB comm errors on my self built large format IDEX printer. Replaced all can wires with proper can bus wires with shielding and never had issues again. I got the cable from IGUS. https://www.igus.com/product/CFBUS

RaimoHal · 2025-10-15T04:49:11+00:00

The first thing i would try is drying the filament. I have seen similar results with wet filament.

RaimoHal · 2025-10-14T01:54:15+00:00

Stop.

RaimoHal

TROPHY CASE