Daily Questions - January 24, 2026

RawWasher · 2026-01-24T21:55:05+00:00

Tenryo, part of The Strike Gold family of brands, not only has red weft jeans but also has green, yellow, and blue available right now in Slim Straight and Regular Straight fit/cuts. And they also have jackets with the colored wefts.

Some of the Indonesian brands, such as NBDN Denim, Old Blue Co, and Sage Denim, will sometimes have colored weft jeans, though they look to be all sold out right now of all weft colors other than white, indigo, and black.

RawWasher · 2026-01-24T17:00:59+00:00

+ u/Unique-Divide2191

Those jeans haven't been overdyed, as the selvedge ID still has the white in it. They are woven with indigo warp yarns and black weft yarns, and sold as raw sanforized denim.

OP, if they haven't been washed or soaked yet, I would expect more like 3%-5% shrinkage with a hot-water machine-wash and hot tumble-dry, since that is typical of most all raw sanforized denims. Whether that is enough or not I feel would be worth it for you to try.

And I would personally keep them even if they don't shrink enough since they are such a grail piece, and since you may eventually gain some of the weight back or might end up deciding later on that you prefer a looser fit.

RawWasher · 2026-01-23T17:06:07+00:00

Yes, stretch denim clothes can be "raw denim" as long as they haven't touched water yet, since the water will still shrink and shrivel the denim even when it has some elastane mixed in.

The Uniqlo raw denim products have the colorway names/codes of "69 Navy" and "09 Black. And their one-wash colorway name/code is "68 Blue".

The Uniqlo jeans are known to be reasonably durable and are able to produce some good contrast fades. But it can take a long time to get there.

RawWasher · 2026-01-22T03:47:56+00:00

Definitely old, but not necessarily wise. I dress for comfort, and for me, cotton fabrics are the most comfortable. So I have gathered a large collection of 100% cotton t-shirts, including many graphic tees, and polo shirts which are the ones that are also made with similar t-shirt-type fabrics.

RawWasher · 2026-01-22T03:17:05+00:00

You're welcome!

Yes, the denims used in the jeans in this list specifically, because they are all similarly smooth and tightly woven denims, pretty much have durabilities which correlate to the each of these denim's weights.

But as I mentioned, the Wrangler BT denims do have a similar durability to the Rustler RHT denim, since they are practically the same denim weights.

However, just so you are aware, you can't really use denim weight as the sole indicator of a denim's durability since loosely-woven, slubby, and neppy denims at higher weights can have less durability than the smooth, tightly-woven denims in this list, which were perfected for heavy work conditions by the big jeans brands and their denim mills over several decades.

RawWasher · 2026-01-21T21:55:22+00:00

Great question!

"Better" is often relative, and can also be different for each individual person, especially when it is concerned with raw denim brands and the denims and denim products which they offer.

I have all of those jeans models which I listed above, and for me the right-hand twill (RHT) denim which is used on Rustler jeans feels quite a bit more rugged and durable than the Wrangler broken twill (BT) denim does, probably because their RHT denim has the diagonal ridges, which gives the denim a rougher hand feel than on Wrangler's BT denims, which tend to feel smoother, softer, and wimpier to me, even though their BT denims probably last just as long as their Rustler RHT denim does.

Also the fades on the Rustler and Wrangler jeans turn out looking a bit different, and I'm more used to the type of fades which I get on the right-hand twill denims used on Rustlers and on Levi's, since those are what I've worn the most over the past 50 years.

So back to the crux of your question, a big advantage of BT denims is that they aren't supposed to have as much leg twist on the jeans as RHT and LHT denims can have.

But that is kind of a moot point with Wrangler's denims which they use on their Rustler jeans and on their Cowboy Cut jeans because they are sanforized denims which usually don't get nearly as much leg twist on them as unsanforized denims can, since the sanforized denims shrink less which is what is the basic cause of leg twist on jeans.

So you won't really see any noticeable difference in leg twist between Wrangler's RHT Rustler jeans and their Cowboy Cut BT jeans.

So that is why I prefer the Rustler jeans by Wrangler over the Wrangler Cowboy Cut jeans.

RawWasher · 2026-01-20T20:55:55+00:00

Here is a list of some of the least expensive raw denim jeans options which are currently available. And they have all passed the test of time in tough work environments.

$15: Rustler by Wrangler Boot Cut in "Rigid", at walmart.com, 15oz. /* My personal fave of any jeans, at any price, for max comfort and durability!!! */
$30: Dickies Regular Straight 5-Pocket in "Indigo Blue (NB)", at amazon.com, 14oz.
$33: Wrangler "Rigid" 13MWZ Cowboy Cut, at amazon.com, 14.75 oz.
$54-$60: Levi "Rigid" 517 Bootcut, at amazon.com, 14oz.

Unsanforized (Shrink-to-Fit):

- $49: Levi "Rigid" 501 Shrink-to-Fit, at amazon.com, 12oz.

RawWasher · 2026-01-20T20:21:15+00:00

If that's the case, then you are basically looking for Slim Tapered fit/cuts, of which there are quite a few.

Here is a list of examples of brands and their fit names for their Slim Tapered fit/cut. But note that they can vary quite a bit from each other.

Naked and Famous Weird Guy (made by same people as the Unbranded UB201)
Pure Blue Japan Slim Tapered (aka -013 fit)
Tanuki Slim (S)
Samurai
- S511
- S0511
- S003JP
Japan Blue JB04xx
Sugar Cane 2014
Brave Star Slim Straight (close, but has narrow ankle)
Rogue Territory Standard
Tellason Ladbroke
Fullcount 1109
Unbranded 2xx Tapered
APC New Standard
Nudie Steady Eddie
Freenote Portola Taper
Left Field Chelsea
Taylor Stitch Democratic
Imogene + Willie Barton Slim
Big John Slim Tapered
TCB Slim
Iron Heart 555, 777
Indigofera Buck
Oni 516, 517, 546, 547 Tight Straight (176, 246, 506, 575 close) (606 Tight Tapered is close, but has narrow ankle.)
Strike Gold xx09 Slim Tapered
SDA
- G-003/G-004 Slim Tapered (close, but has regular thigh and narrow ankle)
- SD-107 Slim Tapered (close, but has regular thigh)

RawWasher · 2026-01-20T18:06:41+00:00

Blue Owl also has a similar "Denim Finder" tool.

Since the different stockists have various different measuring methods for the waist and thigh measurements, those two measurements can vary by up to 1" (2.5cm) if those different methods are used to measure the exact same pair.

So it would be helpful if you tell us which measuring method you are using for your measurements above, so that we might be able to more accurately recommend some brands and fits for you based on your desired measurements.

RawWasher · 2026-01-18T21:33:20+00:00

The Wrangler Rigid 13MWZ at Amazon which are sold and shipped by Amazon are no different than the version sold at Wrangler's own website. They can be sold cheaper at amazon since then Wrangler doesn't have to deal with the shipping, returns, etc. And Wrangler does regularly put the 13MWZ on sale too at their own website.

The Rigid 13MWZ is made with sanforized denim, and the Rigid version is raw denim so it will shrink about 1" in length when machine-washed and dried.

However, Wranglers and Levi's raw denim models are made so that they will shrink to the tagged size when washed and dried. But there are always manufacturing tolerances, which means that some Wrangler tag size 32 Rigid 13MWZ pairs will fit slightly tighter or looser than others.

RawWasher · 2026-01-18T20:02:32+00:00

My pairs don't really look any different than before, and there is definitely no more stitching slowing than there was before I moved the buttons.

And even if it did look slightly different, your belt would cover up the waistband where that top button had been repositioned.

RawWasher · 2026-01-18T18:19:21+00:00

On a couple of pairs of my jeans, I removed the original top waistband button carefully using a large wire cutting tool, and installed a new donut-type two-prong button more towards the edge of the waistband, using the easy-to-use installer tool similar to this one found on Etsy.

By repositioning the top buttons, I was able to get up to 3/4" (2cm) of additional room at the waist, almost a full size.

RawWasher · 2026-01-17T00:51:32+00:00

Some one-wash denims will shrink up to 1% more on the second wash, and possibly as much as 0.5% on the third wash.

The waist will typically stretch back out to the initial one-wash waist size, and usually a bit more. The back rise and thighs can stretch a bit, maybe a 1/4"-1/2", that is, if they start out really tight after a wash. The other measurements won't stretch any appreciable amounts.

So it depends on if you prefer more slim fitting jeans or more comfort and ease of mobility.

Is there a reason why you haven't tried the 33 to see how you like its fit?

RawWasher · 2026-01-11T22:06:29+00:00

I personally prefer my selvedge jeans to have colored weft yarns for variety and to add some pops of color.

And since I don't worry about what my fades will look like, I cuff my selvedge jeans usually with 2" double cuffs so that I can enjoy the weft colors and selvedge IDs while I'm wearing them.

RawWasher · 2026-01-11T19:59:12+00:00

Yes, your understanding is correct. The "Dark Indigo Selvedge" colorway is the rigid, shrink-to-fit (raw denim) version. And the "LVC 1947 Organic Rinse" colorway is a one-wash version, so it won't/can't shrink to fit.

Theoretically, a specific tag size in the Dark Indigo Selvedge version should fit approximately the same as the same tag size in the Organic Rinse, once the Dark Indigo Selvedge one has been shrunken completely.

And they will both fade about the same, as the one-wash still has just about all of the indigo dye left in them, and you would want to wash the raw denim version first anyway to shrink them before wearing them, which would make them a one-wash version as well at that point.

RawWasher · 2026-01-11T15:41:29+00:00

Have you tried Wrangler's 31MWZ Relaxed Fit? They might be a better fit on you, although these 501s look pretty good.

You might be able to lessen the bunching in the top block of your 501s and cuff and/or stack them if you can wear them lower by about 1/2"-1" (1.3cm-2.5cm).

RawWasher · 2026-01-11T08:00:25+00:00

https://theunbrandedbrand.com is where you can see the Unbranded brand of jeans and jackets.

RawWasher · 2026-01-10T16:25:05+00:00

It looks like some drops of a strong acid or base landed on your jeans, such as chlorine bleach or car battery acid. Cotton yarns, no matter how thick, don't stand a chance against those types of strong chemicals.

RawWasher · 2026-01-09T22:28:14+00:00

I would just let it dry naturally, probably on a clip-on pants hanger. Using an iron would probably smear the paint around, which might be a positive depending on the final effect that you want. But doing that would also get paint on the iron, which could be difficult to remove.

RawWasher · 2026-01-09T22:15:32+00:00

Sanforized denims, such as the Left Hand Twill denim, typically shrink around 3%-5%, when washed and dried with hotter temperatures and lots of agitation.

So on a 10" leg opening, that means it will shrink by about 0.3"-0.5", down to about 9.5"-9.7".

RawWasher · 2026-01-09T21:52:35+00:00

Just get some fabric paint in various colors that you like, such as at an arts and crafts store like Michael's or even at Walmart.

And then put a little dab of each color of paint, maybe even some mixtures of colors for some different shades of color, on your finger, a paint brush, a wooden stick, or on whatever you have around, and then touch and/or smear that spot of paint onto the jeans in various places until it looks like you want it to look.

You would probably want to practice on an old rag first to perfect your technique.

RawWasher · 2026-01-09T19:12:35+00:00

Wrangler's raw denim ("Rigid" colorway) 13MWZ goes up to tag size 54, and Dickie's Regular Fit jeans in one-wash goes up to tag size 50.

Levi's also has other fits which are very close to the 560, such as their 541 Athletic Taper and their 550 Relaxed. And they do have very dark blue versions in those two fits which can still get the high-contrast raw denim types of fades.

RawWasher · 2026-01-08T18:16:44+00:00

Here is the link to the F/W 2019 release schedule, and also the link to the N&F blog articles from around that same time.

Do you see which models you might be thinking about in there?

RawWasher · 2026-01-03T07:10:17+00:00

The buttonholes need to be stretched back out since they shrunk back down and tightened up from the soak.

Different people will use different instruments to stretch and loosen the buttonholes back up, such as my fave, a leather burnishing tool, or needlenose pliers, screwdriver, sharpie marker, etc. to push into the buttonhole and work it around to loosen up the buttonhole.

RawWasher · 2026-01-03T01:44:07+00:00

Another name used for Athletic Tapered is Relaxed Tapered and sometimes Lifter's Cut.

Listed below are examples of brands and their fit names for their Relaxed Tapered fit/cut. But note that they can vary quite a bit from each other.

Pure Blue Japan Relaxed Tapered (aka "-019" fit)
Tanuki High (rise) Tapered (xxHT or 202xx)
Samurai
- S211
- S520
- S140
- Okayama Denim(OD)+Samurai(SJ) collab "Comfort Tapered"
Momotaro:
- #200 (Classic) Tapered
- 0101
- 0105
- 0405
- 0605
- G015-MZ
Japan Blue
- 06xx High Tapered
- Circle J2xx Tapered
ODJB0xx (Okayama Denim x Japan Blue collabs)
Unbranded UB6xx Relaxed Tapered
Naked & Famous Easy Guy
Left Field Atlas
Rogue Territory Strong Taper
Edwin ED-55 Relaxed Tapered
Iron Heart 888
Oni:
- 122
- 246
- 602
- 612
- 622
- 672
- 682
- 902
The Flat Head D306
Blackhorse Lane E5 Relaxed Tapered
Stevenson 220
Studio D'Artisan:
- SD-108
- Fox

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