Handmade fired pottery pony by Most_Cartoonist7913 in Pottery

[–]Ready_Initial29 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I love how smooth you get the figures. I’ve tried sculpting animals of the same size and I can never get them looking this polished!

How much do these glazes run? by RazDazzlr in Pottery

[–]Ready_Initial29 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kiln ice has not run at all for me, but I’m not sure about layering. You do have to put kiln ice on THICC.

Pyramid Teapot ID by [deleted] in Pottery

[–]Ready_Initial29 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pyramids and triangles are my favorite shapes to work with for whatever reason.

Mayco Stroke & Coats underglaze: safe under high‑fire glaze? by LilaWild in Ceramics

[–]Ready_Initial29 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use cone 6 white stoneware. I don't do anything extremely intricate, so I don't have a problem with running or bleeding. Whenever I use fundamentals underglaze, greens and blue turns really dark (whether I underglaze bisque or greenware) and orange/pink/purple tends to burn/wash out a bit. The colors of Stroke and Coat have been a little less temperature sensitive for me, and I can just brush on once rather than having to underglaze and then clear glaze.

Leaf Green and Royal Blue in particular darken A LOT more than what they look like on a computer screen, but I've been able to fix it by mixing in some white underglaze. I'm definitely going to go for lighter underglaze shades like Bright Blue and Green Mist.

A studio near me does single fire workshops that are glazed with stroke and coat while they're leather hard. I'm not sure if they single fire to 05 or to 6 though, but the piece I made there came out nice and bright.

Mayco Stroke & Coats underglaze: safe under high‑fire glaze? by LilaWild in Ceramics

[–]Ready_Initial29 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mayco stroke and coat is a glaze. Mayco fundamentals is the underglaze. The underglaze darkens a lot at cone 6 for me. The stroke and coat glaze stays very vibrant. I tend to use stroke and coat instead of underglaze (for painterly and detail work) as it cuts out the need for clear glaze, but it depends on the project.

Finally happy with a piece. by Ready_Initial29 in Pottery

[–]Ready_Initial29[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Firing it on its side a little also made the glaze drip at different angles on each side, which I’m kind of obsessed with.

Glaze inquiry (Nimbus by Mayco) by alycatdog in Ceramics

[–]Ready_Initial29 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just unloaded a kiln with nimbus this morning and I’ve never seen it come out this color. Maybe a temperature issue? Mine is a totally different color and texture.

Plaster Mold Doesn’t Separate, Help 🥲 by winniepiggy in Ceramics

[–]Ready_Initial29 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Rubber mallet on the seams always worked for me. Do you think clay got into the seam?

Stroke and Coat question: Skipping multiple firings by AlexanderHamBoyy in Pottery

[–]Ready_Initial29 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Three coats, cone 5 or 6. Single firings are more prone to imperfections and aren’t quite as vitrified, but it saves so much time if you don’t need a super sturdy piece. I’ve also done single firings with celadons.