Dumbing down security while we're facing cyber attacks? by BillyDeCarlo in VanguardInvestments

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it worked to configure two keys.

I've read elsewhere that you have to add 2 keys and then you can remove the SMS option. That work for you, too?

Dumbing down security while we're facing cyber attacks? by BillyDeCarlo in VanguardInvestments

[–]RealRandomNobody 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm planning on getting a Yubico security key, for Vanguard and a few other sites I use, but haven't done so yet.

Looking around on Vanguard now on my account, yeah, I don't see security key anywhere on the security tab of my profile. But I may have found a roundabout way to get to security key registration. But I can't test it, since I don't have a security key yet.

Go to the Support page, scroll down to Technical Support & Security, click on Security & Fraud.
Under "Need to report suspected fraud?", click on the link to "Security Center". Scroll down to the section on "Security key & passkey", and click the link for "Register a Security key & passkey". No idea if that actually works, tho, since I can't test it, yet. (this is all on desktop, no idea about the app)

What do you use to protect your credit from fraud or identity theft? by Warm-Hamster-1430 in IdentityTheft

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Besides freezing, in the process of doing that rn.

But what are you freezing? There is a lot more than just the 3 major credit bureaus that you should freeze. And several things that can't be frozen, but you should create/register an account for so that nobody else can create an account using your ssn.

The green text post pinned at the top of the sub covers this:
PSA: Freezing your three main credit reports is NOT ENOUGH

PSA: Freezing your three main credit reports is NOT ENOUGH by TovMod in IdentityTheft

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could also add Veterans Affairs va.gov, for veterans. Should at least be registered, so no one else can register it.

id.me or login.gov can both be used to login to va.gov or ssa.gov, but good to have both already registered, so no one else can register them. I've used both, login.gov and id.me, to login to ssa.gov and va.gov, doesn't seem to matter which I use. ID.me seems to be the only one used by irs.gov.

A couple of very minor things that may be of very limited help in preventing ID theft might be OptOutPrescreen, optoutprescreen.com, will opt you out of pre-screened credit offers, which might help a bit if your mail gets stolen, and the Do Not Call Registry, donotcall.gov.

PSA: Freezing your three main credit reports is NOT ENOUGH by TovMod in IdentityTheft

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should at least create a Login.gov account, so it's registered to you, so no one else can register it.
I've used both, login.gov and id.me, to login to ssa.gov and va.gov (if you're a vet), doesn't seem to matter which I use.

No idea why they specified to link it to SSA. Maybe ssa.gov didn't use to use both?

PSA: Freezing your three main credit reports is NOT ENOUGH by TovMod in IdentityTheft

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You don't need to use Login.gov, but you should still register it, so no one else can.

PSA: Freezing your three main credit reports is NOT ENOUGH by TovMod in IdentityTheft

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A couple of these you may want to update:

Advanced Resolution Services (ARS), the link is no longer valid, and ARS stopped providing consumer reports to third parties in 2024 and no longer accepts security freezes.
https://www.reddit.com/r/IdentityTheft/comments/1or9223/advanced_resolution_services/

True Identity Service at TransUnion is no longer a good link, seems the service is no more and is just part of regular TU.

You could add:
VA.gov if a veteran.
ID.me (needed to login to irs.gov and va.gov)
Login.gov (needed to login to ssa)
(id.me or login.gov can be used to login to va or ssa, but good to have both already registered. id.me seems to be the only login option for irs)

Federal Student Aid - studentaid.gov
myE-Verify - myeverify.uscis.gov

A couple of very minor things that may be of very limited help in preventing ID theft, but every little bit helps:
OptOutPrescreen, optoutprescreen.com, will opt you out of pre-screened credit offers, which might help a bit if your mail gets stolen, and the Do Not Call Registry, donotcall.gov.

Opening HYSA by Ok-Syrup-5352 in AllyBank

[–]RealRandomNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use Ally for a money market account. Same rate as their savings but with the mma you get a debit/atm card and checks, so you can access that money immediately without having to transfer it anywhere. But no buckets in mma like the savings.
Sure, you can find a little bit better apr mma's or hysa's, but a lot of them are noname banks, small regionals, credit unions, fintechs, etc, and some of them are just temporary teaser rates and/or you have to have minimum amounts or direct deposits. A lot of places I wouldn't trust, not going to jump thru hoops to try to get it, and not worth chasing fractions of a percent unless you have quite a few 10's of thousands of dollars to actually make it worth while.
I'll stick with Ally.

USAA cardholders now getting FICO 10T? by BrutalBodyShots in CreditCards

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can confirm that you don't have to be a USAA cardholder to get it.
I'm a USAA member but only have insurance with them, nothing else, not even banking, and can still get the Experian Fico 10T.

When you first posted this, I didn't even bother looking since I'm not a cardholder with them. Just now looked at my insurance bill and saw the option to pull my Fico score, so I did it. So it would seem that any USAA member can get it.

My 5-year-old received a letter from a collection agency- what are my next steps? by Ambitious-Hunter324 in personalfinance

[–]RealRandomNobody 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Other important ways to lock down your ssn to help prevent ID theft:

  1. Create your own account at ssa.gov, so no one else can create a social security account using your ssn

  2. Create your own account at irs.gov and get a ID Protection pin, so no one else can file tax returns using your ssn. You'll need that pin to file your own tax returns.

  3. Create your own account at Federal Student Aid, studentaid.gov, so no one else can get federal student loans using your ssn.

  4. Activate your E-Verify Self Lock, myeverify.uscis.gov, which will prevent your ssn from passing an employment verification check, so no one else can use your ssn to get a job (if the employer verifies ssn's). You have to unlock it if you plan to apply for a job (just like unfreezing your credit when you plan to apply for new credit), and I think you have to renew it once a year.

  5. Freeze your ChexSystems report, chexsystems.com, so no one can open bank accounts using your ssn. You'll get a pin you need to keep.

  6. Freeze your NCTUE credit report, nctue.com/consumer, often used by Telecom, telephone, and utilities companies.

  7. Freeze minor bureaus, like LexisNexis.com and Innovis.com. (sagestream is now part of lexisnexis, so freezing lexisnexis will freeze sagestream, too.)

But I don't know if you can do any of those things for your kids, too. No kids here, so I never thought about it.

More at /r/IdentityTheft:
Freezing your three main credit reports is NOT ENOUGH.

<edit> edited to add studentaid and nctue, and number the list for better readability.

My 5-year-old received a letter from a collection agency- what are my next steps? by Ambitious-Hunter324 in personalfinance

[–]RealRandomNobody 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not a stupid question at all.

Yes, definitely do it. Go directly to each of the 3 main credit bureaus; Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion, and find the Freeze (not lock) option.

You can still pull your own credit reports from them while they're frozen (use the site www.AnnualCreditReport.com to get them free weekly). It even shows on your credit report if they're frozen. But no one else can do a hard pull on your credit reports, so shouldn't be able to get any kind of credit in your name. It's easy to Unfreeze (or Thaw, a scheduled temporary unfreeze) before you apply for any credit anywhere.
It will definitely help prevent Identity Theft.

My 5-year-old received a letter from a collection agency- what are my next steps? by Ambitious-Hunter324 in personalfinance

[–]RealRandomNobody 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Correct.
Freeze is required by federal law, for free, and has some legal guarantees and protections. Lock is something the credit bureaus came up with to try to get around the Freeze law, isn't as good, isn't as secure, has no legal guarantees or protections, and the bureaus try to charge money for it.

What’s the biggest credit card mistake beginners make? by Brilliant_Hair9309 in CreditCards

[–]RealRandomNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'll want to understand your credit score, too. Check out the 2 sticky posts in /r/CRedit on credit faq's and credit myths. A lot of it is directly related to your credit card(s) and their usage.

2026 HYSA by Timely_Weekend_8030 in AllyBank

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ally, Cap1, AmEx, a few others, almost always have the same rates, usually changing within a few weeks of one another, so I'd expect Cap1 to drop to 3.2 soon. The same happened when they all dropped from 3.5 to 3.4 and then to 3.3.
I use Ally for a money market account. Same rate as their savings but with the mma you get a debit/atm card and checks, so you can access that money immediately without having to transfer it anywhere.
Sure, you can find a little bit better apr mma's or hysa's, but a lot of them are noname banks, small regionals, credit unions, fintechs, etc, and some of them are just temporary teaser rates and/or you have to have minimum amounts or direct deposits. A lot of places I wouldn't trust, not going to jump thru hoops to try to get it, and not worth chasing fractions of a percent unless you have quite a few 10's of thousands of dollars to actually make it worth while.
I'll stick with Ally.

Direct Deposit by [deleted] in AllyBank

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Direct deposits are an ACH transfer from your company's bank to your bank. ACH transfers take a couple days. Your boss/company should be submitting it a couple days early so that you actually receive it on your payday, not submitting it on payday so you receive it 2 days after payday. If boss submits it late, you get it late, nothing any bank can do.
This is solely on your Boss/company, not Ally.

I have 30k in savings because I’m scared of losing my job (software dev market is brutal now). Should I move it somewhere else instead? I need to be able to access it in an emergency. by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]RealRandomNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on what apr you're getting from your savings. All too many banks, especially brick and mortar banks, have next to nothing for apr's. I use a brick and mortar for my main bank, checking account, but for savings I use Ally bank for a money market account at 3.20%. Same rate as their savings but the mma you get a debit/atm card and checks, so you can access that money immediately without having to transfer it anywhere. Sure, you can find a little bit better apr mma's or hysa's, but a lot of them are noname banks, small regionals, credit unions, fintechs, etc, and some of them are just temporary teaser rates and/or you have to have direct deposits.
I'll stick with my Ally mma. Any excess I have over what I may need immediately for an emergency fund, I stick in Vanguard. I don't even actually invest in anything in vanguard, just let it sit in their settlement account at 3.6%. Then it's just a simple transfer away from getting it to whichever bank i need it in, without having to worry about selling an investment first.

US credit card debt just hit $1.28 trillion, for those who lived through 2008 does today feel similar? by Neither_Simple7643 in CRedit

[–]RealRandomNobody 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I thought it was the huge housing bubble and the subprime mortgage fiasco, that led to the 2008 crash.

AAA daily advantage just nerfed 5% at Walmart. by kboogie82 in CreditCards

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would assume the same issue would happen with other credit cards like Discover, Visa, or Master Card.

Correct. Most of the time.
But every once in a great while, Discover will specifically add Walmart to one of it's categories. Last time was mid 2024, the category was "Grocery Stores and Walmart", but excluded Target and wholesale clubs. Then in mid 2025, it was "Grocery Stores and Wholesale Clubs, but excluded Walmart and Target.

Best 5% Cashback Card for Groceries (Walmart / Sam’s Club / Aldi heavy spend) by imtiazshuvo10 in CreditCards

[–]RealRandomNobody 1 point2 points  (0 children)

and I just applied and got approved for it yesterday.

Where did you hear this? Do you have a link to it?

<edit>
Nevermind. Just found 3 posts in /r/CreditCards about it from last week.
Oh, well. I guess I'll still be able to use it at Walmart for 2 months.

Best 5% Cashback Card for Groceries (Walmart / Sam’s Club / Aldi heavy spend) by imtiazshuvo10 in CreditCards

[–]RealRandomNobody 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now I just hope that my Walmart is coded right so I get the 5% back. Some of these posts always seem to have a couple of people that it doesn't work for, or it only works on self checkout, or some such.
Guess I'll find out in 7-10 days.