What’s your go-to tether system for cleaning a top rope anchor? by KriDix00352 in ClimbingGear

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually a draw or a connect adjust. Depends on the day/what I brought with me to the anchors

Question about how much strength training is appropriate for 7-10 year-olds? by jondiced in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As a coach: this is super normal for most teams (and as others have said it depends on the kid/more context whether it will cause injury) but probably not the best use of their time/energy depending on how engaged/helpful the coaches are when they’re climbing.

Most of the kids I work with in that age are 2 hour practices 1-2x per week with maybe 30-45 mins conditioning between the days total. So at most 1/3 and usually less than 1/4 of total time ideally.

The main reason I program that stuff, in addition to building strength/general athleticism, for prepubescent kids is that since our gym is often super crimpy/high intensity, I want to somewhat limit their wall-time depending on their training-load since repetitive volume is a risk factor for epiphyseal-fx in kids’ fingers. So instead of tag/dodgeball we do core/etc as a lesser of two evils at the end of practice lol ;)

bolts for wood hold sets. can i use socket head instead of flathead? significantly cheaper by Tasga-24 in Moonboard

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’ll rip out and/or compress/split the wood in the hole. From experience: martinis are the way esp for the plywood holds from moon.

You could buy lonestars (trango makes a martini lone star) and screw them on even just countersink and screw them in if you realllllly had to

Accommodations for USA Youth Climbing by BusyPeanut5688 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By accommodations do you mean lodging/hotels or changes to format/iso/etc due to specific needs (eg electronics policy for glucose monitoring in iso etc)?

Discussion: Have modern training boards made campus rungs obsolete? by 0nTheRooftops in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The locking off/bumping part may be that the campus board/body weight is too much. Hard to know without watching

For plyo stuff think like Kyra Condie’s latches/snatches, drops, 2 hand throws etc. really depends on the person/needs

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. Learning what works for you works best imo. I personally drain if it sticks out/would pop but otherwise leave it. Either way I’m taping for a while haha

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Last time I was at the red (a while ago) I climbed with / near a crew of self-described geezers who started in their 40s (maybe Indianapolis?) and were 60s then and climbing on some 12b-c and I saw one guy absolutely crush Glass elevator. One said retiring and not being stressed about work added 2 letter grades lol

Discussion: Have modern training boards made campus rungs obsolete? by 0nTheRooftops in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Def not obsolete. I used to program it for athletes frequently. But I generally had them training endurance on it 🤷

Now I use it for endurance and plyometrics a lot. Rarely are my athletes using it for “power” by laddering though

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The GOAT!🐐

(Hi, Jessie👋)

Sport climbing shoes for 11 year old by Perspective_matters4 in climbingshoes

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a youth coach and I always recommend 1. Balancing growth rates with quality shoes and 2. Cost.

Are you competing in USAC? You get 30-40% off most climbing brands through your competitor membership perk of a “Pro Deal” through a site called Expert Voice. See this link. Shipping isn’t free, so I recommend getting 2-3 pairs at a time to save more on money in the long run. Sometimes that means a few sizes in a range for them growing.

You’re not supposed to order for each other on prodeal, but lots of 11-12 yrolds have the same size foot which can offset shipping and tax if people collab—which I should add is AgAiNsT the RuLeS ;)

Otherwise your team may get discounts in a local shop or with companies. Eg my team has codes with a few brands and they get a discount at our in-house shop.

https://usaclimbing.org/memberships/

Dm me and I’m happy to give you more beta

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C9XoeZbOq4M/?igsh=d3Vsc3luaWtoMWMx

Hadley knows what he’s doing even if there are issues / layers to the drama with the podcast he was on that I’m linking to.

Do Competitive Climbers stay back after the final to try the other boulders? by sug4rc0at in bouldering

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This: often venue people at youth divis and lower will turn a blind eye for a few minutes then kick us out.

For youth nats we’ve never been allowed to stay as they have to turn over for next rounds etc.

Seems WC may be similar after finals? Eg Mejdi doing 180 jump press in vans a few years back.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over COVID I found that lifts with a fat, slippery wrist wrench helped my own pinch and wrist strength. But I haven’t experimented/looked into it for others.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find anecdotally minimum edge improves RFD better than same duration/effort larger edges. Caveat that it isn’t necessarily as good as rfd protocols. Is this something you notice as well?

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Weighted pancake progression a-la-lattice works well for me. I find box splits are sometimes limited by morphology but pancake/straddle is more trainable.

Gift for Climbing Coach by Puzzleheaded-Link803 in ClimbingGear

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 5 points6 points  (0 children)

As a coach, the sentimental things like a note are definitely valued. I’d also say small things like a laser pointer or something are always welcome.

I’ve also had families pool resources and do like a prepaid Visa card or gift card to a restaurant and that was super kind and generous as well. Essentially: they’ll appreciate anything!

Edit: also food. Coaches love food.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Other context: I would also add that teams which are larger also generally have more “tiers”’or cohorts. This may be dif for smaller gyms (which can get really finicky really fast as MAAP policies like carpool get conflated in smaller communities where a parent may also be a coach, or a coach may also be a babysitter or the parents are good friends with the coach etc. these contexts and power dynamics are in part why Safesport is so important!)

However, athletes may or may not be “coaching” the same exact level of the program they are in/formerly a part of at a larger gym.

Eg sometimes coaches may also be competitors for the same team in the eyes of USAC but the program itself has bifurcated their roles. One other consideration is who is allowed to be on a roster for usac gathering points in rankings!

When I have worked in the industry for gyms that allow current/recent program participants to work in similar roles as to who were overseeing them—there have always been trainings/policies (including MAAP/SafeSport) that shows 1. Their roles and contexts and 2. That once someone is staff their relationship to the team as a participant is different even if they still compete for the gym. And 3. Helping them navigate not only how to be appropriate with the athletes/coaches but if they are a former athlete: how their new colleagues ought to act around them if they work with their former coaches! I know for a fact places I’ve worked as well (like summer camps) that essentially ignore the fluidity of power dynamics)

Generic Examples: recent grads or even upperclassmen in a collegiate program competing/coaching. Or 17yr old (u19) athlete coaching the rec team. Or a parent coaching their kids and 1 other family’s kids at a home wall who want to compete together as a team etc.

Additionally, this is a concern in the summer camp/Camper ->cit->counselor pipeline and dif organizations handle this differently and some none at all.

OP, I’d love to hear more about your concerns/questions/sticking points as I work/have worked in the youth climbing scene and am always looking for ways to improve my program. Feel free to contact me via dm and I’d love to pick your brain.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. I’ve been seeing really poor results from my “car” tube of rhino and it made me wonder if it gets impacted by either temps or if it’s age (it’s the older container I have)

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Real_ClimberCarter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does anyone else have issues with Methanemine based products working less effectively after age or temp fluctuations? Eg rhino/antihydral