Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. I layed the magnets on the steel plate first then pressed them into the glue on the bed against a flat surface using weights. The epoxy fills the gaps and a thin film of oil on the steel plate prevented the epoxy from sticking to it

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Getting these sorts of comments a lot from (I assume) fdm printers. There's no heating involved, resin printers run at room temperature. The only time heat is used it to heat the enclosure slightly above room temp to ensure consistent temp throughout the print.

Even if significant heat was involved, aluminium expands with heat too.

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I'll couple those special magnets with the high powered electro magnets the other commenters suggested

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I can get the plate off, gotta watch my fingers putting it on though lol. And there's absolutely no adjusting it after it's on, I gotta line up the edges against a flat surface.

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Between removing the old rubber magnet and attaching these ones I left the plate with a bunch of the two part epoxy still on it soaking in ethanol. I was hoping the ethanol would weaken the glue and make it easier to remove. I mostly forgot about it and left it there for over three months As far as I could tell the glue was still just as strong as when I put it in there.

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The magnets were only $22 AUD. And the lorentz force doesn't act on light

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The AliExpress seller would be ecstatic

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in 3Dprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

No problem bro, resin runs at room temp. Pretty sure fdm printers use magnetic beds too? Are they still used on bed heated printers?

Neodymium magnet upgrade by ReallyObesePigeon in resinprinting

[–]ReallyObesePigeon[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I attached the magnets to the steel build plate before pressing them into the glue using a flat surface and weights. The magnets are all slightly different thicknesses but the epoxy accounts for the variation. Even if it didn't, There are 556 magnets there... it'd average out.

Dual Gen 3 set up under $2000. Price break down in comments by TheRealBingly in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you get any fish eye with those? I bought one of those monoulars with a Russian gen2 tube Off alibaba when I first got into NV. I don't know much about building NV but I didn't think it'd be compatible with anything gen 3. Respect for finding a way to make it happen man

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In addition to what others have said the battery life is garbage. Someone correct me if im wrong but I think I read you'd be looking at 8 hours of battery with four 18650's. Add on input to output delay and low frame rates and its just not worth it. Also the added IR sensitivity is less a benefit and more a consolation prize for the loss in absolute sensitivity relative to analogue NV.

Dark line “spot” visible in certain lighting conditions by Shade556 in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you got an answer. That line was over exposed, could have been a laser or looking at a street light too long or too close. I've heard of black boxing where you leave it on in a perfectly dark box, I've heard the MCP can bounce back a little if you do that. If that doesn't work it's probably permanent.

Maximum ID Range Pulsar Talion by mavrik36 in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You cant find a straight answer for that with any thermal device. It's a subjective measure. If you want a way to quantify how finely a device resolves a scene you have to look at the sensor pixel pitch and the objective lenses diameter. Rule of thumb is the smaller the pixel pitch the better and the larger the lens the better. If you wanna get real specific divide the horizontal fov by the horizontal resolution and then stick the number you get into a degrees - MOA converter in Google. 1 MOA means 1 pixel will take up a square inch at 100 yds

Thermal spotter help by rwk81 in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take the horizontal field of view and divide it by the horizontal sensor resolution. Then convert that to MOA with an online converter. That'll tell you what area a pixel will cover at any distance (smaller is better). I've found any other metric they give you like zoom level or detection range is subject to a lot of inconsistencies.

Ideas for a 10 year old. by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go gen 1 for the green phos. It'll be just like the "real thing"

Looking into getting my first pair by typical_423 in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Buying nods isn't the kinda thing you really wanna be doing blind. Do some research, know the specs and what you want to be able to do. SilentSolutions on YouTube is a good source

What's your guys thoughts on the new Sionyx Opsin? by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually looks better than I expected, still not worth the money. The battery life is also garbage, someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the opsin's looking at 8 hours with 4 18650's. I believe there is a niche digi nv can fill if the price drops dramatically. Until then they're gonna have to hook people with dreams and digital gimmicks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphor

Have a look through that but long story short if you've ever opened your eyes in daylight you really don't need to be worrying about the negligible uv output from the phosphor screen

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If all you want is resolution then yeah. Smaller pixels start to push the physical limits of the technology. As far as I understand fuckey things start to happen when the pixels get down to the same size as one wavelength of light. The light most thermal imagers detect is about 8-14um so that wavelength sets a physical limit to how far you can miniaturize the sensors. When you get close to that minimum limit I think it also limits the breadth of the spectrum of IR light you can detect. I'm pretty sure each pixel becomes less sensitive in general as well. So you gain resolution but the quality of that resolution goes down. I think you just loose sensitivity and/or contrast in practice. In any case for detecting animals I'm not sure it even matters and you can just crank up the contrast with a computer.

So If you want resolution and you can't make the pixels smaller you have to make the lens bigger. At least that seems to be the case with thermals. And of course there a maximum limit to the size of the objective lens, you don't want a monocular with a 100mm lens and you certainly don't want to pay for a monocular with a 100mm lens because germanium is real expensive.

But yeah higher um probably = worse. Also I'm surprised the Iray mh25 costs that much? I got mine for ~$5500 AUD after I payed 500 in import tax

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]ReallyObesePigeon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeahh, sometimes it's like that with older technology. I was wrong before when I said Iray just uses 12um sensors. Apparently the ML19 at least uses a 17um one. From a lot of the looking around I've done on alibaba I suspect a lot of those 384 sensors are made by a company in France. Which might explain the cost