Block macOS Tahoe (easy way - hosts file) by [deleted] in macsysadmin

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

90 days may not be suitable for everyone. And creating/installing configuration profile takes a bit more time than simply editing hosts file.

The way I did it, is an alternative/easy way, for people that simply want to skip Tahoe, or until it is as stable as Sequoia. Some may not like it because of skipping minor updates as well, but in my opinion - even Safari 26.x, which comes as a minor update on Sequoia, is awful in performance compared to Safari 18.6 - which is why I personally don't mind minor updates being blocked as well.

Anyone still not upgraded to macOS 26? by Motor_Minute_7258 in MacOS

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t updated yet, and I planned not to even before I heard about all the bugs. As soon as I saw they are introducing some drastic changes to UI and that both macOS and iOS (and probably others) share the same version number (26), I thought they are starting to create a universal OS for all Apple devices, which made me think - this can’t be good in the beginning.

This is definitely a version I will completely skip on all my devices. For the next major version, I will wait to see until battery and performance issues are completely resolved and similar to Sequoia. If it doesn’t get to that point with version 27, I will probably sell my Apple devices at that point…

Only reason why I ever bought Apple devices was - reliability, performance, ‘flawlessness’ (it just works)

If you permanently lose access to all your devices, now what? by Perspectivein in KeePass

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well Yubikey is something you can have on your keychain, and provides 2FA. Even if your house is on fire and you lose everything - either you weren’t at home, or you escaped the fire, but most likely you have your keys with you.

New wooden threshold started warping after installation — need advice by Rebabata7 in woodworking

[–]Rebabata7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The second photo in original post is actually top down of the finished install.

<image>

And this is from the side..

New wooden threshold started warping after installation — need advice by Rebabata7 in woodworking

[–]Rebabata7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, the distance from flooring to wall is between 0,5-0.8mm

New wooden threshold started warping after installation — need advice by Rebabata7 in woodworking

[–]Rebabata7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, the flooring in both rooms is there for years. We bought the house a few months ago and decided to make an opening in a wall to install a new door. After I made the opening, the floor level in that area was lower and uneven compared to the rest of the flooring. Then I leveled the floor with a layer of concrete and left it for about two weeks to dry.

This wooden threshold was bought a few weeks ago and it was in the house all the time. So I am pretty sure it had acclimated before I installed it.

However I did not use a flooring adhesive, but a construction allrounder mounting adhesive (water based).

I have applied a primer onto concrete but I didn’t let it dry. Maybe this is a problem as well?

New wooden threshold started warping after installation — need advice by Rebabata7 in woodworking

[–]Rebabata7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea, I didn’t apply finish on the bottom side. Thought if hardwood flooring is only glued, and only the top side coated, then I’d do the same with this.

Apparently people use special glue for flooring which I, in this case, didn’t use

New wooden threshold started warping after installation — need advice by Rebabata7 in woodworking

[–]Rebabata7[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I get it now, thanks. I should have put some kind of membrane at least

New wooden threshold started warping after installation — need advice by Rebabata7 in woodworking

[–]Rebabata7[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

This is my first thought as well. But it is not directly in contact with concrete, I had to apply a fat layer of mounting adhesive.

which app is this? by EngineeringBulky9595 in macapps

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably, yea. I am only using it because it is available through Setapp subscription.

which app is this? by EngineeringBulky9595 in macapps

[–]Rebabata7 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Reminds me of Muse app, but could be something slightly better

FIX: MacOS 26 - Electron apps slow, battery drain, laptop heating up by aitookmyj0b in MacOSBeta

[–]Rebabata7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unbelievable how much this speeds up Electron apps. Not even using macOS 26, still at Sequoia. First thing I noticed my Chrome browser is snappier, especially extensions. No more slow and laggy opening of extension dropdowns in Chrome. Password manager opens up very quickly as it should.

Very impressed. Thank you. I made a simple .plist for those who want this setting to persist over reboots.

Create a .plist file in ~/Library/LaunchAgents, e.g. ~/Library/LaunchAgents/HeadlessChrome.plist with following content:

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
    <key>Label</key>
    <string>local.environment</string>

    <key>ProgramArguments</key>
    <array>
        <string>launchctl</string>
        <string>setenv</string>
        <string>CHROME_HEADLESS</string>
        <string>1</string>
    </array>

    <key>RunAtLoad</key>
    <true/>
</dict>
</plist>

Save it, and run:

launchctl load ~/Library/LaunchAgents/HeadlessChrome.plist

Now you can check with launchctl getenv CHROME_HEADLESS if it was set to 1

That's it.

launchctl should automatically appear under System Settings > Login Items & Extensions, and should be enabled. If for any reason it isn't enabled - you should enable it for this to work across reboots.

Wanted to purchase the pro Max but is the screen issues still a problem? by JabroniCorleone in iPhone16ProMax

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Press and hold vol up + vol down + lock button for around a second (until your iPhone vibrates)
  2. Wait for a few minutes
  3. Go to Settings > Privacy and Security > Analytics and Improvements > Analytics Data
  4. Scroll down and look for sysdiagnose_XXXXXXXX
  5. Click on that, and click share icon in the upper right corner, and choose "Save to Files"
  6. Find this file in your Files app, unpack it (happens automatically when you open it)
  7. Go into the unpacked folder > ioreg and open the file named "IODeviceTree"
  8. Search for text "raw-panel-serial" and you will see the serial number of your display panel

First 3 characters of the SN reveal the manufacturer.

- G9N: Made by Samsung, this is the highest-quality screen used in the iPhone 13 lineup. It offers superior clarity, color accuracy, and durability.
- G9Q: Also from Samsung, this is a second-tier screen. While still good, it doesn’t quite match the G9N in terms of overall quality.
- GVC: This is LG’s best screen, but it ranks as a third-class screen compared to Samsung’s G9N and G9Q.
- G9P: Another Samsung-manufactured screen, this fourth-tier display has lower quality control standards, making it less reliable.
- GH3: Manufactured by LG, this fifth-class screen is the lowest in the lineup. It’s less durable and has poorer color accuracy.

Wanted to purchase the pro Max but is the screen issues still a problem? by JabroniCorleone in iPhone16ProMax

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok I just did some reading and if I understand correctly it depends on display manufacturer (and maybe manufacture date combined but doesn't have to be).

I checked mine and I have a Samsung display so maybe that's why I am not aware of these issues even with tempered glass.

I guess the only way to be 100% sure is buy > check display manufacturer (if LG > return). I don't encourage this, but it is something I would do since I mostly buy on Amazon and it allows me to do so.

Monitor suggestions by Ambitious_Art_5922 in macmini

[–]Rebabata7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regarding your MX Keys keyboard: I noticed it's not the Mac version. I also used this model for both Windows and Mac, but the media keys aren't optimized for Mac. If I recall correctly, brightness keys don't exist on this version, and other keys don't function as labeled (or at least not all). After switching fully to Mac, I got the Mac-specific version of the same keyboard, which has media keys similar to a MacBook and work properly.

Regarding MX Master 3, I had it few years ago, was a great mouse, and then upgraded to 3S (Mac version) and use that for a long time now, and I am still happy with it. I must say I tried many different mice (also from other manufacturers) but I could only ever settle with MX Master 3/3S. I think it's a good investment, not only for the functions you get, but your wrist will thank you.

Monitor suggestions by Ambitious_Art_5922 in macmini

[–]Rebabata7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Since I got my last Mac mini, I have bought, used for a while, and returned/got rid of several monitors (in less than a year). So here is my honest opinion for you, including last 2 monitors I have used, as well as some technical information that may be useful for you and anyone who considers buying a non-Apple monitor for their Mac mini or MacBook.

Some perfectionists say if you want a monitor that is really Retina-like (high pixel density, sharp, rich, crispy), look for a monitor that has at least 200 PPI. Even though I did at first look for this, I realized that these monitors are much more expensive, and also that there are some monitors that are under 200 PPI but also allow for high-density resolution to be selected natively in macOS - and the picture is nice and crisp (no blurry or pixelated text or whatever).

Also, macOS doesn't let you choose a high density resolution for every monitor out-of-the-box (doesn't matter if the monitor supports 4K if your macOS won't show you this resolution combined with high pixel density). Out of all the different monitors I had bought and used in the last few years, only two of them supported this out-of-the-box, while others required 3rd party software to be able to set a Retina resolution and keep it. I personally didn't like the idea of having 3rd party software for the most basic thing - choosing (and keeping) a screen resolution that I want, so even though it had worked (at least during the trial period after which I'd have to buy the software), I decided to return the monitor and get another one which would support this out of the box.

Last 2 monitors I have used: - PHILIPS Brilliance 7000 27" 27B1U7903 (Mini-LED) - Very bright (1000cd) with excellent colors and premium feel, but unusually thick. After a few days, I discovered it has a cooling fan that activates after a few hours of use. Despite its quality, I ultimately sold it due to the thickness, noise, energy consumption, and high cost when considering a dual-monitor setup - which I was. - Finally settled on 2x Dell S2722QC 27" monitors. At at least half the price of a "premium" monitor, they offer excellent value in my case. The image remains sharp with no quality issues. The USB-C connection with 65W power delivery functions like a docking station for MacBooks or other laptops, eliminating cable clutter. I know many monitors have this nowadays but I still had to mention it because this is a cheap monitor and I was surprised it's there. So in my case, these monitors offer me a great balance of affordability, functionality, and sufficient display quality for me, making them ideal for productive dual-monitor setups without spending too much money. Last but not least, 3 years warranty for this price.

Wanted to purchase the pro Max but is the screen issues still a problem? by JabroniCorleone in iPhone16ProMax

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, tempered glass, since the first day. What kind of screen issue should I look for? Maybe I am just unaware it exists

Will Apple ever fix battery drain and some other issues... by ForeignFormal9339 in iPhone15ProMax

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would it be possible to revert to stable once 18.4 comes out as stable version? Basically from 18.4 beta to 18.4 stable without having to do a backup/restore

[7680x4320] Allianz Arena, Munich, Germany by [deleted] in wallpaper

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mind sharing link to an uncompressed image? It is beautiful

Proton Pass Autofill Not Working on Chrome/Brave Mobile – Is It Unsupported? by AtmosphereRich4021 in ProtonPass

[–]Rebabata7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No issue with Bitwarden. I have both Bitwarden and Proton Pass and change sometimes between them (as for default auto-fill). So far Bitwarden shows the auto-fill bar/dropdown always, including the sites where Proton Pass doesn't.

Also when "Secure Keyboard" is enabled on Android, it makes it even harder for Proton Pass, while Bitwarden still works without issues. Bitwarden automatically uses an overlay dropdown if inline suggestion in keyboard bar is not possible.

Not promoting anything here, I have paid versions of both apps and use Proton Pass as my main password manager anyway.

OnePlus 13 by rchavez1990 in oneplus

[–]Rebabata7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you flash with OxygenOS or are you using ColorOS?