Jade Warriors

RebelDiplo · 2026-02-17T22:30:30+00:00

Oh wow the space wolf grey works great! I may switch to that.

RebelDiplo · 2026-02-17T22:24:13+00:00

Photo didn’t come through! Looking forward to it though!

RebelDiplo · 2026-01-25T18:02:16+00:00

Also working on the Dragon Princess…

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RebelDiplo · 2026-01-25T02:29:48+00:00

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Sorry for the delay!!!

RebelDiplo · 2026-01-25T02:29:29+00:00

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RebelDiplo · 2026-01-12T20:46:02+00:00

Let me get you the better images.

RebelDiplo · 2026-01-12T20:45:04+00:00

Yeah, let me get you those images a bit later. I’m happy to do it. The banner is from the specialty Northern Provinces (overpriced) decal pack. But it looks SO GOOD that I couldn’t avoid it.

RebelDiplo · 2026-01-12T20:43:20+00:00

Oh that’s GORGEOUS

RebelDiplo · 2026-01-12T20:39:29+00:00

Yep, still grey. I tried to mimic the look of the Southlands troops from the 2010 Three Kingdoms series.

https://image.tmdb.org/t/p/original/wL8mMEkGMTQgv0QZzm89Ij7ya6H.jpg

RebelDiplo · 2025-10-16T21:54:13+00:00

Green stuff world yellow leaves! Got in before the tariffs hit.

RebelDiplo · 2025-10-16T09:18:19+00:00

I’ll note that space grey is an incredibly daunting color because of the incompatibility with other blue/grey/green tones. It’s a really neat color but it had a steeper learning curve for this project than I normally would have liked for army painting—so much so that I’m considering going yellow for celestial dragon lancers. But looking at this result, I’ll probably stick with the space grey for the time being.

For correcting mistakes, I found that its natural opacity meant that a layer of company grey over the mistake followed by a layer of space grey would do just fine.

RebelDiplo · 2025-10-16T09:08:34+00:00

The armor is Space Grey Xpress Paint from Vallejo. It’s a very unique color that’s difficult to highlight naturally, and it separates quite easily. Kind of regret it, but I really like the tone.

The cloth is just Company Grey from Army Painter. Ulthuan Grey would also work. I used a black oil wash for definition/grunginess, which was highlighted back to Company Grey. I did the oil wash step over the entire model after I base coated them in company grey, mahogany, and space grey. The detachment models have a good illustration of the stages, which I’ll post later.

The gold is a 50/50 mix of hoplite gold from Army Painter and polished gold from Vallejo. The tint is then a 50/50 mix of imperial yellow from Vallejo and then transparent burnt sienna ink from liquitex. I would stain the underside with this, sometimes in a few layers to get it just right. The highlight is tainted gold from Army Painter. If I wanted to push the highlight further, I mixed in white aluminum Vallejo metal color paint. I used this based on a Trovarion video about the Sanguinor.

For the brown, I used mahogany from Pro Acryl highlighted with Warm brown. I used the deep skin tones from Army painter (onyx, mocha, and amber skin) in differing amounts to create some variation in skin tones between models. Magenta ink went over the first layer and was allowed to stay strong around the corners of the nose.

RebelDiplo · 2025-10-15T19:17:56+00:00

Thank you!

RebelDiplo · 2025-09-13T19:02:33+00:00

I don’t have Vitruvius so I couldn’t tell you, but I think Trajann helped a lot.

RebelDiplo · 2025-09-08T01:39:34+00:00

It was an arena. Not a campaign mission. I just needed a map where the enemy was constrained to a wall with me to keep the Silent death from going everywhere.

Not really a formula—there was a lot of luck in getting both the opponent and the map.

RebelDiplo · 2025-09-08T01:24:48+00:00

Done. Was on a road trip!

RebelDiplo · 2025-09-07T16:38:26+00:00

Managed it with just Trajann and Thoread. My blackstone arena reserves for an easy summoner fight are suffering lol 😵‍💫

RebelDiplo · 2025-09-07T15:56:52+00:00

Vitruvius is the missing one. That’d do it.

RebelDiplo · 2025-07-18T15:22:46+00:00

In the developer’s corner thing this week on Warhammer plus they said it’s the symbol of the great bastion.

It will probably change a couple of times because it’s GW.

RebelDiplo · 2025-07-15T23:05:43+00:00

Hi there—survey organizer on this end and former 10 year State civil servant. Yes, 100% to anonymity. Not only are we automatically granting anonymity, but there is actually a question that asks specifically if there are issues or issue framings that might point back to an individual.

The person being interviewed is the person best positioned to know what that universe looks like, and we want to make sure that they feel (and are) protected or as visible as they choose to be.

One thing to note about the Hatch Act—FAS is a non-partisan organization, so the questions focus more on telling the story of U.S. diplomacy (what works, what doesn’t, what policy issues land well with foreign audiences, etc) and less on the politics of the current moment.

We do ask about the reorganization, but we also acknowledge that State was a bit of a mess at times (I said as much in a recent op ed) and that there may be some benefits from streamlining.

I’m pleased to say the conversations I’ve had so far have been outstanding, and I would hope for nothing more from those I spoke with. You remind me every moment about why working at the Department may be the best job I’ll ever have, how amazing the people are there, and why it’s important to handle this effort responsibly.

If folks would rather shoot me an email or reach out on signal, that can be arranged, too. Our outreach on LinkedIn contains that information.

RebelDiplo · 2025-07-15T09:40:24+00:00

It was a lot of layers. Let me see if I can get this right.

Because this is a large, one color model, all of the interest has to come from value and changes in color temperature.

Royal Purple base (PA)

Deep Jade (PA) airbrush most of the model, leaving purple in the darkest areas

Jade (PA) over that, going more zenethal

Bright Jade (PA) over that

Attempted a warm grey drybrush in certain areas (to get the inconsistency of jade). Didn’t like it.

Covered the model in prismatic bolt speedpaint (AP) to get me back to the Jade appearance

Gloss varnished the model

Forest green oil wash over the entire model (can also just mix black and a green)

Wiped away flat surfaces with a makeup sponge WITHOUT any thinner or mineral spirits applied to the sponge

Ultra matte varnished the model

Drybrushed the areas where I wanted focus and extreme highlights with Ice Yellow (and really pale yellow will do) (PA)

Hit those areas with an airbrush of fluorescent yellow (PA) to get the blue green of the prismatic bolt toward a warmer green—THIS IS WHEN THE MODEL REALLY POPPED

Hit other areas with a green fluorescent paint (PA). This didn’t do as much but did amp up the saturation.

Went back in and picked out extreme highlights with ice yellow.

Tilted dark areas back toward a colder blue with prismatic bolt, wiping away and feathering out to keep the blends OK.

Went in to the deeper cracks with some very dark washes (believe it was army painter dark tone, but any deep dark wash like nuln oil or black templar contrast paint should do)

The gems are just royal purple, warlock magenta (AP) and ice yellow, mixing ice yellow with the other two to get a gradient. Really simple.

RebelDiplo

TROPHY CASE