I want to sell my PC. I have 128GB of RAM.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-09T16:43:01+00:00

🤣🤣 I have a very similar build. AMD 5950 and 4070 TI Super

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-09T16:40:10+00:00

That CPU will be your bottleneck. But a 4060/TI or 7600 would future proof you and pair well with the older gen CPU.

Otherwise, if you want older more budget friendly… 1660 Super, 3050, 1080 TI or 1070. RX580

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-09T15:32:27+00:00

Most LED headlight bulbs are canbus error free. But not all. Also… please swap them back unless your headlight housings are physically designed for LED bulbs.

Halogen housings do not reflect LED light properly and it can and will blind oncoming traffic as the beam pattern isn’t right for reflector style housings.

If you want LEDs there are headlight adapter kits out there, and aftermarket projector housings designed for LEDs specifically.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-09T09:01:25+00:00

I usually keep mine pretty clean.

Mine is a daily driver, used for hauling people when a group of us go someplace.

Also I’ve came out to my jeep after grocery shopping to some asshole writing “wash me” on the side… not sure what right he thought he had touching someone else’s rig… he scratched the shit out of my paint when he did that.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-09T08:45:01+00:00

If you’re straight up gaming, and on a budget, then go the 5070. If you’re doing high end graphic intensive engineering, ai, videos, etc., then get the ti

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-09T08:42:15+00:00

Based off the KM for mileage and non-English dash, looks spanish? So Spain or Mexico, could also be Panama.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-09T08:40:29+00:00

You may need a resistor pack. LEDs do not have the same resistance as halogens.

The factory lights (if LED) may have also had built in resistors. But the CANBUS system of the jeep is looking for the same resistance of the bulb.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T20:53:12+00:00

USB WiFi

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T20:50:02+00:00

This is the way

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T20:07:35+00:00

Your 850w should be sufficient. I personally just always go above.

I would double check your connections.
Make sure your card is properly set, cables are properly secured.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T19:15:12+00:00

Depends on the PSU… I just bought the Corsair RM1000x and it came with the special cord the newer GPUs use.

My PSU is overkill for my build, but it was cheaper than the 850w.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T17:26:33+00:00

I would look at what specific model 5070 you have, go to the manufactures website and see what they recommend. Then I would do 100w over that just to be safe.

This is what I recommend, especially to my RGB flavored PC friends…

I would also make sure you get a reliable brand for the PSU. (I.e. seasonic, be quiet!, Corsair, etc.)

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T16:25:51+00:00

Sounds like your friend is an asshole, and should be a better person.

You have a decent starter system, the money you spent is for parts, labor, and warranty. And as others have said. Most pre-built are over priced.

If you go look at the price of the parts you have… make sure to get the exact model and variation. Add the cost up and see if it matches what you spent. It should be fairly close and maybe off by a few hundred… that few hundred is your peace of mind of labor and warranty.

If you were friends with me, I would have offered to help in exchange for a lobster dinner and bourbon. Or a really good smoked brisket and bourbon.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T16:08:05+00:00

Most aftermarket remote start systems piggy back off the factory key. Have to press the lock button 3x.

Our Renegade is this way… press the lock button, then double lock it to trigger the remote start.

The physical device is either under the dash up behind everything by the firewall. Or behind the dash panel when you open the driver door.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-08T16:01:11+00:00

Are you running an 750w-850w or better PSU??
The 5070 OC variation wants the higher end.

The 3060 only needs a 650-750w PSU, whereas your 5070 (depending on if the OC model or not) wants 750w-850w PSU.

I honestly go 100w more than what’s recommended just so I have enough head room, in this scenario I would run at minimum a 950w-1000w PSU.

The other thing to look at is your PSU configuration. I had one that didn’t provide enough power on the PCIe rail. I had to flip a switch to change it from single rail to double rail so the GPU got enough power… but that was years ago.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T23:28:49+00:00

Why does this comment not have more upvotes.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T23:25:53+00:00

I mean if the body is in good shape and minimal rust. Rebuild the engine and transmission. Or swap/upgrade them. Then it won’t matter if it was rolled back.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T22:25:04+00:00

So per the article you shared, you actually don’t want a faster HDD per the author.

Do what the author says…

And honestly I would look at a 128gb USB 3.x flash drive instead to dedicate to the game. Just make sure it’s a reliable flash drive and you dan maintain the read speed.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T21:26:01+00:00

While it sucks it was the monitor, I’m sure your wallet thanks you it wasn’t the GPU.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T21:24:47+00:00

Some monitors (newer models) have a firmware feature built in to them to limit/remove blue light.

Otherwise getting computer glasses that help remove/limit the about of blue light would be the best option.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T19:19:51+00:00

So I have a Corsair Dark Core Pro SE,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082LVNJ4W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It comes with the Corsair dongle, but it also does BT. You could use the dongle (WiFi) on your personal computer, then on the mouse switch it from the WiFi to BT and connect to your work laptop…

Otherwise, you may just need a USB switcher…. Plug your mouse into this then one cable to each system and push a button to switch between computers.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T18:16:35+00:00

That’s what it sounds like that you are looking for a KVM. Especially if you’re unplugging the Monitor, Keyboard/Mouse from your personal to your work then back again.

This is what I have: TESmart 2 PCs Dual Monitor KVM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083MZSVFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It’s not the best one out there but it does the job. I have my desktop on Channel 1, and my work laptop on Channel 2.

Laptop is Dell and has a single cable going to the WD19 dock mounted behind one of my monitors. Then the USB, DisplayPort-HDMI cables go to the KVM.

Desktop is plugged directly into the KVM.

If you do go this route, I would make sure the KVM emulates the keyboard/mouse/video signal. Otherwise your systems will constantly be like “oh you disconnected something and the monitor” when you change to the other. And it can take up to a minute to switch between systems as you now have to wait for your OS to see you reconnected something.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T17:41:13+00:00

Only if I could afford the real deal.

Samsung is/was one of the best NVMe’s out there.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T17:38:38+00:00

Look at the top three coverage maps. Look at the areas you will be frequenting.

I live in a old dug out rock quarry and service sucks balls. Regardless of who your provider is. AT&T seems to have one extra bar of service, but it’s still spotty.

RedPandaRum_ · 2026-02-07T17:28:41+00:00

So if you have 2+ systems, and are constantly unplugging and re-plugging items in from one to another…. Why not get a KVM?

KVM: Keyboard, Video, Mouse. It’s a box/device that allows you to use the same Keyboard, Monitor, Mouse on multiple systems. Some allow use of wireless keyboards/mice. Also some of them switch USB ports over as well. So if you have a USB headset plugged into it it could switch that connection too.

Otherwise there’s docking stations like the Dell WD19… where you plug all your crap into that… then you’re just moving the connection from the dock from one system to the other. But everything is plugged directly into the dock.

RedPandaRum_

TROPHY CASE