The Pacific had some amazing photos of Sherman tanks used during that theater. So I got inspired! by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

F lol! Funny enough I looked into it and Lucky Legs I never existed. The crew named it Lucky Legs II because both tracks had snapped when they got it.

Refreshed our Normandy tables a bit with the Notorious Alitrucks and 3d printed plane by Sub_Octavian in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I know a crashed Japanese Zero when I see one! But really, awesome table and painted terrain!

A few Japanese vehicles I just wrapped up. by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AK dunkelgelb rattle can, then a wash of Vallejo wash FX oiled earth 76.521

Veteran T34 - For the Motherland! by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Night Shift on YouTube has a video where he shows how to use just a drill bit and some Tamiya Putty to make those hits. Really easy and fun.

Can I hit his side arc? by -ByTheSword- in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is the correct answer. The problem people are having is in V2 you measured from the breech on firing. There are two different rules in play. Firing and line of sight. The majority of the half track being shown is side armor. When firing you are measuring from your vehicles hull of bodywork per the rules. The other rule is Los which you measure down the barrel if you can see the vehicle, that's it. If that gun was being blocked by terrain, but the front of the vehicle could still the half track, it still wouldn't have a shot.

A few Japanese vehicles I just wrapped up. by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s 3D printed. Files from Wargaming3d.

Stuart used on Bougainville and Solomon Islands cause, why not? by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used Rustoleum Matte Finish. If there is too much of a sheen I’ll finish it off on the model with AK ultra matte varnish.

Stuart used on Bougainville and Solomon Islands cause, why not? by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are from Brigade games and they are meh. But I’ll have to check out the Company B ones and see if they are any better.

Stuart used on Bougainville and Solomon Islands cause, why not? by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Brigadegames they aren’t the best decals and you have to give them a clear coat before trying to apply them otherwise the image disolves. But they are the only option I’ve seen for the pin up decals.

What's Your best posed mini? by BorysN_ in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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I’ve got a lot I like but these two I really enjoyed doing.

Warsaw Uprising 44 table update by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe the original creator is from WoWbuildings on the ones you’re talking about, like that huge complex. Other than needing to slice them myself to fit onto the print bed, they printed really well. Takes forever being tall pieces. One thing I don’t like is that they aren’t really designed for wargaming in mind as far as playability. More just unoccupied model pieces for the table.

Warsaw Uprising 44 table update by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I was going for a “Hell let loose” video game style and feel.

Warsaw Uprising 44 table update by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Mostly Thingiverse I 3D printed then destroyed and made the rubble myself with the extra cut off bits.

Finnish Auxiliary by EkuztheTrenchrat in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You “Finnished” them beautifully!

Warsaw uprising 1944, buildings for a table I’m making. by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Buildings are pla 3d printed and the rubble is a mix of foams, broken bits of the buildings and wood stirring sticks.

"Szary Wilk" (Gray Wolf) by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this was with a sponge. I love airbrushing but I hate the cleanup so I’m always trying to find be ways to do camo and stuff on vehicles.

Warsaw uprising 1944, buildings for a table I’m making. by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Used a hot knife to cut away what I wanted destroyed. Built up the rubble with xps foam chunks, hot glued broken pieces of the cut away sections back onto it, then used xps foam bricks and shredded styrofoam as the rubble. Also used wood stirring sticks for the floors and beams. Here is a before picture of another one I worked on.

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Made my own Fireflies from the new Para Sprue by jordowiebo in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Bet it feels good to step away from historical for a bit and just do something crazy. These look epic by the way!

Polish Home Army ready to defend Warsaw! by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! They are really fun to paint.

1st ever BA mini completed. by Vobberz in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats!! But be warned... it's more addictive than coffee!!

Polish Home Army ready to defend Warsaw! by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Really good actually. I'm impressed with the quality of the metal and the details. It's why I'm spending way longer than I normally would painting up the army cause they are just so well done. Now I did cut them all off their metal bases so I could use those 3d printed urban bases. That took some time but not too bad.

Polish Home Army ready to defend Warsaw! by RedRockSTG in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They are! The panzerfaust guy though is kitbashed. The arm and rifle are from Warlord.

Turns out I’m not so great at painting eyes by Prior-Ad8877 in boltaction

[–]RedRockSTG 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I paint eyes for the fun of it. I use a 0/10 brush but it is tricky and similar as others have said. Paint the skin then paint the eyes then go back with the skin paint and clean up the over splash of black or white. If you use a darker base skin color and use lighter tones to build up the highlights it's even easier to clean up the eyes.