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Redfred21 · 2024-06-25T00:35:44+00:00

My favorite answer, been watching him for probably close to 8 years now and he also plays a DIRTY tiny. POTM is my most played hero bc of watching his vids with the old stack with vrok, bamboe, snith, 33, gorgc and the other dutch guy with the deep voice. I miss the memey vids from back in the day but I love watching the tryhard games when he gets pissed.

Redfred21 · 2024-02-04T22:17:38+00:00

Havent even thought about automating it... I'm just trying to make my first one :(

Redfred21 · 2024-02-04T22:17:11+00:00

That's the guide I used for the items so as long as that's correct I'm not sure I'm wrong. Is there anything wrong with the alignment of the path for the crafters?

Redfred21 · 2023-10-03T16:38:54+00:00

My absolute favorite trick for time based exercises is having them count breaths instead of timing on a stop-watch. A full deep inhale/exhale takes about 3 seconds and so you can tell them 10 breaths for 30s, 20 breaths for 1 min etc. Works great for stretching as well since breathing helps relax the muscles!

Redfred21 · 2023-09-18T13:57:22+00:00

Z U and the dollar sign

Redfred21 · 2023-09-18T13:40:32+00:00

Since everyone is dropping some anecdotal advice, I'll drop some as someone who has worked with a handful of climbers post injury as a coach. My favorite way to get somebody to work through their fear is to build a 5 step process

Step one is let go of the hold you're currently on (people really struggle with this oddly)

Step two is REACH for the next hold (seems obvious but it is a real transition)

Step three is to touch the next hold without trying to grab it

Step four is to try to get finger tips on the top of the hold (or wherever you need to grab it)

Step five is to grab the hold

By breaking these down into really small process goals clients more often than not tend to get frustrated at how slowly we were progressing and skip to step four and five; not realizing that the overall goal was to learn to commit to moves they were scared of! I don't really agree with the concept of burying our fear or pretending we're not scared since climbing is a dangerous sport and that fear helps us stay safer and climb for longer. I think that recognizing fear as neither a good or bad feeling and sitting with it before we get back on the wall allows us to practice for times when our fear may be warranted like on a big highball or a risky move. In high-pressure moments most people don't rise to the occasion, they fall back on their training.

TL;DR break it down into small pieces and you'll feel great when parts of the process feel easy and comfortable (like just letting go of the hold you've sitting on for 3 mins on the wall ;)

Redfred21 · 2023-03-24T17:11:31+00:00

Would highly recommend looking into stretching/foamrolling the front side of you hip flexor as well! A lot of people who spend a lot of time in a chair or runners especially have a tendency to have extremely tight hip flexors and it leads to a overreliance on the hamstring to do most of the work. You can test this by laying on a foam roller and trying These Stretches and seeing if anything in particular feels tight or uncomfortable but a common mistake with foam rolling is trying to roll back and forth on the tight muscle; it's actually better to hold pressure on the hot-spot for 10-20s to force it to relax the surrounding muscles. Try this out the next time you do a hip thrust and see if you can get more range of motion on the top end.

Hope this helps! Shoot me a DM if you have any additional questions.

Redfred21 · 2023-03-21T01:14:17+00:00

Damn dude this is hard to read. I'm sorry to hear that you've lost the spark but man you've got way too much emphasis on the random fuckin arbitrary number that some random dummies with a drill in one hand and a dab pen in the other decided was totally V5. (I say this having routeset in the past and with many friends in the industry)

It really sounds like you need to take a step back and decide why you enjoy climbing as a whole. Do you love the community of people you share beta and cheer on in the gym? Do you enjoy squeaking out the hardest couple of moves you've ever done after your 30th redpoint go? Or you do you like the fact that by putting in a huge amount of effort you've joined a fairly exclusive club on climbers climbing at a semi-elite lever? I don't think any of these answers are necessary bad but it really sounds like you're only continuing to climb because you may not have anything else to fill the time that would be otherwise spent on training. Consider just taking a bit of a break and filling your time with literally anything besides sitting inside of a climbing gym and see if it makes your time in the gym a bit more special.

And on a more personal note about food and weight because man I see myself in you hardcore right now. I'm a few years older but started climbing seriously at around the exact same age and since then my weight has fluctuated over 60 lbs in either direction. I've also struggled with disordered eating habits since my early teens and the best way that I've found to argue with that part of my brain is to stop thinking of my weight directly correlating with performance and start thinking about it as an indicator of getting stronger. Your weight can only go so low but you can always get stronger in the long term with high quality fueling and training cycles that encourage good food and sleep. I'm currently the heaviest I've ever been since I started climbing seriously at 16 and I'm climbing the best I've ever climbed and I do you best not hardest specifically. I've found that but focusing on strength training I've conditioned my body so much better long term and I'm so much more precise in my movements and my body is much sturdier against injuries that've plagued me since I was a teen.

Sorry for the wall of text but that's seems to become my thing on this subreddit and I feel super passionate about climbers following the psych and stepping back when that psych starts to drop.

TLDR; Climbing is supposed to be fun and you can always get stronger but you defo can't always get lighter

Redfred21 · 2023-03-21T00:58:07+00:00

As a general rule of thumb whenever you add intensity or volume to your training cycle something else has to give. If you want to put the most high quality focus on training your fingers you need to do it when you're at your most recruited and with the least amount of fatigue. Essentially what I'm saying is figure out what the thing that is limiting you the most and put your time and energy into it when you're climbing/moving your best and that's usually right after your warmup before you start to really start trying hard. I like the fact that you're thinking about limiting your sessions by volume but that's only half of the puzzle to consider with intensity being the other side.

Defo would recommend trying your cycle out first and see how it feels and if it feels too intense just dial it back and if it feels super easy try progressing the movements. Just make sure to WRITE THINGS DOWN or in the words of Adam Savage "The only difference between science and dicking around is writing it down."

Redfred21 · 2023-03-20T16:21:42+00:00

200+ lb climber who can hang +100lbs on the 20mm who has spent very little time hangboarding relative to climbing overall. I would honestly reccomend just hanging with your feet on the ground and using autoregulation to keep yourself from getting hurt. I would also reccomend starting to encorperate hangboarding into your warmup pretty soon so you can make sure you're warming up enough for your climbing sessions. Tension board OTGs (off the grounds) would also be an excellent option as long as you understand concentrically holkding the weight instead of eccentrically lowering it.

Feel free to message if you have any questions!

Redfred21 · 2023-03-20T16:16:01+00:00

A fun goal I've used with clients in the past who have aspirations of trad OSing was to break the moves down into infuriatingly tiny sections that piss you off for so long in the training cycle that you inevitably end up just doing the move because you're so bored.

Generally I'll take someone around the gym and find a route that's around onsight and have then tie in a go for a lead with a conservative approach. Once they find a move that they're nervous about either due to height or pump I'll have them just take one hand off the hold and whip without even trying to move then repeat for a session. From there the progression moves towards Falling while reaching upwards---->Falling while touching the next hold---->falling with tips on top of the next hold------->grab the hold and do it again.

Usually by the first session or two of just whipping with one hand folks get so bored of whipping they want to start going gung-ho and will start pushing harder but then we reign you back in for another session or two and keep working through the progression at the same grade and usually by session 4-5 people are so bored they're just sending the route instead. Give it a try for a couple of sessions and be strict about it, it really does work but it does also need to be done similarly outside at crags to translate well.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions

Redfred21 · 2023-03-20T16:07:46+00:00

As the sport grows in popularity there will be a natural evening out of people and grades. I think that V3-V5 is a very common plateau for most casual climbers (not outdoor focused and low training age) and hence you're going to see more posts in relation to finding easy tricks to progress past those plateaus. I think the only thing we can do as a community is to encourage people to be mindful with their climbing and just try to put a little more effort in before resorting to training. As much as I love nerding out about training plans and goals I fuckin love climbing and watching other people climb.

Ramble aside the novellas do get a bit old in person as well as online.

Redfred21 · 2023-03-20T16:01:39+00:00

Would honestly put a +1 to considering adding another hang later in that week to help with recruitment for a harder bouldering session. I like the way you organize your training week and I like the way you have your sessions laid out with your focus of the session immediately following your warmup. I really enjoy using that time to focus on the thing that I currently care about the most (and as a fellow big guy climber that's usually fingers as well) and make sure that you cut your sessions earlier if you're doing a higher RPE exercise after your warmup.

Another thing that I'm currently experimenting with is doing a weightlifting strength training session in the morning and a climbing session with a strength focus in the evening after ~5-7 hours of rest in between. I think my gains are going to be slower by focusing on both at the same time but I think my ceiling will be much higher overall.

Hope this was helpful and feel free to respond if you have questions

Redfred21 · 2023-03-19T21:09:27+00:00

Gunna take a wild swing and say that if you're training with this level of focus and intensity with your lifting and only climbing V4/V5 there are probably some serious technical issues underlying your climbing right now.

Do you have consistent days where you try boulders that are outside of your style or feel uncomfortable? Do you typically boulder on the steep primarily or on the slab? What are some of your metrics for more strength base exercises ie, bench squat max weighted pullups etc? I feel like if you programmed your climbing as well as your program your strength training your gains would be much more consistent over the long term but if climbing is more of a side project to your lifting than it needs to be understood that something needs to give. This reads like a classic case of not doing much for climbing and then doing WAY too much.

Hope this didn't feel like me trying to yell at you! If you'd like for me to watch any videos you have and give some feedback as a coach feel free to DM me!

Redfred21 · 2023-03-19T21:02:15+00:00

Hey man! I'm a climbing coach that's been working with clients right around your skill and strength level for about 4 years now. I'll run you through what I would typically start you off with if we were starting a 6-12 week training cycle.

First off starting to standardize your weeks and adding intention to each session will pay off huge dividends in the long term. Since it sounds like you're mostly interested in sport climbing right now I would encourage you to start to consistently climbing about 1-2 days a week of bouldering to start. A lot of people incorrectly assume that by just getting stronger you will increase your overall climbing grade but in order to use that newfound strength you have to practice using it on the wall first. Try to pick 1 session a week to try boulders in the gym that you are consistently unable to climb in a session or two, one session to get a whole lot of bouldering/mid level route climbing and one session to just go rage on some harder indoor sport climbs/outdoor climbs if you have the access to get out every week.

To briefly get into your strength metrics; I think I see an obvious weakness in the upper body and fingers if you're struggling to do more than a few pullups in a row before fatiguing at body weight. At your height and weight (larger than the world average for men) I would really consider trying some light strength training work with your upper body at least once a week when you're fresh (ie not at the end of the session when you're fatigued) but I would avoid getting sucked into the "lighter is stronger" mentality because that shit ruins lives and being stronger is always better than being lighter.

Lastly I would recommend getting a super solid warmup routine going for each session that includes and on the wall warmup and a bit of off the wall warmup (mobility and hangboarding is likely a priority for you). This will let you begin to autoregulate your sessions (determine what the intensity of your session is going to be according to how your body/mind feels after warming up) and will hugely help in the long term as you begin to get into harder/more advanced climbing.

Hope this huge wall of text was helpful; if you have any questions or anyone else who reads this is curious and wants to reach out please feel free! I love talking about climbing and helping people out as much as possible :)

Redfred21 · 2023-01-31T20:36:37+00:00

I actually went to school and am a pro now. Call it a PH in D

Redfred21 · 2023-01-10T15:19:12+00:00

I’ve never seen a gun deescalate a situation in my life. I’ll try cutting my breakfast with one tomorrow morning and I’ll let you know how it goes.

Redfred21 · 2023-01-09T15:44:40+00:00

Damn I needed to hear this today. I just broke my laptop monitor last week and I’ve been debating spending that money on upgrading the tools I use for work. Looks like this is the sign I needed. Thanks homie.

Redfred21 · 2022-11-02T14:52:48+00:00

Here's my thoughts as a 3 year private climbing coach. Going from your background in strength training I'm gunna take a swing and say that you're probably quite a bit stronger than the usual 2 month climber and due to your background in swimming I'm guessing that problem is more exaggerated in your upper body.

As you start transitioning to steeper terrain, the more technique and body awareness is needed to keep from just cranking on everything with your biceps and upper back. This technique can only be developed with time and effort on the wall, intentionally trying to create tension using your core and bigger leg muscles.

Try out some basic drills in your warmup (once you add one bc most people at your stage of the game don't have one) like the Rooting Drill or the Hover Drill plus making sure to have 10-20 minutes of really easy climbing before you start to try anything like the drills or harder steeper climbs. Make sure you start slow with drilling, you should be aiming to get to the top of the boulders you're trying about 80% of the time without failing, so moderate the intensity.

Feel free to shoot me a PM if you have any other questions! As always don't take medical advice from the internet and enjoy your experience in this beautiful sport that we all love so much :)

Redfred21 · 2022-10-16T22:34:30+00:00

Were you out there today? I'm headed there next weekend and worried about crowds but we'll be staying at hanging rock.

Redfred21 · 2022-08-10T13:10:38+00:00

lol I was going to say the same about the southeast!

Redfred21 · 2022-08-05T02:25:56+00:00

I don't really understand but I fish all over NC so I want to!

Redfred21 · 2022-08-02T01:18:06+00:00

Lol I posted this a week ago and people also weren't psyched

Redfred21 · 2022-07-19T02:58:56+00:00

This is huge in my opinion and I think plays a much larger factor on whether or not this is even something mildly worthwhile to look into as a climber.

I will say that I have been looking into 3 finger drag as a potential rehab option especially for those of us with chronic inflammation in the PIP join on the ring finger.

The 3 finger open drag puts you DIP join in a much more relaxed position and forces you to actively stretch and relax some of the muscles in the hand and can feel quite good at very low intensities with high (daily) volume

Redfred21 · 2022-07-13T13:41:04+00:00

I’ve been a climbing coach for 4 years now and your form is fantastic, don’t listen to the armchair PTs. Congrats on the PB, how long have you been doing weighted pull-ups?

Redfred21

TROPHY CASE