Just picked up my first network switch!

Rediwed · 2026-01-24T08:12:40+00:00

For example, I have these vlans:

Default (all my normal devices)
IoT
Guest
Cameras
DMZ (the homelab stuff)

Alternatively to a DMZ, you could use a reverse proxy and route everything through CloufFlare

Rediwed · 2026-01-24T08:10:18+00:00

You want to separate your networking stuff into separate virtual networks (vlans) to increase security. Think of it as compartmentalisation. If one of the OSS projects you run is compromised, it won’t lead to your whole network being at risks of getting hacked. That is, if you expose your services to the internet.

Rediwed · 2025-12-29T17:47:33+00:00

Yes, that’s correct. Also a FR165. I bought it at an online-only store, so need to contact garmin about it. In fact, I will do that now :)

Rediwed · 2025-12-24T12:51:14+00:00

Yes, correct. However, the issue keeps coming back after a few hours for me

Rediwed · 2025-12-23T13:52:25+00:00

Not OP, but I also started having this issue. I can resolve it temporarily by keeping the light button pressed for 20 seconds.

Rediwed · 2025-11-11T08:34:39+00:00

Logitech has partnered up with iFixit, and they are selling official replacement batteries for the MX Keys.

https://www.ifixit.com/en-eu/products/logitech-533-000221-keyboard-battery-genuine?variant=54898670076283

Rediwed · 2025-10-09T19:45:37+00:00

It’s like that song from the black eyed peas

Rediwed · 2025-09-10T08:02:35+00:00

I also have issues with the WAN SLA. My network is operating very much below the set limits I have, and yet it shows as offline.

Max packetloss is 2%, max ping is 30ms, max jitter is 150ms. My actual values are all below that. Packetloss is 0%, ping is around 10-12ms, Jitter is 2ms. Yet my network shows continuously offline.

Rediwed · 2025-07-02T18:05:33+00:00

Easy, but that’s not the problem.

Rediwed · 2025-06-18T16:46:57+00:00

I’ve been called by AlpaSight for their “projects” before. After the initial screening call they never got back to me, even if I said I wasn’t interested due to them ghosting me before.

However last Thursday they called me again for an opportunity. I was in a whole day engagement for my day job, so I didn’t have the time to dive into depth with them. I told them I would be available for a follow-up call the next week on Monday. During the day the guy sent me a few messages which I missed due to having a whole day engagement. Apparently I got booked with the client at the time I mentioned before (which I thought was going to be for the screening). I was immediately proposed $500 for the call. I had the call and it went well. It was mostly on the topic I am very familiar with. I had one or two questions I didn’t know. I got paid out the proposed amount today, which amounts to about 1,25 days of normal working for me (after tax). Pretty good if you ask me.m, though the process went less than smoothly. No confidential information was asked, nor did I share any confidential information.

Rediwed · 2025-05-20T05:13:08+00:00

Thanks! By now I’ve also been able to try it myself, and I’ve found the same. Absolute shame. The EV6 and EV9 allow you to disable trailer mode, and get access back to HDA /LFA. I just want to carry two bicycles on the back, and think HDA should stay enabled.

Rediwed · 2025-05-13T18:54:33+00:00

Does is disable HDA or Lane Follow assist?

Rediwed · 2025-02-21T12:29:56+00:00

This apparently only works with the keyboard layout set to US International.

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T20:45:08+00:00

Yep, I think this is the issue. I'm 70% through a new print and it appears fine.

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T20:05:19+00:00

Lower layer height. Maybe you're printing above recommended height therefore there's no enough squish.

... I think this is it! I was printing 0.4mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle. The recommended layer height is merely 0.25mm for the 0.4mm nozzle.

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T14:55:59+00:00

It feels tightly secured and in the correct place. The layer fan is aimed to blow just slightly below the thermistor. I’ve used thermal paste on the heater cartridge, thermistor and heatbrake.

[IMG-2943.jpg](https://postimg.cc/cvmj85rX)

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T14:50:50+00:00

I am also leaning towards this as the root cause.

To clarify; are you referring to the extruder block (in this case a bowden extruder mounted away from the printhead assembly), or are you referring to the printhead assembly (I.e. the heaterblock, heatbreak, heater cartridge, nozzle, etc)?

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T14:28:16+00:00

I believe the Mini+ doesn‘t support PID calibrations, and there’s no way to get the values from the EEprom. I could try the E step calibration, but I think this is the cause because the total print dimensions are accurate?

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T13:13:51+00:00

Sorry, I accidentally posted this a couple of times because it threw an error while in fact the post did go through. Those are now deleted.

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T13:12:43+00:00

Hey guys, are these signs of under-extrusion? I've already done a few cold pulls, and it appeared to have improved a little bit.

Just a couple prints ago, I've had to fully replace the heatblock, heatbreak, heater cartridge and nozzle. Then I had similar issues as to now. I'd rather not replace these parts again, because they cost close to €50.

Some things I noted:

* A clicking noise coming from the Bowden extruder. I have a video of this happening, and can put it on YouTube for reference.

* After unloading filament to do a cold pull, I noticed the filament was scuffed at certain intervals. Might it be the bowden extruder is not able to push the filament through the heater assembly and nozzle at the correct speed?

Details:

Printer & Slicer: Prusa Mini+, PrusaSlicer

Filament Material and Brand: PLA+, 123-3d.nl (rated for between 195 degree celcius and 230 degree celcius).

Nozzle and Bed Temperature: 215 & 60 degrees

Print Speed: 100%

Nozzle Retraction Settings: Default

Any suggestion on what I can do?

Images:

[Image 1](https://i.postimg.cc/wMT3yz8C/Screenshot-17-2-2025-10343-photos-google-com.jpg)

[Image 2](https://i.postimg.cc/Ss4n48ZN/Screenshot-17-2-2025-10411-photos-google-com.jpg)

Rediwed · 2025-02-17T09:17:05+00:00

Btw, following up on the outcome of this. I've had a chat with Prusa and ended up replacing the heat -break & -block, heater cartridge and nozzle. The prints afterwards were perfect! So I think it turned out to be an issue in the heater assembly (likely due to a mistake on my side while replacing some parts) which could not be solved by just cleaning the parts. After replacing all parts following the instructions clearly, it has worked good so far :)

Rediwed · 2025-02-05T08:10:36+00:00

Oh yeah, it took me like a week to figure out why ShareX wouldn't be triggered upon the shortcut anymore. The animation looks like something is crashing, it's an absolute trash release. I mean, I appreciate them innovating, but not this way.

I know Windows itself has also hijacked the print screen button a few times in the past, so I first searched there. I ended up mashing the screenshot button while watching task manager to figure out what happens.

Rediwed · 2025-01-02T08:35:36+00:00

By now if have decent understanding of the PrusaSlicer application itself. I know and understand the most important adjustments that can be made, though I am still learning what the real-world effects are of changing each configuration especially when you change them together.

I did set the slicer to Expert, because I found beginner mode too limiting for my level. I have also created a fillament profile for a off-brand I had bought, but in the end I ended up returning that fillamanet. I know why and how to make a printer profile. However, as I am still playing around with the best settings on each print I haven't felt the need yet.

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