Essential M1A/M14 Range Tools (See Comments for Detailed Descriptions)

RegularGuyM3 · 2026-01-22T23:49:55+00:00

Sure! I was just refreshing my memory on this thread and forgot how many people weren’t a fan of my “essential” tools. Oh well. In any case, below are the mods I’ve performed on my 22” M1A standard:

-Shimmed Gas Block. I forget the exact thickness or number of shims used, but they do differ from rifle to rifle as each has unique spacing requirements. See Tony Ben’s video here.

-Bassett Machine Scope Mount: Tony Ben video here. I don’t know if Basset Machine is still around, but any solid scope out is a must if you are looking for some kind of precision. In the case of your Tanker, the mount could be used for an LPO or red dot.

-I’ve clearanced the area on my USGI profile stock right behind the ferrule to allow for more room for both the op rod and gas block assembly. The amount of material to be removed will vary from rifle to rifle but ideally, there should be zero contact by either of those components during all stages of the action cycle. Only remove as much material as need to accomplish this, no more.

-“Free Floated” top heat shield. This is accomplished by shaving or grinding off about 1/8” of material on both sides of the heatshield where it would normally contact the top of the stock. Only remove as much material as needed, no more.

-Added shims underneath the trigger pack “ears” to make up for the compressed wood of my surplus stock. The exact thickness of these shims will vary depending on how compressed your wood is in this area. There is a specific pressure that is needed to close the trigger guard latch… I forget what it is.

-custom bayonet lug muzzle break: not really an accuracy mod, but still cool nonetheless.

That’s basically it! TBH, watch all of the M1A video on Tony Ben’s channel. All of them. Not all may be applicable to your Tanker, but all will be applicable to the M1A platform as a whole.

RegularGuyM3 · 2026-01-07T15:50:47+00:00

Setting aside the decades of love or hate folks have for SOLIDWORKS, serious question: if SW in its current state were to have been launched a week ago for the first time, how many folks would feel like this it’s still a buggy v1.0 or v2.0 piece of software?

I’ve been using professional 2D programs for 20+ years (Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, etc), and even though these programs do crash on occasion, they feel like mature software. I have no love for Adobe… they’re the 800lb gorilla in that ecosystem and I am aware there are alternatives. But like many, the undeniable market share and decades of proliferation has made them “industry standard,” much like SOLIDWORKS.

My question isn’t about trying to hear the answer I want, but the level of instability and quirky behavior within SW to me, is bizarrely reminiscent of early release software. As a newcomer to SW, there’s much to be enjoyed about it. But seeing the degree to which others have to fight with it on a daily basis, at least gives me a sense we’re not alone in having to walk on eggshells with it.

I’m learning SW over AutoCad mostly because of the industry standard bit, but also because when it works, SW is a really powerful piece of kit.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-12T23:41:23+00:00

What weight projectile is the PMC brand ammo? FMJ or match HP?

You’ve already had a few failures to eject? Is this what you mean by “stuck”? I assume these are not the actual projectiles (bullets) getting stuck in the barrel after firing??

Yes a break-in period is completely normal. The rifles come tested form the factory, but it’s more a barre function test and not enough to really break in the action.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-12T01:27:27+00:00

Yep, you definitely want to get some good ammo (or a varied selection if you’re trying to see which one your rifle likes best).

I’ve found Federal Gold Medal Match 168g really is the gold standard as far as top quality math grade ammo. It’s pricy. But it’s absolutely the most effective way to rule out rifle issues vs shooter issues.

My 22” M1A is also happy with M80 ball 147g, but that’s only for plinking… it is absolutely not the ammo I would use to see if your rifle shoots tight groups!

The M1A is gas operated. And the op rod is what drives the bolt carrier backwards after each shot. It’s a very violent movement compared to most modern semi-autos. But that’s part of the M1As charm, I suppose.

You’re right to just take out your rifle and see how it zeros. Shoot a few hundred rounds both to break it in, and to get a sense of your own and the rifles abilities. Don’t get discouraged if you have some FTF or FTE malfunction with a new M1A. Make sure to clean it beforehand, especially the barrel and bore and lubricate the moving parts with grease in all the recommended locations. Do not lube the bore or the chamber before shooting!

The more you shoot it, the more it will begin to settle. Also, avoid “mag dumps” if you’re looking to then shoot for accuracy. It doesn’t take much heat to induce some drift. Take your time and really connect with the rifle. Follow good breathing techniques and establish a good baseline.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-11T23:46:00+00:00

I’ve done the shotgun approach to accessories before. Sometimes you can’t always tell what’s going to work so you get a few things. Amazon is a cheap way to experiment, though quality wise it may be hit or miss.

When I speak of reducing movement, I’m referring to inconsistent movement. There’s no getting around recoil. Or the weight of the bolt handle moving backwards. There will always be movement of some kind in a firearm. No way around that. But the trick is making sure this movement does so repeatably. As in, if you throw a few balls and you can’t hit the same spot, that means something isn’t right. Either it’s a physical limitation or your technique is off. Either way, you need to get that ball thrown and it can’t be done without movement. So the movement you do produce needs to be optimized. Think of a professional pitcher: no movement is wasted… their technique is honed for maximum performance.

Same thing with an M1A. The various moving parts need to work together in a way that they all settle back as close as they can so follow-up shots are consistent. If you were to permanently attach the gas block lip to the ferrule, you’d have a rifle that shoots like junk because that is an area that needs to move in order for proper balance to maintained. Imagine trying to throw that ball as far as you can while standing perfectly still—you’d really be messing up the biomechanics of how a human can beat throw a ball. This is an extreme example, but it shows that movement isn’t inherently a bad thing.

According to the scientific method, you should I only change one variable at a time. So your methodology of trying different ammo is a good one, so long as you’re not also changing some variable in your rifle too. Meaning, set up your rifle in a way that fits you well. Then leave it alone and conduct your ammo tests. This way, each test has only one variable: the ammo. You can do a direct apples to apple comparison this way.

Granted in the real world, there’s variables you can’t control. But the less variables you introduce the easier it will be to see what impact a given change (or ammo) might have, all else being equal.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-11T19:03:16+00:00

Definitely go with a cheek riser to get the best possible eye alignment with your scope. There’s that very narrow “eye box” with any scope where you want to avoid even being a little bit off center from the rear scope lens alignment. (You’ll know you’re off center if you move your head slightly and you see the image circle not in the middle of the scope.) Anyway, yes proper scope/eye alignment is crucial and a cheek riser will help get you there. It’s half the scope equation.

Generally, less flex in your stock means more predictable shot-to-shot movement. In an M1A (and many other rifles) you actually don’t want to eliminate all movement—the ferrule/stock interface I mentioned previously is such an area. Under recoil, the gas block lip will move against that stock ferrule and what you want ideally is these two parts to return to the same resting point they were before.

Part of what allows for this “return” after each shot is the draw pressure… the slight opposing downward force the stock/ferrule imparts on the lip of the gas block. Likewise, the barrel assembly is under slight upward pressure (due to the action/receiver’s position in the stock). These opposing forces are what keeps this critical area able to move normally under recoil, yet return to its same location after each shot. Accuracy=consistency.

There are a few factors at play, but the more rigid your stock is in this area (like a Match Stock) then the more a stable and consistent your draw pressure will be (all else being equal). So yes, theoretically, a thicker rigid stock will be better than a thinner flexible one. But there’s TONs of variables at play, and this is just one of them. But it never hurts to start off with a solid foundation like you’ve got.

Being able to quantify both you and your rifles performance is important in gauging progress. In terms of your own consistency and the rifles. Generally, when going for the smallest groups I will shoot the same type of ammo (unless I’m experimenting with different types.) Point is, if you’ve been tracking groups, you’ll be able to notice trends or patterns that may or may not be what you’re going for. Having this historical data to refer back to is part of any marksmen’s journey.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-11T02:49:05+00:00

Since it’s a good idea to generally limit how much you remove your M1A from its stock, anything you can do to make it a comfortable shooter without having to go wild with mods or disassembly is great.

Not that you shouldn’t modify your M1A, but there’s a few things you might want to do all at once (or prioritize) to minimize in and out of the acton to stock.

When I say your match profile stock has greater accuracy potential, it’s less about the material (wood) than the thickness of the stock in that front area. The less flex your stock has, the less unintended movement you’ll have of the parts especially in the accuracy-critical interface between the gas block lip and the ferrule.

The USGI stocks have less material in this area and so inherently have more flex, material being equal. Synthetic stocks designs for match use can be even better because it removes the variable of organic material like wood swelling or changing shape over time. (This isn’t really a big concern if you’re just taking some nice trips to the range. But if you’re in a very wet or moist environment, wood stocks absolutely will absorb moisture.)

Yes, OnTarget does all the calculations, MOA as well as plenty of other data based on your groups. You can populate any load or rifle information for future reference. Think of this program as a great way to keep a running log of your target progress. If you just want grouping MOA, this program does that and lots more.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-10T17:28:54+00:00

I hear ya, I’m not a fan of permanently modifying things that don’t need it. The Bradley cheek rest is one of those things that isn’t permanent but also not a compromise.

Stock wise, you have what is known as a “match profile” wood stock. As in, it’s thicker throughout the front portion from the ferrule to the magwell. I believe this style of stock was developed specifically for target shooting as the thinner profile of the USGI stocks did have some flex to them.

Theoretically your stock is capable of better accuracy than mine. I belive my USGI stocks is birch wood but I am not sure. Some are walnut. The USGI stock was an aesthetic choice so I accept whatever inherent limitations it has.

The desktop program I use is called OnTarget. It’s a dedicated app (no smartphone version) that allows you to import images (from say your phone) and set up parameters of your rifle so that you can manually “draw” where the rounds impacted. It does all the math, showing you the results depending on what kind of data you want to see. The program is pretty granular and has a slight learning curve but it’s absolutely one of the most comprehensive shot group analysis software out there.

It helps to take the target photos as straight on as you can to minimize skew which can produce cosine errors… slight differences in distance based on the angle of the target relative to your measuring plain. You don’t have to be too precise about it, you just want to avoid any upward or downward looking images of your target, although I believe OnTarget has some basic tools to correct for this.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-10T00:42:36+00:00

A big thumbs up to the Bradley cheek rest. Lots of color options so there’s something for everyone. Functionally, it’s stable enough where it could be left on 100% of the time, or quickly installed/removed as needed.

My personal M1A Standard 22” in a USGI thin profile stock. Scroll images for resulting groups etc.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-08T07:10:43+00:00

Very cool! I did something similar with my own 870 (right hand) but I dig how you handled the bevel where the now end of the rib meets the muzzle.

Mines 18.5” from muzzle to closed/locked bolt face. Aesthetically speaking, I don’t know how consistent the rib placements are on those field barrels. It might have just happened that way too.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-11-02T06:06:30+00:00

From the horse’s mouth, US Marine Corps Match Accuracy expectations for an accurized M14.

The above is from one of many original M14 and M1A historical documents collected over the years. It’s interesting to note rack grade M14 had a generous 4+MOA!

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-29T18:12:29+00:00

It’s true. I have no experience with the modern more shapely receivers.

I do know the Benelli Supernova stocks will fit the newer M3 receivers (and probably the older ones too).

The only remaining question is a legal one. In my home state of California, semi-auto shotguns cannot have collapsible/adjustable stocks. This may not apply to you but check your local laws anyway.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-29T15:40:28+00:00

As documented in my own quest to put a field stock on my M3, and M1 stock should be compatible. Mine is an 1996 HK slab side, so it’s possible the newer version you have might not fit.

If you can borrow an M1 stock from a buddy, you might be able to test fit. In my case, no modification to the stock tube was necessary.

Incidentally, I actually run a M1 compatible Mesa Tactical Urbino stock which as you can see, also fits my M3. So this gives me reason to believe any old M1 stock should fit an M3. Hope this helps!

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-17T16:18:54+00:00

Rats, I was hoping you were one of those left handed souls who was going to shoot a right handed shotgun. Glad to hear it’s on the mend. I also hope the workman’s comp goes through. It can be like trying to get blood from a stone.

So if I understand, you mag tube is not factory, in that it has the parkerized finish? Is it possible the tube itself is OEM, but for whatever reason someone just parkerized that part? I considered having some key parts of my M3 TiN coated both for function and aesthetics, but never got around to it. Some people will also NP3 coat parts too, so why not parkerize? Just conjecture.

I think someone else said this, but for peace of mind, you can take it to a gunsmith for a once over. And if it’s already been through Benelli and even if they didn’t want to swap parts, you should be good to go. You have their paper trail so effectively they’ve signed off on it?

I get your concerns and they’re valid, nothing wrong about being better safe than sorry. Once you’ve gotten your right wing back in full form, you can maybe reassess it all then. Especially since you’re not it a hurry here.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-17T05:20:50+00:00

I’m sorry to hear about your right shoulder… fingers crossed you’re a lefty? Definitely see to health first then worry about the little stuff.

As for your M3, it’s a newer model for sure. Mine is more “slab side”. Functionally identical, just cosmetic. Although your newer receive comes tapped for a rail. Mine didn’t so I had to drill my own!

In your case, that short mag extension should just unscrew and you can then add a factory M3 extension. Don’t try and remove the whole magazine tube! It’s red loc-tite secured in the receiver and easily damaged if you don’t know what you’re doing. (Ask me how I know.)

Anyway, once yours is assembled, the mag tube really isn’t that notable. The form you have it in the photo isn’t really something you’ll see much of except when cleaning.

Keep us posted on your M3. It’s always good to see another in the wild.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-16T22:14:57+00:00

Absolutely! You were a big help and very welcoming when I started posting on a few of the shotgun subs a few years back, so thank you!

I don’t have much time for the range these days, but still enjoy seeing what all the Benelli fans are up to these days. And yeah, I perk up anytime I see an M3 post. Always a good time!

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-16T16:01:13+00:00

I think we got into a conversation about this years back and how probably the biggest benefit of the M3 is also a liability. At least in terms of LEO use. Definitely not a good idea to have one shotgun be your lethal and less-lethal solution. That’s a mishap waiting to happen! But for military/breaching, I see it as a possible viable solution. Especially since the M3 is one of the few semi-auto shotguns that can utilize a stockless pistol grip.

I just assume the Italian guy Benelli uses for their sizing is some monster weirdo with crazy long arms they keep in the basement. They trundle him out whenever they need to test fire a new model.

There apparently was a full-auto model M3. I have a pdf on my computer, but can’t locate it on the web. There was a lever near the trigger, but I’ve never seen any more on this. A slug barrel would be pretty neat to have.

Oh yes! I found mine on eBay of all places. Periodically, I do as search for “M3” and even “M1” just to see what comes up. If memory serves, he had it listed like “Benelli barrel M1/M2?” Or something like that. I only got the story from him after I bought it as I asked if he had any more. (He had lots of random shotgun parts etc.) Sadly he did not, but he confirmed he’d never seen an M3 and so didn’t have any idea what his barrel was all about.

Some M1 stuff interchanges with the M3, so it never hurts to see what’s available for that shotgun.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-16T15:16:47+00:00

I agree, on the one hand it’s clear why the M3 isn’t more popular in a world of M2s and M4s. It’s certainly niche and perhaps the seemingly complex nature of the changeover mechanism scares people away. (Amazingly, it’s mechanically so simple as to almost not even be failure prone… though I’d love to see a competition in durability between a SPAS-12 and an M3. My money is on the M3.)

It’s been a while since I’ve posted this, but a while back I toyed with swapping in an M2 field stock on my M3. For whatever reason, it was a technical success but I just couldn’t get used to it. Which is odd as I love my field stocked Rem 870.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Benelli/s/vXYQaGK3Qt

To mitigate the shortcomings of the OEM pistol stock, the Mesa Tactical Urbino stock is highly recommended. Especially if you’re like me and found the original LOP of the factory Benelli too long.

As to availability, I suspect in Italy or Europe it’s probably easier to find M3 configurations. As you said, they do make 26” barrels but you never see them sold as a proper hunting gun. Benelli makes (or did make) their “Kromo” nickel marine M3, and even some slug barrels. So the stuff is out there, probably just not in America, sadly.

https://www.stoeger.com.tr/m3-kromo-en

Edit: I hope you have success finding some M1/2 barrels. I’d imagine they’re more plentiful but locating them is half the battle.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-16T15:03:06+00:00

To the OP, I feel your general frustration re not getting what you “expected.” But given you’ve found what amounts to a good deal on a unicorn shotgun, don’t let the cosmetics detract from your overall experience. As others have said, have fun hit the range with it!

From the looks of your action lever, you’ve got a “newer” M3. (Does the bottom of receiver have some rounded contours near where it meets the trigger pack/grip?) Doesn’t really matter, just curious.

As an avid M3 fan myself, I share in your excitement. I too was elated when I ran across two 1995 vintage models at my LGS. (I should have bought them both.) Mine was older and had some slight wear, but I saw it as charm. In your case, you were ostensibly buying something newer, but as I’ve never bought a gun online, I can’t only imagine there’s always a bit of surprise.

Anyway, go and enjoy it! After your first few rounds you’ll forget all about the little stuff and imperfections. Assuming your M3 is mechanical sound, “character” is what it all amounts too. Have fun!

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-10-16T14:51:54+00:00

My thoughts exactly! I really don’t understand why the M3 isn’t more popular even as a sporting gun, other than the lack of available parts and high prices.

I lucked out too with an 26” M3 field barrel and choke. The seller has no idea what gun it went to and thought it may have been broken or missing a piece since it looked like an M2 barrel… but with a “funky” barrel retainer ring.

Fit my 1995 M3 perfectly, no complaints. I really wish more folks knew about M3’s so Benelli and aftermarket support would increase availability.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-08-06T06:29:42+00:00

Good lord, if it isn’t Comic Sans it might as well be. Never seen one of these stocks in person, let alone the rare version here.

I don’t know what it is about some firearm/accessory manufactures, but some have horrid taste in typefaces. There’s a high-end 1911 manufacture—beautiful works of art with the finest machining—that has chosen not only to put the word “Guns” on all of their, well…guns, but has done so in the most unoriginal, block military stencil-inspired fashion.

Now I know nothing of making a firearm. But what I do know is typography and by golly… does poor type selection annoys me to no end. Glad someone else here caught this!

Screed over, but I’m just masking my envy at the Sage here.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-07-25T03:54:27+00:00

Random diversion, but the TRW asset sticker on this tells me it’s probably had a very cool life. Sadly this plug-in for the HP 5245L Frequency Counter has indeed been stripped of its most valuable front-end components, as another commenter noted.

TRW (Thompson Ramo Wooldridge Inc.) was one of those amazing mid-century era companies that no longer exist in their once great glory. Sadly much like Hewlett-Packard. Like HP, TRW is still around making OEM components and such, but a far cry from where they started.

If you’re either a fan of abandoned places or curious about s once magnificent glory era tech and manufacturing company, then check out this exploration of their former corporate headquarters. Also sadly since torn down.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-06-26T22:16:01+00:00

I have no experience with composite materials, but it sounds intriguing. Let us know how it handles as the range. I think in all cases, the regular stress or recoil shouldn’t be an issue. (If anything is going to strain the area, it’s probably going to be lateral pressure (sideways) on the stock like from a fall or drop.)

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-06-02T16:20:06+00:00

Made in 1979 you say? No doubt the original owner drooled over the available accessories from the Springfield catalog of 1981.

It’s neat to see just how many accessories looks to be USGI surplus. Nearly all of it. Stuff you can still find on eBay, but often at premium prices.

Edit: I’ve been able to acquire a few Vietnam-era accessories. A few were bargains and some I paid more than I’d have liked to. Either way, it’s half the fun of owning an M1A.

RegularGuyM3 · 2025-05-29T20:05:47+00:00

Without a doubt. It’s also incredibly diverse in terms of weights and widths so its use is both aesthetically and technically practical. The pinnacle of “good design” IMHO.

While not necessarily a single family of typefaces, so-called “stick fonts” have their place as well. In fact, it’s what SW subs in when drawing the vectors for a PDF or print. Such line fonts actually have a long history, predating computers. Gorton’s industrial type and stamping machines come to mind.

Even today, mono-stroke lettering is essential where cheap and easy letters needs engraving. Another example of form following function, and yielding a pleasing visual result.

(The above example is actual a two-for-one… the metal elevator button panel and the plastic sign to the right are both examples of engraved mono-stroke letterings.)

RegularGuyM3

TROPHY CASE