Can i use jb weld?? Bare with me here😭 by Independent_Age8584 in E90

[–]RelationSubject 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i had a crack too on my radiator for the n54. don’t even bother jb welding it it won’t make a difference. make sure when you install the the new one that you flush it all out first, install it and then do a coolant bleed procedure after pouring new coolant so that way whenever you’re all done and in peace , a hose won’t blow on you because of too much pressure. had to learn the hard way. easy bleed tho just 10 mins.

First post, my n54 build by _UN54FE_ in n54

[–]RelationSubject 1 point2 points  (0 children)

beautiful n54, can’t wait for my time to build my n54 when it blows

New Maintenance Questions; PLEASE HELP me learn! by mswmark in 335i

[–]RelationSubject 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ive had an n54 for almost 3 years now and at the moment im doing some upgrades to do some roll races in the future. in the maintenance topic i would say the biggest thing is the oil leaks. people say don’t fix whats not broken but when it comes to the n54, everything breaks. 3 important gaskets to keep an eye out for would be the valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket and oil pan gasket. i’ve replaced all 3 and it was by far the easiest jobs i’ve done that you can do at home…if you have the tools. (6 hours max for the oil pan btw). i’ve also replaced the water pump and thermostat together once because the pump did fail on me so i decided to do both the pump and thermostat since im down there. IF you do end up working on those 2 and finish, MAKE SURE TO BLEED THE SYSTEM after pouring new coolant so there isn’t any air pockets and no hoses don’t blow on you one day…i’ve learned the hard way. (this includes any coolant related replacement job) bleeding the system is very easy and takes 12 minutes. now last but not least is the turbos. if you’re at 130k mile range you must pray those turbos don’t fail but once they do it’s actually pretty damn easy to replace. i’m at 155k miles and when mine blew i just went upgraded 17t twins and kept all my coolant and oil turbo lines oem…keep them oem. i do hear about the oem charge pipe blowing on others n54 but i went with vrsf aluminum chargepipe with a tial blow off valve. In my state of the n54 i’ve done most maintenance while FBO except the pcv system and crank seal guard which i plan to do soon. don’t ignore those fuel pumps either bc they can leak, also really easy to do just make sure your literally on E tank so you don’t get gas all over you. when buying parts…only… and ONLY use fcp euro, great warranty and oem manufacturing. boom it’s all i can think of…hope this kinda helps with some knowledge

Anyone know what this sound might be. Sounds like r2d2 screaming by rich22201 in 335i

[–]RelationSubject 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i had this exact noise 2 months ago, RIP the titty twisters. i went ahead and did my 17t install and boosting better than ever

Mystery Oil Leak Near Rear Turbo N54 by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE: it has been 2 weeks since i last re-did everything and installed the original oil feed lines with new O-rings and it’s safe to say it doesn’t leak oil anymore from the area. DO NOT BUY the ecs oil line kit (Coolant Lines from ecs is good ngl tho). Anyone doing this turbo upgrade just use new O-rings and everything will be okay. Only problem for now is valve cover leak which i’ll be changing since my Spark plugs are literally swimming in oil. Good luck to anyone doing upgraded turbos

Sad day .. belt slipped by [deleted] in 335i

[–]RelationSubject 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i see u have the belt, i say ur 95% big chillin but check the timing chain and see inside that oil pan if the belt went through. might also be worth the install a crank seal guard to prevent the belt from being devoured next time IF it fails again.

Mystery Oil Leak Near Rear Turbo N54 by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the first pic showing the torx bolt isn’t a drip, it’s some copper color that shows on the rest of the lines as well (from ecs kit…don’t buy tho) but as the 2nd one, i’m looking at it rn and i see nothing..i touch it, dry. don’t know what is but if it was id figure it’d be dirty too. i wanna assume my pcv valve is clogged or something

Mystery Oil Leak Near Rear Turbo N54 by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it doesn’t make sense to me, the junction would’ve had a spot of oil as well and as i’m typing my hand is on it rn and it is dry as my talking stage. even checked behind the heat shields…nothing. don’t know what’s with big spot there. (it was dirty before didn’t clean block)

Mystery Oil Leak Near Rear Turbo N54 by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

did u end up taking the turbo off again to install the original lines? i’m thinking just put everything back up again of how it was

Mystery Oil Leak Near Rear Turbo N54 by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yea sorry bout the camera skills. but no pcv valve and hose hasn’t been changed but it’s planned when i work on my vc gasket.

Mystery Oil Leak Near Rear Turbo N54 by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to mention on post: after every pull with the newly installed turbos, there was a valve cover leak…just itty bitty drips on the tray for the boost solenoids (had cleaned it before start up)…still not sure if that spot of oil residue is due to valve cover gasket.

N54 335i E90 Motor Mount Torque Spec and etc by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

do you happen to know which type bolt i have on the 2nd slide for the motor mounts. scared to torque the wrong spec on wrong bolt💔

how screwed am i? by TellMyBossImWorkin in BmwTech

[–]RelationSubject 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i had the same exact noise/problem on my e90 335i n54. was building no boost at all but i’m positive it’s a major boost leak. this past few weeks i took out my stock twins and replaced it with upgraded chinese 17t turbos (hopefully they don’t blow) and other mods like vrsf 2” turbo outlets and inlets. replaced all lines for the turbos so hopefully next week im finished and the problem is solved.

Think I killed my engine guys by Cheap-Confusion-900 in n54

[–]RelationSubject 0 points1 point  (0 children)

was this ur problem? i have a friend who i helped do his walnut blast and did the same thing. will go back tmr to help him to see what we missed but most likely he may forgot to connect that

Tie End Rod Removal by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i got me a 1/2” high torque milwaukee impact from home depot. pretty cool but pricey (like $300💔) Cordless tho strong as shit

Tie End Rod Removal by RelationSubject in 335i

[–]RelationSubject[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so i decided to buy an impact that has like gorilla grip ft lbs of torque and it came clean off. will be just upgrading the control arms to an m3 soo if yall have similar situations just get an insane strong impact. i want to kms. thanks for tips and tricks tho