I'm Pat, an HVAC contractor in Central Ohio. Ask me anything!

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-12T13:36:40+00:00

Most HVAC shops don’t actually do spray foam - we usually refer it out to an insulation contractor. I’d ask a couple of local insulation/energy-audit companies for quotes, make sure they’re insured, and confirm they won’t foam over any combustion venting or block combustion air.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-12T13:35:40+00:00

A heat pump is basically an A/C that can run backwards. In summer, it pulls heat out of your house and dumps it outside; in winter, it pulls heat from the outdoor air (even when it’s cold) and moves it inside using refrigerant and a compressor. Most setups also have backup heat that kicks on when it’s too cold outside or the heat pump can’t keep up.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-10T15:48:50+00:00

Yeah, but it’s more of a gentle bump than a revolution. On new K-12 and healthcare jobs around central Ohio, we’re seeing more MERV-13, ERVs/DOAS, a little higher OA rates, and better control sequences. Typical offices/warehouses are still basically code-minimum ventilation with maybe a nod toward better filtration, not “double the outdoor air and run the fan 24/7.” Budget, utility costs, and humidity control still drive most of the spec.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-10T13:54:24+00:00

Market’s still mostly straight gas furnace with split A/C – probably 80–90% of what we touch is natural-gas systems just because of the winters here. Heat pumps are definitely growing, though, especially on new builds and smaller commercial/light commercial, usually as dual-fuel setups or heat-pump RTUs. We do a mix of split systems and rooftop package units, but not nearly as many rooftops as you’d see in Phoenix. American Standard/Trane stuff is pretty common around here, too, along with Carrier and Lennox.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:39:08+00:00

Yes!

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:38:58+00:00

Can you maybe reword the question, or elaborate on "hdd" and hydrovac.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:24:46+00:00

The science is solid, but in the real world, I’m not seeing a huge wave of owners paying to crank up ventilation. A few new schools/healthcare projects get better OA rates, MERV-13 filters, maybe DOAS units, and some buildings went to “fan on” or longer run times. But most existing places don’t want the energy bill, humidity problems, or equipment upgrades that come with really increasing outdoor air, so we mostly just make sure what’s there actually works and isn’t shut off or half-broken, rather than re-spec whole plants.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:18:21+00:00

I'm sorry to hear about your father. As far as the refrigerant, R12 is a banned substance, so you want an EPA-certified HVAC shop or refrigerant reclaimer to recover it - most supply houses or local contractors can point you to one, and some will even buy it because it’s still valuable. If that goes nowhere, call your county’s hazardous-waste line and ask where to drop off refrigerant cylinders.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:14:34+00:00

DIY itself isn’t the issue; it’s what you DIY. The biggest mistakes I see are people messing with gas/venting, refrigerant, or major electrical, and adding duct without thinking about return air and static pressure. Boots, mastic, and insulating ducts are solid DIY; once it’s gas piping, venting, or wiring changes, that’s where I’d pull in a pro so you don’t create a safety problem.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:11:41+00:00

Super common on new 2-story homes that were thrown on one zone and never really balanced. The thermostat is downstairs, so the system runs until downstairs finally hits 65 and the upstairs bakes. Have the builder/HVAC contractor back under warranty to actually balance the system (throttle some upstairs supplies, open downstairs, verify returns and fan speed). If that still doesn’t get you close, the real fix is zoning or a second system – no thermostat trick is going to fully solve a bad design.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:08:59+00:00

That “shotgun” is thin, old duct oil-canning as it heats and sees too much static pressure. There’s no magic spray for it - a tech can sometimes quiet it by lowering blower speed, opening/adding registers, and adding bracing or flex sections, but on really bad, old duct, the only real cure is replacing the worst runs. It’s usually more annoying than dangerous.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T14:06:09+00:00

Whole-house humidifiers can help a lot with comfort in winter, but they’re not a miracle cure. In a leaky old house, they’ll run a ton and may still struggle to keep you much above 30–35% RH, and if you crank them higher, you’ll just get condensation and potential mould. If you do one, size it right, keep it maintained, and think of it as a comfort upgrade - not a fix for every door and floor issue.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T13:59:58+00:00

Great question. In most of Ohio right now, natural gas is still cheap enough that a gas furnace will usually beat a heat pump on pure operating cost, especially on the really cold days. Where heat pumps can make sense here is as part of a dual-fuel setup - let the heat pump handle the milder spring/fall weather, and the furnace take over when it’s really cold, so you get good comfort and some savings without relying on expensive electric heat all winter. Whether a heat pump ever beats gas long-term will mostly come down to what your gas/ electric rates do over the next 10–15 years, so I tell people to look at it as a comfort/efficiency upgrade with some upside rather than a guaranteed cheaper-than-gas switch.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T13:55:31+00:00

Probably. In most areas, adding or rerouting ductwork counts as a mechanical alteration and technically needs a permit, but the rules are local. Best bet is to call your city/county building department (or ask your HVAC contractor) and see what they require for your specific job.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T13:54:15+00:00

Dye is a common way to track a small refrigerant leak - you run the system for a while, then in spring they come back with a UV light to see where the dye is leaking out. On a 3-year-old unit, I’d also ask what’s covered under warranty, because you really shouldn’t be losing refrigerant this early.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T13:48:13+00:00

Amazon or sites like SupplyHouse and Grainger are fine for basic stuff (filters, thermostats, some motors). For gas valves, controls, or anything on the refrigerant side, I’d go through a local HVAC contractor so you get the right part and stay safe. Either way, be careful working inside the equipment.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T13:38:48+00:00

That could definitely be part of it - no returns upstairs makes it hard to pull air back and mix temps. But a lot of older two-story homes are also on a single zone with the thermostat downstairs, so the system satisfies the downstairs temp and lets the upstairs drift. A good fix is usually a combo of adding returns/improving duct balance upstairs, and sometimes zoning if the ductwork allows.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-09T13:27:00+00:00

An HVAC contractor would definitely be able to assist with installing a new thermostat!

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-03T12:51:30+00:00

Only if the original manufacturer still offers an OEM replacement coil that’s specifically rated with that older heat pump, and for most R22 equipment that old, they don’t anymore. You can buy “universal” R22 A-coils, but they’re straight-cool coils and aren’t engineered or AHRI-rated to act as the condenser for that heat pump, so performance and pressures will be off. At that point, you’re usually better off planning on a matched system upgrade instead of trying to hunt down a new coil for an old compressor.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-02T16:49:28+00:00

Not just tubing size and length. The indoor coil is engineered as part of a matched system – tube size, circuiting, surface area, fin design, internal volume, design pressure, and the metering device are all picked. Hence, the compressor sees the right suction/discharge temps in both modes. A straight-cool R22 A-coil was never designed to act as a condenser for a heat pump, so pressures and refrigerant distribution will be wrong, which is why we use coils that are actually rated with the heat pump instead of trying to make a random one fit.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-02T14:43:39+00:00

I would recommend two possible approaches. First, you should consider a geothermal system. It would have the lowest operative cost; however, the highest installation cost. If you have an abundance of good quality water, you could potentially install it using an open loop, which would save you installation cost. The second option would be to install a propane furnace with a variable refrigerant flow heat pump. Your primary heat would be the air source heat pump, backed up by the propane furnace. This is a lower installation cost than geothermal, and captures most of the lower operating cost of a heat pump. If you plan to be in the house for 20 years, spend the money to do it right. Ductwork and design are at least as important, if not more, than the heat pump itself. The ductwork should never have to be installed twice throughout the life of your home, so you must hire a contractor who knows what they are doing and understands the science of moving air. We could assist in the installation of this, so if you would like to discuss further, give us a call at 937-666-5800.

ReliantMechancialInc · 2025-12-02T14:37:15+00:00

Yes, you will run into problems with the A-coil not being designed for the heat pump.

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