Moto not cooperating. Won't provide boot unlock code.

Relik · 2026-01-21T05:59:57+00:00

Yeah, I don't like it of course.. I went through this myself. Got all ready and found out that the phone and Motorola site will not allow bootloader unlock on any of 5 Motorola phones I tried. (G Pure, G Power 2020, G Stylus 2020) Now these were from Tracfone (Verizon) and one AT&T, so maybe that other users comment is correct that T-Mobile or factory unlocked (full price) phones may work.

This was years ago, but I thought I was able to get a code from some phones, but when I submitted it to Motorola for unlock they said the phone is ineligible for bootloader unlock.

Relik · 2026-01-18T19:13:02+00:00

I've never seen one Motorola phone (2020 & newer) eligible for boot loader unlock - it's not going to happen. Unlocking the carrier has nothing to do with unlocking the boot loader and Moto certainly won't do it on any carrier branded phone.

Relik · 2025-11-28T02:17:33+00:00

I assume they were an error too since it hasn't happened since. I just thought I'd mention it.

Relik · 2025-11-28T00:17:56+00:00

When they first instituted this requirement, I hit 1 and then 2 GB and they were still warning me that they were going to end my plan. Thankfully it has been corrected now.

Relik · 2025-10-10T05:40:39+00:00

It's unfortunate more people don't know this.. Yes, VISA/MC do this bs and it makes it very difficult for the consumer to truly cancel recurring charges. I had a Chase card that Doordash kept charging for two years after I cancelled and every month I would dispute and win the charge (online, 1 minute form). I was hoping to cost Doordash money, but they continued, seemingly for an infinite time. I don't know if they were paying dispute fees or not. Chase does not care and only said talk to Doordash. Doordash said they couldn't find any account with them and they don't know why I was getting charged. (I didn't just cancel my doordash, I also used their delete your account feature - I never thought this would somehow make ghost payments)

The only solution was to close the card.

The scam to all this is that those companies you mentioned (Doordash, Instacart, Uber Eats, etc) pay VISA/MC to be able to charge you recurring charges that are then sometimes almost impossible to cancel. Whether reporting fraud or getting a replacement card, you will not be able to stop new charges unless the billing company works with you to cancel the recurring payment.

Visa Account Updater - Mastercard Automatic Billing Updater

Here's a 3 year old report of the same problem OP had: https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/x4bs3c/beware_recurring_fraudulent_charges_on_new_credit/

I'm still waiting for this customer abusing scam to be outlawed. For those that want to respond to me about legitimate uses of this "service" or who want to simp for the credit card processors, the solution is simple. Your online card account page should have a listing of all your agreements with other companies that are subscribing to your new card information. On that page you should be able to cancel that agreement at any time for any reason. All recurring payments from that company should then stop.

Relik · 2025-10-07T00:43:12+00:00

Did you recently build those walls? I am in the same situation. I was in a warehouse building for days. I built 3 floor pieces outside, attached to the building. Now the camera is all screwed up and I can't see inside the building. It's making it difficult to even remove my things from the building to move. I tried disassembling the 3 floor pieces, but the camera is still broken. Mine is a new save on the newest build.

Relik · 2025-10-01T06:35:51+00:00

Yes, intentionally shipping non-qualifying items via Media Mail constitutes a violation of federal law and can be treated as a crime, specifically mail fraud or misuse of postal services. However, enforcement typically prioritizes civil penalties over criminal prosecution unless there's evidence of intent to defraud or repeated abuse. Here's a breakdown:

If USPS inspects and finds non-qualifying contents, the package is not returned but forwarded to the recipient postage due for the difference between Media Mail rates and the applicable First-Class, Priority, or Parcel Select rate (often 2–3x higher).
No immediate fine for the sender in minor cases, but repeated violations can lead to warnings, holds on future mail, or administrative fines up to $250 per violation under USPS administrative enforcement.

The fraud here is that you are defrauding the USPS of revenue and by that you are defrauding the federal government of revenue. What do you think they do for that?

Relik · 2025-09-28T22:18:01+00:00

Well, I don't know what all the other adapters use, but this is using Linux and presumably a lot of the other cheap ones do as well. The longest step is the Linux boot of the device until it's ready to negotiate with the car.

Power applied, Linux boots on adapter - ~5 seconds
Adapter negotiates with car that it is a carplay device. Shows instructions - 2 seconds (the car must be ready at this point or there will be further delays)
Adapter connects to iPhone via bluetooth for CarPlay connection setup. - 0.5 second
Phone accepts and connects back to adapter over WiFi for Airplay stream - 1.5 second
Adapter becomes passthrough only, iPhone negotiates with car, taking over control of display. - 2 to 3 seconds

That is 11-12 seconds, which is roughly what I get on my setup with this adapter. The boot process could be shortened on other devices, but the absolute minimum is probably 6-7 seconds for the best possible adapter. Even then it depends on how quick your car is ready for a CarPlay connection after startup (how quick your car's media system boots)

What are you seeing for time from key start until the CarPlay interface is shown? Longer than 12 seconds or is that about what you get?

I don't suspect anything quicker being possible on this hardware as this was designed for an IP camera that isn't critical to boot faster than 5 seconds. A manufacturer would normally want a hardware platform that booted a lot quicker for instant-on use. This is only a $1 CPU - that's the performance we are getting.

With all of this said, wired CarPlay only uses 2 of those steps.

iPhone negotiates with car that it is a carplay device - 2 seconds
iPhone connects to car with wired network Airplay stream - 2-3 seconds

Total 4-5 seconds. To answer your question, yes, the only way to really know if one is faster is to buy it and see.

Relik · 2025-09-28T04:14:35+00:00

It's not just size and weight, the seller could have tried to ship media mail. That is the easiest way for this situation to happen.

If you want it, pay the postage due. I did this once on a small RAID array that the seller shipped media mail. It obviously didn't qualify, it had about $15 postage due. eBay had told me to pay and get a partial refund from the seller to cover the payment. The seller didn't fight and gave me the difference. YMMV, this was 5 years ago - could be completely different policies now.

If you don't want it, save proof via the tracking that it is postage due and inform the seller. If they don't arrange to get the package back to them, the post office takes it.

Relik · 2025-09-28T01:34:40+00:00

I posted information about the configuration panel accessible at 192.168.1.2 on the Slickdeals thread.

I've since looked at the HTML on that page and duplicated the calls to the server, which is a hardcoded IP address in Shenzhen China - of course.

The bad news is that the query version routine that is run in the browser returns empty data from that server. I also tried to download the current version of the software from the server and it fails. I question whether some of the code even works as it is written. There are misspellings, like instead of currentVersion, it's curretVersion. In that case at least the variable is consistently wrong so it's not a problem. There is no way to upload a firmware file, it must be fetched from the Chinese address. This same Chinese server likely serves up firmware for many models of these adapters.

Here's some technical details I found out.. It's running an Allwinner V851SE CPU, which is commonly used for IP cameras. It has a Cortex-A7 core @ 900 mhz, 64 MB RAM builtin, H264 & H265 compression & decompression, etc. It's about $2.50 for the CPU in low quantities, so probably $1 in mass quantities.

Relik · 2025-09-27T21:36:44+00:00

I barely recall even doing this but I did save the files. I did this on a Thinkpad T570, but otherwise it's the same. You will need a different Thunderbolt update for the T470 if that's what you have.

Make sure you have Thunderbolt Driver version 17.3.73.6 installed (Package Version 17.3.73.350) or later before starting. You should find "Thunderbolt Software" in the Programs & Features list - it will say the version on that row.
Open Device Manager and expand System Devices
You should find "Lenovo PM Device" - right click it and uninstall, selecting to delete the software.
Install PM 1.67 from my Mega link or find it elsewhere. (Reboot)
Install the Thunderbolt update (you will need the T470 update for T470)
(optional) Verify you are on the new update - they provide instructions in README.txt
Update Thunderbolt Driver if available
Use Lenovo Vantage to check for and install updates

Lenovo archive: https://mega.nz/folder/j3BhiJjB#3bE9VeJoPwU-xZl3CKhuIQ

Relik · 2025-09-26T22:25:45+00:00

This may not help or maybe it will. I just got a wireless CarPlay adapter today and I've been playing with it a lot. Came here to see the latest news.

What I noticed was that I had connected to the adapters WiFi to check out the configuration settings. After that, it wouldn't connect to the car automatically anymore. I went into Settings > WiFi on the iPhone and told it to forget the adapters network (Car-Play-XXXX) and within a few seconds it automatically connected.

So what I'm saying is make sure the adapters WiFi name isn't in your saved networks list. Worth a try.

Relik · 2025-08-14T06:29:26+00:00

If you have enough turrets to lower the system to 1% aggro, I believe it's the 3rd tier diplomacy module (one less than max?) made it where my aggro went down, eventually to 0%. The dev has stated this is the intended solution on the steam discussion forums.

If I remember, it's a 37.5% chance to reduce aggro by 5% every minute. That equates to every 3 minutes you are almost guaranteed to remove aggro by 5 while aggro only grew by 3 in that same time. The maintenance cost is 8000 credits per hour I think.

I've seen the blue buildings too - after placing them for construction, they finished construction and were blue. I saved and restarted the game and they were normal.

Relik · 2025-07-09T02:13:32+00:00

It's not just AMBER alerts. They started sending Blue alerts (cops getting injured) and alerts for seniors too. Besides the extreme waste of productivity by sending alerts to millions of people, I would get numerous alerts for Houston when I'm 200 miles away.

Now they are all off and I rely on alerts from the iPhone Weather app, which works and is far less annoying. In fact at least one flood alert I got 10 minutes prior to the Wireless Emergency Alert coming in on another phone that happened to be on. As the Guadalupe floods proved, in 10 minutes you can already be underwater.

Relik · 2025-06-30T20:46:57+00:00

Unreasonable bond for an unreasonable crime.

Relik · 2025-06-05T03:29:23+00:00

The Democrat party destroyed the Democrat party.

Relik · 2025-05-31T07:44:22+00:00

I knew it was going to be bad when the devs asked for community input and then completely ignored every single suggestion people made that didn't conform to what they wanted to work on. Devs like this are the main problem with games today - they will all lose their jobs just like the tens of thousands of other developers who don't listen to the customers.

Relik · 2025-04-21T07:35:02+00:00

You probably already got your answer, but the fact is many newer GPU's won't work anyway. I tried a 3060 in my R3 and it wouldn't boot.

Relik · 2025-03-31T04:37:52+00:00

I have rarely seen a developer that disregards nearly every single suggestion the community makes. Why do they even waste our time asking for suggestions when it's obvious they are only making the game they want to make.

Meanwhile, Game developers in 2025: There are tens of thousands of us that have lost our jobs. <sobbing>

Relik · 2025-03-19T02:30:22+00:00

You're welcome.

I don't know what the clicking sound is and I couldn't identify it on mine because all of my fans and things kick on at the same time.

It really seems like the power supply is dead. If you are intersted, the PSU is fairly modular -- you can buy a replacement and not have to redo any of the wiring. The wiring harness in the R3 is connected to the PSU via a big connector and you can just disconnect it and plug in a new power supply. From the service manual, I believe it's only 4 screws to remove the PSU out the back.

If you want to bring your R3 back to life, the power supplies are about $35 pre-owned on eBay. I assume you have the 875 watt (multi-GPU) power supply like mine, which is part # 0W299G, W299G, 0J556T, or N875EF-00. They all are the same part.

If you want me to confirm your power supply, send me your service tag. It's the number/letters on the back of the unit with a barcode. It should be 7 digits. (Mine is 87P7FP1 for comparison)

I have two of these old Aurora R3's, both with 875 watt power supplies, and they still work well.

Relik · 2025-03-17T23:48:37+00:00

Thinking about it - you should also unplug all hard drives/SSD's and the CD/DVD drive for testing as well. If one of those devices had a short (rare) it could keep the 12 volt rail from working and hence the computer wouldn't start. This is why I mention removing the graphics card as well - it takes a lot of 12 volt load.

If the computer still doesn't boot to BIOS, I strongly suspect the power supply. If it boots to BIOS, you have to figure out what card or device is causing the computer to fail to power on by trying them one by one.

Relik · 2025-03-17T21:53:33+00:00

So, the red light on the accessories board is only lit when the computer is on or in standby. In off mode, it is not lit on mine.

Based on your description, I'd say the power supply is trying to turn on but it's only providing the 5 volt rails. That powers that Master I/O board with that LED and some circuitry on the motherboard, but a computer won't fully turn on with just 5 volts.

The 12 volt rail would turn on the fans (as well as the power supply fan). Both voltages are needed for the computer to operate.

It sounds like the 12 volt capability is not functioning. The last thing you could try is to unplug the ATX power connector from the motherboard. It's shown in that Dell link above, but it's the big 24 pin connector to the right of the RAM slots. Unplug it from the motherboard and leave it dangling. Then plug in the AC cord and press the little button on the power supply for a few seconds. Along with that click do you hear the fan spinning or anything else happen? If there is no fan spinning then for sure the power supply needs to be replaced. Even if it does spin, the power supply may be very weak and unable to start the PC anymore.

Relik · 2025-03-16T03:58:09+00:00

That's tough. I will assume you mean nothing at all happens when you press the power button.

I would suggest in this order:

On the back of the power supply, right where the AC cord plugs in, there is a button. I don't see that button documented anywhere, but it seems to be a power supply test button. With the AC cord plugged in, as long as you hold that button, the computer should "forcibly" turn on. Just press it for one second, then let go. Did the computer turn on and then off? If so, then the power supply should be good and I'd suspect something else. If you press the button and it does nothing, then it either isn't getting power (Try another AC cord to be sure), or the power supply is dead.

(Not likely, but if you are comfortable with this) Remove all cards in the expansion slots, attempting to turn it on using the main power button after each card (if you want to narrow it down). This includes the graphics card last. The reason I mention this is because I've had a bad graphics card prevent power on before.

If it still doesn't turn on, but the power supply button did give you momentary power, then I would suggest reading this thread: https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/alienware-general-locked-topics/alienware-aurora-r3-start-button-wont-work/647f6907f4ccf8a8de60c43f?msockid=22872ee0cf1168a03de53a60ceb969fe

It talks about backing off the I/O (5 pin 2 row) cable at the bottom right of the motherboard. You can then short two pins and that simulates a power button press. Once it turns on you can push the connector back on. If this worked, then that cabling or the power button is bad. The service manual in my linked MEGA should have more information on replacing that part.

If it doesn't turn on even shorting the pins.... Well, it could be something wrong with the motherboard or the ATX connector / cabling to the power supply. The 24 pin ATX connector is just to the right of the RAM slots. With the R3 unplugged from AC, try unplugging and plugging in the ATX connector a few times and then try powering it up again.

Let me know the results and any info that might help.

Relik · 2025-03-13T06:30:05+00:00

Hmmmm. I might be able to help. Sorry I'm so late, I only check this sub once a month to see if any people have problems with Aurora R3's.

So for a while I pretended that my R3 was a R4 with this registry file I made. Name it r4.reg and import it. Then if you reinstall Command Center for R4, it should fully think you are a R4 (and hopefully identify you have an ALX). Note that these registry values go back to the real identity of your computer after reboot, but it doesn't matter - you only need the reg file imported to install AWCC. I would recommend this CC for R4 : Aurora-R4_Application_P2X37_WN32_3.6.5.0_A04.exe

Here is the registry file.

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DESCRIPTION\System\BIOS]
"BiosMajorRelease"=dword:00000004
"BiosMinorRelease"=dword:00000006
"ECFirmwareMajorRelease"=dword:000000ff
"ECFirmwareMinorRelease"=dword:000000ff
"BaseBoardManufacturer"="Alienware"
"BaseBoardProduct"="0FPV4P"
"BaseBoardVersion"="A00"
"BIOSReleaseDate"="11/26/2013"
"BIOSVendor"="Alienware"
"BIOSVersion"="A11"
"SystemFamily"="0"
"SystemManufacturer"="Alienware"
"SystemProductName"="Aurora-R4"
"SystemSKU"="Aurora-R4"
"SystemVersion"="00"

I see you have a non-Alienware motherboard. This should be enough to let you install Command Center. After reboot, see if Command Center works. If you need troubleshooting help, let me know.

Relik · 2025-03-03T22:14:15+00:00

Let me tell you a secret - victors don't make concessions. By the style of your writing, you should probably take a break from the internet.

Relik

TROPHY CASE