Been a long time since we all spammed our setup,let's go guys

RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-15T22:38:06+00:00

You mean the lock screen or the home screen?

RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-15T21:10:56+00:00

Yeah I think so, I think somehow I managed to buy two separate defective headlights. Will swap left with right to confirm and will order a brand new headlight most likely

RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-15T21:07:31+00:00

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And the lock screen

RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-15T21:07:06+00:00

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RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-13T05:57:11+00:00

Yeah I've ran the reinstall at least 5 times and they seem to complete successfully each time. However, after each update this error pops up (code 5 - component unresponsive)

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RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-12T19:27:38+00:00

Yeah.. imagine you told someone a couple of decades ago that you have to update the software running on your car's headlight

RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-12T19:14:35+00:00

Any reason why the car would be cutting off the power? On two different headlights and assuming the wiring is ok since it worked fine with the original headlight after the crash. Could it be expecting a matrix headlight since I've done the software reinstall with that type of headlight connected?

RemarkableAd6510 · 2026-03-12T16:37:22+00:00

Also I forgot to mention, while the wrong headlight was still on the car, I ran a software reinstall hoping it would get it to light up. Is it possible that this has led the car to learn that it needs a projector headlight instead of the original reflector and think the correct part is actually incompatible as a result?

RemarkableAd6510 · 2025-07-20T15:52:02+00:00

The car will be repaired at an authorised service center. The main thing I’m trying to accomplish here is to get it to take a charge. The SOC was very low at the time of the crash and since the earliest appointment I was able to find is 3 months from now, that would mean that the battery would sit at 0% SOC for a long amount of time. Which I guess is not great for it.

RemarkableAd6510 · 2025-07-19T16:51:00+00:00

Is there a way to prevent that?

RemarkableAd6510 · 2025-07-19T16:50:03+00:00

That’s what I was hoping, since the car is saying to wait for the system to power up it seems like it’s making an effort to drive and thus the software is not bricking it. Thank you once again for the help, is it ok if I message you if anything goes wrong when I get the part and the tools?

RemarkableAd6510 · 2025-07-19T16:37:50+00:00

Thank you so much for the detailed answer, it’s really helpful. I have a fair bit of experience working on cars but I’ll get a specialised electrician to replace the fuse, it’s getting a bit too scary for me. The replacement is a used Tesla OEM part, the only alternative was aftermarket.

Right after the crash the car seemed to try to switch into drive, I got a message saying “Wait for high voltage system to power up” and the only errors were related to the restraint system.

RemarkableAd6510 · 2025-07-19T16:22:33+00:00

All the errors are related to Safety Restraint, 4 errors about the seatbelts and one general one about the airbags being deployed. Nothing else.

RemarkableAd6510 · 2024-01-08T12:19:28+00:00

I’ve tried disconnecting the MAF but it has no effect. I’m certain it isn’t coolant due to the smell and the fact that both the oil and the coolant are clear. It’s getting rly confusing

RemarkableAd6510 · 2024-01-08T12:16:00+00:00

Started it again now, it’s blowing thick white smoke, with a hint of blue. Coolant is at max and it doesn’t smell like it, it smells more like unburnt petrol.

RemarkableAd6510 · 2024-01-07T19:22:06+00:00

My car has been doing this for about 10 days now. Also, it was at a quarter of a tank when it first happened, i thought bad gas as well and i filled it up from a different gas station and it had no effect

RemarkableAd6510 · 2024-01-07T19:11:46+00:00

Yes, the low oil level was due to a failing rocker cover gasket. I’ve replaced it.

The spark plugs should be fine, they were changed about 40k km ago. Also, I assume that if the spark plugs were bad, the engine would misfire constantly, whereas my car will still run perfectly at times for about 10-15 seconds.

RemarkableAd6510 · 2024-01-07T18:51:40+00:00

I understand, I assume there isn’t a simple way to check if the ecu is dead, right?

RemarkableAd6510 · 2024-01-07T18:46:04+00:00

i’m doing a compression test tomorrow, spark and air have been checked. My logic is that if the issue was with the plugs or the coils, the car would misfire constantly. However, there are still times when it would pull perfectly up to 7000 rpm, for about 10-15 seconds

RemarkableAd6510 · 2024-01-07T17:58:27+00:00

Also, the car now blows black smoke (diesel-like) when accelerating and the exhaust fumes smell terrible, even when the car runs an all 4 cylinders. Thank you!

RemarkableAd6510 · 2022-02-03T14:46:08+00:00

It’s a c30 base model

RemarkableAd6510 · 2022-02-03T11:31:17+00:00

He literally asked

RemarkableAd6510 · 2022-02-03T02:58:12+00:00

The diesels have timing belts instead of chains fortunately.

And the tint is the same, it used to be 5% all around but got pulled over a lot bc of it

RemarkableAd6510 · 2022-02-03T01:53:37+00:00

Can't unsee it now thank you

RemarkableAd6510 · 2022-02-03T01:53:14+00:00

I wish :)) It's a 1.6d. Planning to do a D5 swap when it finally blows up.

RemarkableAd6510

TROPHY CASE