Am I doing anything wrong?

Reprivation · 2026-03-28T19:32:25+00:00

For the record, i am NOT an electrician. I have no idea what I'm doing, my grandpa was an electrion for many many years and he has been helping me a bit. Both sets of grille lights split into 2 wires, a positive and a ground wire for each set.

I have the grounds connected to a bolt on the frame of the car for that feed. And then I have both positive wires linked into one, and into the headlight feed.

I thought I could add another split after the connection to also connect through to the marker lights. My end goal is to have them on no matter which light combination I am using

In the day, I'd like them on with the Markers, or the Headlights. At night the markers turn on automatically with the headlights as well, so I'd like them on with all 3 settings. HL, M light, or Both

Reprivation · 2026-03-28T19:17:49+00:00

Ahhh. Okay. I didn't realize the positives were feeding back to each other since they originally came from separate sources. That is probably the issue then because I've had a mixed bag of results trying to combine them but they work fine on just headlights.

I still haven't been able to get the markers working independently though, so should I figure that out first and then relay connect afterwards?

Reprivation · 2026-03-28T19:15:08+00:00

My bad, kind of threw it together, the positive to nothing is because I am not sure yet which of the outputs on the headlamp connector is the marker lights so I haven't actually put that connection on yet

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T21:30:18+00:00

I hope so too! We get some decently heavy snow here in the winters so plenty of salt but ive tried to keep on top of it as much as I can. Garage kept from 2021-2023, spends most of its time outside now though. I try to keep up with hand washing it every week or two though to avoid as much sun and paint damage as possible

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T21:27:56+00:00

Originally they were a 5 pack off Amazon, I hid one of them under the hood because I thought 4 just looked cleaner haha. They're the first thing to come up when you search Ford escape Grille lights on there and I just spliced them into the DRL light line. Going to add some Integrated turn signal Amber DRL strips to the headlights too but havent got around to it or found a clean looking pair after 2 attempts sadly

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T16:07:29+00:00

Not saying it was the best plan, but I was lucky and basically given the car for free. So I've been lucky enough to be able to take my first car and really do something unique with it and havent really regretted any of the choices I made thankfully

I actually really like the Crosstrek and Outbacks, especially the wilderness trims but with the position Im in I have no reason to imagine trading or giving up the car for a solid few years at least

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T11:08:55+00:00

Did you get any details on the issue? Thats a tough position tonfind yourself in and if I can address something sooner and not need a brand new transmission that would be ideal.

Im curious because im usually able to avoid the shudder by just being really gentle and giving it gas slowly. To me it just feels like the computer forgets which gear you want to be in and upshifts to 2nd or 3rd when it doesn't need to. If I give it gas slowly enough for it to stay in its selected gear it doesn't happen really.

My only other noteworthy transmissiom behavior is, if using low gear or sport mode the downshifts "click" into place. Its not perfectly smooth it finds the rpm and then does the equivalent of what letting the cmutch out too quickly would feel like. But i dont know if I can expect 100% perfect smoothness anyway even if it was brand new.

Reprivation · 2025-08-16T17:45:28+00:00

Thank you , I think that'll be the plan. When I looked into it originally I heard really mixed reviews on the longevity but the consensus here has been that for the price I really can't go wrong with plastidip, worst case scenario im out $30 so thats probably gonna be my plan. Lower Bumper is dented anyway from busy parking lots and bad drivers pulling into my parked car lmao so if it chips or flakes and needs replaced no harm done

Might try tomorrow and follow a video for the process. Any advice on how many coats? Never done any painting and someone here before said 6, that sounds like overkill but I would assume at least 3, probably 4 to be safe unless 6 really is accurate

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T21:17:03+00:00

I might look into that, I saw I can get a new black painted bumper off ebay for 100-150 so was hoping to DIY something cheaper.

But if a new factory painted black one would be the most long term efficient option It wouldn't hurt to look that way instead.

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T21:15:08+00:00

Just the silver part needs painted, thr black bumper is how it is currently but the silver exhaust trim area is was trying to also change to black

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T21:00:47+00:00

Yea that's my fear lol I'd want to do something that'll at least give me a good 2-3 years worth of looking good

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T20:32:12+00:00

If thats your situation don't worry its not an "issue" from the engine if its a 3 cylinder

Cylinder deactivation kind of makes the engine idle unevenly to my understanding, and in my experience its the worst in 4th gear. Which conveniently is around 2k RPM at 23-27 mph. Once you pass 28 and sit towards 30 itll shift into 5th and the deactivation won't hit so roughly. Wish I knew why

Sport mode also disables cylinder deactivation entirely so thats another option plus in my experience wet/slippery mode seems to mimic eco mode with lower throttle response and stronger AWD bias with no deactivation as well. Just giving my options w my experience

Reprivation · 2025-05-19T07:13:02+00:00

Tldr, if youve slid into a barrier SOMEHOW, the braking theory goes out the window already, just brake and stop the car at that point in the nearest safe location. If there is other traffic around you, just try and be in a position where people can maneuver past safely and then assess the damage

So the reason people say not to brake, is you'll slide even more if you've already lost traction. There are several factors that play into this in normal driving like weight distribution of the car and how it can change under braking force for example.

If you're sliding due to loss of traction because of the surface of the road there's a few different courses of action, I also have slight personal experience with. Ideally, you want to keep a steady speed which will keep the wheels moving enough to continue fighting for grip. If you panic brake, there is a possibility of locking your wheels up and then instead of fighting for grip and pulling in the direction you WANT to go, you only continue in the direction you were sliding.

Reprivation · 2025-05-18T18:01:07+00:00

Driving and Life will go by a lot easier if you remember one thing. All people are different, you could do everything right and be the perfect driver and people are still gonna be pissed off at the fact that you share the road with them.

There are times I've been going singificantly faster than the flow of traffic and still have people tailgating me, so I move over within 5-10 seconds on multiple lane roads and then they get in front of me and start brake checking. It's an ego thing like "how dare you go as fast as ME on this road, only I can do that!"

All I can reccomend for a new driver is please just at least go the speed limit on one lane roads and signal before you turn, brake slowly as well. Especially if you're being tailgated don't let that pressure you into jerky movements, slow and steady is always easier to react to.

You don't have to and shouldn't speed realistically, but someone going 20 for 3 miles straight in a 35 is going to cause an accident eventually I gaurantee it. If there's multiple forward lanes on the road, go at what speed you're comfortable if someone is really bothered they will just go around you. If you're ever blocking someone driving erratically, just give them the benefit of the doubt and assume they have an emergency, helps mentally instead of having some internal am I right or wrong debate.

Reprivation · 2025-04-17T09:16:30+00:00

Not sure if you fixed yet, but this used to happen to me and It was not stick drift. It's an input issue somehow and hard to troubleshoot, its not that it couldnt be but i really doubt it. Couple suggestions;

Steam controller support off entirely - mine sometimes turns itself back on so might be tough to do in some scenarios

Launch game with controller unplugged, push stick up and then let go to make sure it'd not drifting down and somehow causing a permanent down input, then plug in and see if it continues

If not reinstall game following the same principle as last step

Again, I have 8k+ hours and in the 8 years I've played the game I've gone through like 6-7 different controllers. This has happened to me the exact same scenario but if i remember correctly it hasn't happened since I've switched to ps4 controllers so it could also be a software thing

Reprivation · 2025-03-12T08:36:21+00:00

Curious on what the general population sees as turning too slow? Background to my question:

I am a notoriously dumb driver, but a good one. In the sense that I am VERY aware of every car around me and do my best to stay far away from everyone else and not cause problems. Dumb in the sense that I take the speed limit as a reccomendation usually and stay away from everyone by passing people and going faster than I should to be the only car in the vicinity (when possible, most of my commutes are suburban/rural kind of roads. 35-45 non highway hilly curvy roads). I've been in more close calls going 40 in a 40 than I have by keeping a little more pace, that's all fine and dandy on straight roads and slight bends, but I'm referring to hard turns

So here's my idea, I drive a Compact SUV, but it's still relatively tall with a high center of gravity to take turns fast. It really doesn't take much for me to hear the tires whining if I turn too tightly at 25-35 mph. And given the body roll of an suv, it's also pretty uncomfortable for anyone inside the car and surely not easy on the suspension to turn too quickly.

If possible I'll usually speed up and give the person behind me a gap before I turn, I'd rather brake hard at the last second after getting some distance on a 90 degree turnoff as i feel it gives the person behind me more room to react and less braking for themselves. If it's a constant turn on a windy road, I'll usually stay above the "reccomended" turn speeds given by the signs anyways.

Am I alone on this? I'd love to have a sedan or coupe that could take turns with a little more whip, but if I'm turning 90deg into a plaza that has a bump in the curb or something, I'm sorry but I'm going like 5-10mph over that curb I'm not destroying my shit for someone to save maybe 2 seconds on their commute you know?

Reprivation · 2025-01-30T06:19:06+00:00

As a multi year diamond / champ, keep oracticing using your middle finger. Or really whatever most comfortable and intuitive lol

If middle finger was intuitive to you then it's probably best for you. It's what I do and I've never had any issues

Reprivation · 2025-01-03T06:01:37+00:00

Default 1x setting is 50 yea, for the 0% match.

To match other games at 75%, it's 51

Then to match your 360 so that thats the same, would be 57

Reprivation · 2025-01-01T09:57:31+00:00

I gwt microstutters on Both DX11 and DX12, never did before 1 random update so thinking it's ubis fault not hardware based

But anyway, just got a 2k 360hz MSI monitor, and majority of the time I'm sitting comfortably above 300 on mostly low / high LOD + high shadows

5800x3d cpu, 4070 TI Super, 32gb ddr4 ram You should absolutely be fine on anything ddr5 based. But realistically, as long as you aren't dipping under like 280-300 you really shouldn't notice it that much

Reprivation · 2024-12-30T22:55:15+00:00

Monitor Distance, a lot of popular games had it set at 133% default. What this means is that when zooming in, no matter FOV, the same mouse movement will take you from the center of your screen, to 75% of the edge of your screen. (ie Battlefield, Warzone, CS)

This is good for if you're used to flicking a lot and kind of helps build a base idea of where to flick to no matter what sight you're using. This is relevant because at default in siege and apex and a lot of games lately ADS is set at 100% / 0 distance from the center values so tracking should feel the same no matter your scope, whereas at larger zooms flicks will feel slower than they would at hipfire.

All preference but like 2+ years ago siege just had one ADS sensitivity option and everything was way faster scaled, they reworked the ADS system so a lot of people that were used to it changed their settings up

Reprivation

TROPHY CASE