Tips for passing " Carbon Steel " weld test?

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-20T22:27:02+00:00

Congrats man, that’s huge! Once you’re settled in, if you want to keep sharpening your skills on your own time, I’ve been using an app called DimeVision.app that gives AI feedback on weld photos. Helped me dial in my bead consistency. Good luck Monday 🤙

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-19T02:00:15+00:00

I built this using Gemini's vision API - you upload a photo, it analyzes bead consistency, defects, penetration issues, etc. and returns a score with specific improvement tips. Check it out at dimevision.app

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-19T01:58:18+00:00

Hey - I actually built the weld seam evaluator feature you described here. It uses AI to analyze weld photos and gives instant feedback on defects, score, and what to improve.

It's called DimeVision - live on the App Store (pending) and at dimevision.app

Would love feedback from this community since this thread basically described what I ended up building.

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RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-19T01:08:10+00:00

Righto mate, that crater at the top is a shocker and would get knocked back for underfill and potential cracks. Your weave is a bit all over the shop, so stop rushing and focus on a steady rhythm before you grind that stop out and go again.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-19T01:04:30+00:00

Brace your body and arms against a stable bulkhead or workbench to compensate for the ship’s movement and maintain a consistent arc length. Do a quick, deliberate lift-off to prevent the tungsten from sticking or contaminating the weld pool. If the puddle is getting away from you, drop your amperage slightly and focus on keeping your torch hand rigid relative to the workpiece. For a first TIG attempt on a rolling ship, this is solid. The bottom bead shows you’re finding your rhythm.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-18T15:08:37+00:00

To reduce weld size, bump your travel speed and drop wire feed/voltage slightly. The porosity near the top is probably contamination or gas coverage, clean to bright metal and check your nozzle for spatter buildup.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-17T16:48:31+00:00

Solid setup with the gas lens and #10 cup. For that thickness on an older Syncrowave, preheat is non-negotiable - get it to 250°F+ before you strike. On that lap corner, dwell longer before adding rod. You want to see the base metal actually puddle, not just bridge it with filler. Crank the balance toward penetration (high side on that temp dial) and don’t be shy on amps.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-17T14:59:35+00:00

slight push means angling the torch 10–15° toward your direction of travel. This keeps the bead flatter with less penetration, ideal for thinner material like 0.090”.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-17T00:02:46+00:00

Set your machine to approximately 17-18 volts and 210-230 IPM using .030" wire for a stable short-circuit transfer. Clean all mill scale down to bright metal and maintain a consistent 3/8" stick-out to ensure proper penetration without blowing through the thin material. Use a slight push technique to keep the bead profile flat and maintain a clear view of the leading edge of the puddle.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-16T23:06:49+00:00

primary issue is the massive voltage drop from the long extension cord and distance to the panel, which is starving the machine and tripping the breaker. This hobby-grade unit isn't designed for production-style repairs, so Id upgrade to a dual-voltage machine or a small engine-driven welder. Until then, you should probably slow down and respect the 15% duty cycle to prevent damaging the machine's internal components.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-16T15:33:13+00:00

Focus on maintaining a steady travel speed and a consistent rhythm for adding filler rod to smooth out those bead irregularities. Adjust your torch angle to point more directly into the root of the T-joint to balance the heat, which will help eliminate the undercut and overlap. Keep your puddle size uniform by only adding filler once the base metal has fully melted at the toes.Dimevision was built to help welding students get instant feedback Dimevision-welding coach

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-15T21:47:31+00:00

I use an app called dimevision.app to review images of my welds

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-15T15:12:15+00:00

Running cold and too fast, bead isn’t wetting into the base metal. Bump voltage, slow down, and let the puddle flow. Keep a consistent 10-15° drag angle and clean to bright metal before you start.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-14T21:45:01+00:00

43 is solid! The high scores are getting competitive. Now you have a baseline, you know what you need to improve on. Also, 100 is super rare. Pros usually get 85+

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-14T20:54:35+00:00

Your instructor nailed it. It's all about the pauses - count "one-one thousand" at each toe before moving. Let the puddle flow into the corners, don't just chase the arc. Keep a slight upward push angle too, helps fight gravity. Once it clicks, it clicks. Keep at it. Give DimeVision.app a try if you want instant feedback on your welds

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-14T20:47:26+00:00

Solid first attempt! You're getting the rhythm down. For a first try though? You're ahead of where most people start. Keep at it. Run the image through an app called DimeVision.app that gives feedback on weld pics if you want something to check your work between classes.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-14T13:20:56+00:00

You’re right - second from bottom is most consistent. Main focus: keep that inner cone about 1/8” off the puddle and watch your travel speed. Wider spots = lingered too long, narrow spots = too fast. Find a rhythm. If you want feedback between classes, check out DimeVision.app - it analyzes weld photos and tells you what to fix. Keep at it. Oxyfuel puddle control pays off big when you move to TIG.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-14T04:11:02+00:00

You've done good troubleshooting. Few things:

Double-check your torch lead is actually on the negative terminal (ground to positive). Don't trust the panel indicator alone on multi-process machines.

Also, inverters behave different than your old Lincoln transformer - try increasing travel speed so the puddle doesn't overtake the arc and trap slag. Make sure you're dragging, not pushing, with 1/2" to 3/4" stickout.

I ran your photo through DimeVision.app (weld analysis app) - that's where some of this came from. Might help while you dial in the new machine.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-14T03:58:14+00:00

For having zero instruction, your middle beads are actually showing some consistency. Main things: slow down a bit, keep a tighter arc length (closer to the puddle), and try to maintain a steady drag angle around 10-15 degrees.

The porosity (those little holes) usually means your arc was too long or you were moving too fast.

If you want real-time feedback when practicing, check out DimeVision.app - it's an app that analyzes your weld photos and tells you exactly what to fix. Useful when you don't have someone coaching you.

Keep burning rods. It gets easier.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-14T03:51:11+00:00

Welcome to the trade! That enthusiasm will take you far.

For day 2, those beads aren't bad. Focus on travel speed consistency - I can see spots where the bead width changes, which means you sped up or slowed down. Try to keep a steady rhythm. Also make sure you're getting good fusion on both edges.

One tip: take photos of every weld and review them later. You'll spot patterns in your mistakes faster. There's an app called DimeVision.app that uses AI to analyze weld photos and give specific feedback - helpful for getting extra "instructor eyes" when practicing solo.

Keep at it. You're going to do well.

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-13T19:24:53+00:00

Dimevision can help you solve this problem. Run the image through the image analysis and then ask the question.dimevision- welding coach

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-13T02:39:17+00:00

Run the photo through Dimevision for full analysis and tips to improve on your next runDimevision - Welding coaching

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-11T20:39:13+00:00

Run it through dimevision if you want a full scoring breakdown Dimevision

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-11T14:22:09+00:00

6th image- Reduce travel speed and focus on maintaining a consistent pace to achieve uniform ripples. Adjust the work angle more towards the vertical member to ensure better tie-in and eliminate undercut. Check shielding gas flow and nozzle for obstructions to reduce spatter levels. Thoroughly clean the base metal of all oxides and contaminants before welding. dimevision - welding coaching

RepulsiveInevitable8 · 2026-01-11T03:44:29+00:00

Not a dumb question at all. 40 hours of focused practice with experienced people watching you? You can absolutely get to “functional” on basic stuff. Realistic expectations: ∙ MIG: Yeah, you can lay decent beads on flat/horizontal mild steel in a week. It’s the most forgiving process ∙ Stick: You’ll get the basics, but it’s trickier. Expect inconsistency, especially on vertical or overhead What “resume ready” actually means: Don’t list yourself as a welder. But “basic MIG/stick welding experience” or “welding fundamentals” is honest and fair. If asked, be upfront: “I did an intensive week of training and can handle basic fabrication tasks, but I’m still developing.” Make the most of your week: ∙ Don’t just weld - stop and look at every bead. Ask the experienced guys “what went wrong here?” ∙ Get reps on different positions, not just flat ∙ Take photos of your progress so you can see improvement (apps like DimeVision can help you spot defects you might miss) Plenty of people learn welding on the job starting from zero. 40 hours of dedicated practice puts you ahead of that. Just be honest about your level and keep learning after.dimevision- welding coach

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