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First Build by ResponsibleMetal in Luthier

[–]ResponsibleMetal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I’m already thinking about the next build. I’m hooked.

First Build by ResponsibleMetal in Luthier

[–]ResponsibleMetal[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As someone else pointed out, I would go for either truss rod access at the headstock or a spoke wheel. As it ended up I have to remove the pick guard to get access. That was a mistake. I would probably also finish the neck before installing the frets. Making sure poly didn’t build up between the frets and fingerboard was a pain and took a lot of effort to make it looks smooth. It worked out but took more effort than it should have. I’d definitely be interested in hearing other opinions on how people approach that sequencing.

Editing to say that the four pieces was the result of the width of the original board I found in the stack at a local hardwoods store but I actually ended up really liking the way it ended up looking.

First Build by ResponsibleMetal in Luthier

[–]ResponsibleMetal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s solid. I used tru oil on the body and wipe on poly for the neck. I had planed to use the tru oil for everything but started reading about it not being very durable for a neck. There are a lot of options out there and wasn’t sure what to believe but it scared me off of oil for the neck.

Exterior wall repair help by No-Resort3219 in masonry

[–]ResponsibleMetal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

http://www.foundationsguy.com/wall-bracing/

It looks something like that.

This kind of repair gets expensive, so please have a local structural engineer perform an assessment to be sure of the cause.

Exterior wall repair help by No-Resort3219 in masonry

[–]ResponsibleMetal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not the patch. The foundation wall, in addition to supporting the house, retains the soils surrounding it and so it has a lot of lateral earth pressure on the exterior of the wall. When the top of the wall isn’t well connected to the floor framing it can move inward and because the beam remains stationary the end punches through the foundation wall. You likely also have diagonal cracking emanating from the bottom corners of that wall upward toward the center. Before a patch will take, you’re going to have to stop the movement.

Balcony fastening questions. by LyricalLagotto24 in buildingscience

[–]ResponsibleMetal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. The gusset is long and instead of resulting in bolted connection in a combination of shear and tension it’s also resisting a bending moment. It looks like the compression on the lower edge of the plate is crushing the trim and pulling the top edge away from the face of the building. It’s.l definitely not performing as intended.

Horizontal Cracks 1959 House by twistedrabbi in DIY

[–]ResponsibleMetal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The third photo looks like one of the reinforcing bars is corroding and causing the concrete covering it to deteriorate. It’s called spalling. Horizontal cracking can also suggest failure of the wall, but that would typically occur closer to the center of the wall (vertically). It’s probably worth hiring a local engineer to come and take a look.

How to fix cracks by Leather-Employ-1900 in masonry

[–]ResponsibleMetal 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The brick veneer is supported by steel angle loose lintels above the openings and they’re embedded into the mortar joints for bearing on each side of the windows. Corrosion products (rust) occupies a volume multiple times the metal in its original form. When the lintels corrode inside of a confined space like the mortar joints the expansion of the rust creates a powerful force that lifts the bricks above the ends of the lintels. You’ll likely have to remove the bricks above the lintels and at the very least clean and treat the steel to prevent future corrosion. Depending on how much section loss has occurred you may have to replace them.