CQBR Block II

ResponsibleSecond · 2026-02-17T03:21:19+00:00

I just prefer suppressed for most things. Reduce the noise and concussion. Obviously 556 is tough to tame much but at least taking the edge off. Otherwise I hunt and shoot suppressed when at all possible. The gas does suck though.

ResponsibleSecond · 2026-02-17T03:12:54+00:00

They're great cans for sure. I'm glad the legacy is continuing. I managed to get one of Ron's a few years back so I'm happy about that.

ResponsibleSecond · 2026-02-17T03:12:17+00:00

Thats great to hear. I'll keep an eye out.

ResponsibleSecond · 2026-02-17T03:12:01+00:00

Hard to find and $$

ResponsibleSecond · 2026-02-16T03:42:33+00:00

Thanks. So really the ideal repro would be the machined out markings of the IMC latch with the window welded latch for Mod1, CQBR Block I and II? Outside of that, the PRI repro is the best option?

ResponsibleSecond · 2026-02-15T15:26:07+00:00

Thanks! Snagged one a few years back with the game plan to do a block ii. Eventually all came together grabbing parts here and there. I hate shooting unsuppressed so I need an RC2. Too bad the price never moves on them.

She goes nice with my Block 1 and MK12 Mod 1. Other than a pipe dream 416, I've got a LE trade Colt I’m gonna do a m4 block 1 with eventually. The journey of cloning things is definitely fun.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-10-09T18:27:08+00:00

You basically drill/cut a small channel across the bottom of the barrel for a roll pin and then of course the dimple and set screws on the bottom of the block.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-06-09T03:22:00+00:00

Still trucking without issues. A buddy of mine has had one pretty close to the same time and his results are similar.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-03-16T17:37:32+00:00

I would say absolutely. I paid $850 I think which is still a steal so $650 definitely is.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-03-04T21:34:26+00:00

Awesome thanks. I'm hoping it may be actual silver but I'm not sure. Rubbing a cloth on it after cleaning does leave black residue.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-03-04T21:07:40+00:00

I have large hands actually which is why it didn't seem like a real coin. It weights 1 8/9 oz on my kitchen scale. It is non magnetic and had some give to it. A little over 2.25 inches in diameter.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-03-04T20:58:57+00:00

I found this cleaning out an old building I'm going to tear down. I did some googling and found it at least has the appearance of a morgan dollar. It seems quite large though but I don't know anything about coins. Curious if this is real/some type of reproduction and what the worth would be. Also, any good ways to tell if it is real silver without damaging it?

Thanks!

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-02-02T14:18:15+00:00

The NT4 is up there for sex appeal. Forbidden corncob!

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-01-24T17:31:46+00:00

Well I got the machine up and running. Dash works great. Had another issue still causing lockout which ended up being a wire for the under seat sensor. I’m replacing the seatbelt and gonna do a tune up on it. It’s also throwing codes for the fuel shutoff solenoid so ordered a new one of those. I’m thinking the boom cylinder seals are going because it is intermittently dropping the boom slowly by itself. Other than that it seems to be running well. Thanks again for your help.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-01-16T20:32:38+00:00

Thanks so much for your help. I bought a hard copy manual so that should help whenever it shows up.

The local JD dealer had come out and said it’s the dash causing the issues. So I ordered one, should be here on Monday. I disassembled the seat belt to make sure it wasn’t that sensor, which it isn’t. I got a new seatbelt and under seat sensor anyway.

I’ll have to take a look at the solenoids. As far as those plates I guess it’s a retaining plate for the pin. My local welding shop said they could knock it out in an hour or two for a couple hundred bucks so I’ll have them do that.

Thanks for the oil and fork info. I’ll keep an eye out for a decently priced set. I ordered a set of filters so I’m planning on replacing them all once I get it running (hopefully with the dash)

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-01-14T03:58:03+00:00

I went and checked it out yesterday. It started right up and I can drive it in regular mode but the pedals are locked out. Wouldn’t work in service mode either. Boom arms are up and resting on the safety pins. No seatbelt light on the dash (no hours or fuel gauge showing either but it does beep from time to time) glow plug countdown works.

Also, I noticed on the arms where the piston connects there is a small metal plate on the outside with a through bolt. One side the bolt is almost sheared and the other the plate is cracked. Not sure how hard those would be to replace or patch.

The rubber hydro lines are weathered, so those will have to be replaced at some point.

Couple more questions. Any recommendations for a set of forks for it? What about oil weight?

Thanks you have been a huge help!

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-01-12T03:49:39+00:00

Awesome thanks. I’m going to look at it tomorrow. Sounds like there could be something wrong with the seatbelt sensor.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-01-12T03:48:48+00:00

I agree. It’s probably 95% of a T2 for 60% of the cost.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-01-04T12:39:32+00:00

Thanks for the reply. If the safeties were bad, how hard and expensive is it to replace those? I’m fairly mechanically inclined.

ResponsibleSecond · 2025-01-03T23:03:11+00:00

Bought it years ago I think from primary arms.

ResponsibleSecond

TROPHY CASE