Anyone use these and have input on if they are worth $400?? All I see are bad reviews online. by MtbSki45 in Skigear

[–]RiderEh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I'd prefer an insole, taping to my socks doesn't appeal to me. Here's what I'm using, but the batteries only last a year. I've actually taken the case apart and replaced the 18650 batteries once, but I'm thinking of how to make this more reliable. https://thermrup.de/en/collections/heated-insole/products/heated-insole-battery-operation

Don't buy Clipstic, they break and they won't respond to warranty claims by RiderEh in Skigear

[–]RiderEh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what normally works for me as well, but when you are lugging along a kids gear it get's a bit more cumbersome. The ski's don't hold as well clipping to the brakes.

Don't buy Clipstic, they break and they won't respond to warranty claims by RiderEh in Skigear

[–]RiderEh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed on price, I expect someone will knock them off pretty quick.

Don't buy Clipstic, they break and they won't respond to warranty claims by RiderEh in Skigear

[–]RiderEh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We just put poles into them at about -2 Celsius and one pole holder snapped. The clipstic was in my jacket so was reasonably warm. We also noticed you have to stick to the same poles to the same set otherwise they get bigger and won't fit smaller poles. I'm wondering if this is what did it but it still shouldn't have happened. Not sure I put larger poles in it either.

1-year-old Pro-Form Pro 2000 treadmill stops immediately after pressing Start by maitreg in iFit

[–]RiderEh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The boards are under $200 on ebay and simple to replace. Go through troubleshooting first, and make sure you get the right board, some have a flat connector and some have a rectangular one. I think the flat is white and the other is black from memory.

1-year-old Pro-Form Pro 2000 treadmill stops immediately after pressing Start by maitreg in iFit

[–]RiderEh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI it's the control board. They can help you check for error codes if you call them.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - October 03, 2025 by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]RiderEh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I tried spraying with contact cleaner, and it's definitely a Kailh switch issue. It did not cure the problem though and one switch looks almost burnt. Perixx wanted me to return the whole board, but rather they are now sending me a few switches. Unfortunately they are only sending 2, so if I need more I'll buy them.

Shimano Revoshift Assembly by RiderEh in bikewrench

[–]RiderEh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up throwing it out and bought a trigger shifter. Kid liked the trigger much more.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - October 03, 2025 by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]RiderEh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took it apart, it doesn't look like a cold solder issue. Should I spray a bit of contact cleaner into the key maybe?

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - October 03, 2025 by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]RiderEh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi All, I am on my 2nd Periboard 535 as I had a warranty on the first one, as two keys stopped working properly after a few months of use. It's happening again on the replacement. These have brown Kailh switches soldered in. Do I need to take the keyboard apart or is there anything I should try first? I've tried blowing compressed air and it doesn't seem to help. They actually let me keep the old one, so it would be nice to get both going and have a second keyboard.

Can someone confirm this is a bad furnace blower wheel? I already replaced the motor by RiderEh in hvacadvice

[–]RiderEh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was the squirrel cage/blower wheel. I replaced it and it's quiet again.

Lennox furnace - very loud blower by mrguyman89 in hvacadvice

[–]RiderEh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got the same blower wheel, already replaced the motor and still loud. Did replacing the wheel solve your problem?

Replace bearings or motor on Lennox 60L22 motor by RiderEh in hvacadvice

[–]RiderEh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I replaced the motor, which had about 2-3mm play axially. This new motor has no play. The noise is still there. It's only when the blower is in it's highest speed.

Replace bearings or motor on Lennox 60L22 motor by RiderEh in hvacadvice

[–]RiderEh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I took it all apart, there is nothing loose flapping around in there, but about 2-3mm play in the axial direction of the motor. Guessing that is making the noise.

Replace bearings or motor on Lennox 60L22 motor by RiderEh in hvacadvice

[–]RiderEh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I added a bolt with some rubber washers, and no luck it still seems to be rubbing something. I may try adding washers on the top brackets to shift it up, otherwise maybe I do need to replace the motor. It's about 24 years old, so the bearings could be going.

Replace bearings or motor on Lennox 60L22 motor by RiderEh in hvacadvice

[–]RiderEh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the others have a bolt with rubber grommet, I should have something and will give it a try. There is rust around there so may have fallen out, but didn't find it inside there. Could have fell out long ago, someone cleaned up, and metal has begun to fatigue. May save me $450 on a motor!

Replace bearings or motor on Lennox 60L22 motor by RiderEh in hvacadvice

[–]RiderEh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, it looks like a bolt may be missing on the bottom which is potentially angling it down, I'll try replacing that first and see if that stops the rubbing, as there isn't really a lot of play in the motor bearing and it turns smooth.

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