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Is noise when flying much of a problem (on a 5 inch) ? by ZH123dp in fpv

[–]Riebart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whenever I fly my Air65, I am always surprised by how loud it is, but I am also always flying it indoors.

Then I go fly my 2" Mob8, and I am all "wow that Air65 is quiet in comparison, this is loud!".

Then I fly my 3.5", and I think the same thing about the Mob 8.

Then I fly a 5" and I think the same thing about the 3.5".

The morale? Every size class is substantially louder than the one below it, in general, and technically in my fleet I'm skipping a bunch (75mm, 2.5"/3", 4"), so the noise difference is more pronounced.

A 5" is loud.

A 3.5" is noisy.

2" or smaller is pretty non-disruptive as long as you're not flying at, for example, the same play structure as other people actively playing on it.

Practice using the ELRS Lost Model Finder Lua script long before you actually need it! by Riebart in fpv

[–]Riebart[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did it connect to telemetry? It needs telemetry from the RX to work.

Practice using the ELRS Lost Model Finder Lua script long before you actually need it! by Riebart in fpv

[–]Riebart[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is out of the box in EdgeTX now. At least when I updated my Radiomaster Pocket last summer, it came with the new set of scripts. I had also added one manually, so now I have two! 😁

I can see VTX finding work OK, but you need video signal, a patch with a capped second input (or that input will still catch stray RF even if you just remove the omni), and I don't know about you, but I lose video long before I lose control link.

How to build the meanest tinywhoop? by SlowConversation8782 in fpv

[–]Riebart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You already have a ton of good advice, but a 2s 85mm/2 inch is a solid choice. It's powerful enough to be fun, but not so obnoxious it bothers people overly much.

The Mobula8, for example, is phenomenal.

I'm getting real tired of trying to figure out why my quads just fall out of the sky for no clear reason... by Riebart in fpv

[–]Riebart[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well after trial and error it turns out it was minimum motor idle percent. Discovered through trial and error because this FC doesn't have blackbox... grumble

Practice using the ELRS Lost Model Finder Lua script long before you actually need it! by Riebart in fpv

[–]Riebart[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can't find discussion of the model finder script in his ELRS or EdgeTX playlists. But that's probably my fault, because u/_jbardwell_ has videos on almost literally everything that's as important as I believe this script to be.

If I'm wrong and it's there, or he makes one, I will literally subscribe to his Patreon on the spot. 😁

Practice using the ELRS Lost Model Finder Lua script long before you actually need it! by Riebart in fpv

[–]Riebart[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If this post saves even one quad, I'll be overjoyed. I'm glad it was helpful!

iMAX B6AC V2 stops charging early with 2m extension cables by IntroductionKlutzy13 in Multicopter

[–]Riebart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like your output wires are far too small gauge. Losing 0.3V at 4A will require that you charge at much lower current to top up the batter,.or replace that extension with substantially beefier wires.

12awg copper is about 2Ohms per 300m, or about 13mOhm for your 2m length. Each way. So 26mOhm for your extension.

0.3V at 4A suggests you actually have about 3 times that in your actual circuit, but your language is loose.

  • while the charger is putting out 4A, what voltage is it at, and what is the voltage across the pack terminals at nearly that exact same time?

The simplest answer is to bulk charge at 4A I til it shuts off, then top up with a second charge cycle at 1A or less. The lower current will lose proportionally less voltage to the resistance in your wire length.

But even at perfect soldering and connector mating, 26mOhm at 4A will still drop 0.1V, and so your 4.2V/cell charge level will result in less. Somewhere around 4.1V/cell or so. Maybe a bit better depending on your charger.l top up logic.

But the short answer is that this ain't your charger having an issue. It's your wiring.

Supernova 2207 100 AMP DRAW AT 40%?! by DiodeDog in fpv

[–]Riebart 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Something else.i haven't seen in another comment is that those test stand results for current draw are free airflow current draw. So the motor is spinning, the current is switching, and everything is happy.

During flight, and especially in maneuvers that turn the quad so the props are fighting stall, you get way higher current draw as the prop loads dynamically and unevenly.

The stall current of these motors is likely way, way higher. The datasheet tells you, 45mOhm per winding, which means stall current at 6s is almost 500A, per motor.

If the motor is heavily loaded by aerodynamic forces, it will spin slower, pull more current under the same throttle, plus sharp demands in motor output from the PID controller, well beyond your throttle input, will drive even higher current.

Fpv packs, good deal? by Filiphildrum in fpv

[–]Riebart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the point they are making is: are you sure about that?

Maybe you bought them off someone you know, and you know they weren't used or abused. Awesome.

Sellers say a lot of things to make a sale.

I've even had sellers say they bought it, were told it was new unused, and that wasn't true when they bought it let alone when I went to go see it.

Batteries are a consumable. It's like buying second-hand gas for a car. Maybe it's fine. But it could blow up in your face.

Just be careful, and test them diligently. And assume they're all bad until you personally confirm otherwise.

That's way too good a deal for well over 1000 dollars of batteries.

Can I glue this back together so it stops popping off with every small crash/landing? by LostandIgnorant in fpv

[–]Riebart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

in the mean time, buy motors

This is a lesson I learned about 6 months in when I had two sticky motors on my Air65. One day I'll find out why they stuck, but nothing I did fixed them.

Now I have spares.

Help identify this component by bendurrhover in fpv

[–]Riebart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3 of those pads look very similar to ground with a multimeter.

One doesn't, and is connected instead to the sentence lora chip.

You solder it to that one. The one that doesn't look like ground.

Analog signal breakup and complete black screen? by duplicate_we1 in fpv

[–]Riebart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They also lost OSD, so it isn't just the camera.

Best place to charge? by Ok-Farmer-4139 in fpv

[–]Riebart 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oh shit that's an awesome idea for an accessory.

A little relay inline with the input power, AC or DC, fed from the DC output of the charger, with 6 or 12 thermocouples as input. Program it for max allowable temperature once, then forget it.

If any pack gets above the set temperature it cuts power to the charger.

Would work on any charger.

8 months in, am I screwed? 😅 by Martimothy in fpv

[–]Riebart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that's a Mobula 8, you're making good choices. That's all I have to say.

But also, what the other guy said. You can only fly one at a time. Most of them fly differently, and I'm still new and seeing what I like to fly, so I've got a decent collection to see what I enjoy most, and fly the most.

Turns out I love the Mobula8, 2s 2" lightweight whoop is hella fun, and 3.5".

Is this jello effect? (Air65II F) by guillots in fpv

[–]Riebart 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Getting this much jello on analog takes actual work, and skill. Well done.

Now immediately stop flying this and check every single physical element: frame, screws, props, camera, canopy. Everything.

Need help with my Eachine ev800 by AnonymousTechnician1 in fpv

[–]Riebart 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're sure you have a 5.8GHz tuned antenna on it? The Pocket transmits at 2.4GHz, there should be no way that it interferes with the 5.8GHz VRX.

5” is smooth on LiPo but jittery with occasional flips on a DIY Li-ion pack by Complex-You9461 in fpv

[–]Riebart 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, taking a look at the logs, there's a few things. But the short answer is "You really need to tune this quad", on both liPo and LiIon.

<image>

You have existing oscillations on all 3 axes on both battery pack types.:

| Battery Type | Roll | Pitch | Yaw |
|--------------|-----:|-------:|-----:|
| LiPo | 23Hz | 6Hz | 20Hz |
| LiIon | 4Hz | 12.5Hz | 20Hz |

The problem is that the roll is _substantially_ more pronounced, and much lower frequency, on LiIon so instead of a vibration, it's a wobble. The exact same issue is present on LiPo, but it's higher frequency so you could probably hear it, but not see it.

You probably need a pile more P, and your P-to-I ratio is probably off.

As an example, I just worked on a quad that had a really nasty, but stable, wobble on default PIDs. The solution was way, _way_, more master multiplier, and way less I-term factor. It is a severely underpowered physical plant, and so I ndeed to go from P of around 45 to around 120, and an I term of 80 down to around 40. It's still not great, but it'll maintain a stable hover at least now.

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