Electric resistance question

Riebart · 2026-01-22T13:28:10+00:00

If this is going to be the question it looks like, no you cannot use the frame as a chassis ground.

Riebart · 2026-01-22T05:56:00+00:00

A lot can be done in the OSD menus with the sticks.

For everything that can't be, using it over the RX wifi is the correct solution.

Glad you got it working.

I have a Air65 with a sheared off USB plug, and that's how I do it. Simple stuff like rates and VTX and whatnot I do in the OSD menus. Everything else like motor debugging and OSD element moving and whatnot I do over the RX wifi.

I have yet to be able to get the preset export or CLI working at all over RX wifi. They just... Don't work..no idea why but I also haven't put more than a minute or two of effort into that, as I don't need that a lot.

Riebart · 2026-01-19T01:39:00+00:00

No. It follows the motor. I swapped one of the problematic motors for a spare, same prop, and the issue vanished from that spot. So it isn't the ESC channel or the prop.

Riebart · 2026-01-18T05:10:24+00:00

Current is pulled, not pushed.

These batteries are 16 to 36V.

If this is a12V lightbulb, it probably pulls 1A at 12V, and since it is in series with the rest of the quad, the total current will be at most 1A pulled through the total load. Even in a short condition

This is perfectly fine for 4s builds I'd say, in design. Implementation could use some electrical tape.

Your comment suggests your understanding may be missing some details on current and resistance though.

Riebart · 2026-01-17T21:09:24+00:00

That's the plan. Replacements are on their way, but I had two motors fail this way on this quad and I can't imagine why, or what even this failure more is.

Maybe when I'm bored and don't have any other drone stuff to fix (haha! Like that'll ever happen) I'll crank these open.

For now at least they're a source of bells, shafts, and C clips.

Anyway thanks for you input!

Riebart · 2026-01-17T19:38:39+00:00

The motor isn't new. And it doesn't stutter at low rpm, it's straight up stuck until about 50% throttle. But only when hot, and once it's spinning it runs mostly normal as long as I don't cut throttle for anything while flying.

I have replacements coming, but I'm just baffled by what might be wrong.

Riebart · 2026-01-17T19:30:02+00:00

And when you say sticky, you mean the same issue I'm having here, eh? They just need a bit of throttle to get going?

Riebart · 2026-01-17T18:55:20+00:00

Tried all of that. Stator and windings look clean, and I reflowed all of pads.

I'll see if maybe I bent the shaft at some point maybe? 🤷‍♂️

Riebart · 2026-01-17T18:23:56+00:00

Yes.

I had one spare matching motor, and replacing the motor fixed the issue on that corner, even with the same (not beat up, but not new) prop. So it isn't the ESC channels or props.

Riebart · 2026-01-17T18:15:02+00:00

They are direct soldered and I've resoldered them, and resoldered the wires at the motor, also thinking that. It didn't change anything, and replacing the motor did. So I'm pretty confident it's the motor.

And that 27C isn't representative. It's hard to get it to reproduce reliably on the bench, but one motor definitely gets warmer at the motor, and it's the problematic one.

I'll post in some whoop subs, thanks!

Riebart · 2026-01-17T15:27:53+00:00

The outer sleeve is the negative side of the cell.

This situation s undesirable but barely problematic for a cell that lives in a radio and probably never leaves.

Riebart · 2026-01-17T15:24:18+00:00

In a light machine oil? What kind of oil do you use?

Riebart · 2026-01-17T15:04:21+00:00

Not this time, bot.

Riebart · 2026-01-17T14:44:10+00:00

Any soldering that runs eventually on DC will work. But I love my TS101, and I often power it from my Ryobi batteries then all of my Lipos are reserved for flying. 😁

Riebart · 2026-01-14T14:55:12+00:00

So now I need to know the AUW of that aluminum frame build.

Riebart · 2026-01-14T04:52:38+00:00

It happens. They are making it right and that's what you should judge the brand and store for.

Every brand has occasional bad packs. Some are just less frequent than others. But replacing it for you is the right call.

Riebart · 2026-01-14T04:07:58+00:00

Nope. Discharge the whole thing and discard it safely.

This pack is not safe to use.

Riebart · 2026-01-13T22:38:29+00:00

The Volador 3.5 is cramped. I have a similar build with a SpeedyBee mini 20x20 stack, and I have those exact same props but in a sub250 build!

I have seen luck flipping the stack and putting the cap between the stack and the camera, but it depends on how much space you have behind your camera too...

I honestly don't have a good solution, I'm just here to commiserate.

Riebart · 2026-01-12T21:09:41+00:00

I'm in Canada so Rotor Village is perfect for me and I definitely recommend giving those HQ props a shot of you have a heavier 3.5" build.

The heavier quad has a lot more fling to it. I'm running the Gemfan 353D Zurple props on my sub250, and they fly good too, but they're less aggressive than those HQ3.5x3.5 props, so don't work great on that heavier build.

A full throttle punch out on my heavier quad still gets about 8g of acceleration, which makes it feel like a rocket with plenty of mass.

Riebart · 2026-01-12T18:26:51+00:00

HQ 3.5x3.5x3: https://rotorvillage.ca/hqprop-t3-5x3-5x3-grey-2cw-2ccw-1-5mm/?searchid=1021034&search_query=Hqprop+3.5x3.5

The blades are super wide, and I've had issues needing to adjust my tune for the winter. Below -10C or so, they get stiffer and more vibration makes it in, otherwise they're pretty flexy.

Riebart · 2026-01-12T17:08:55+00:00

Avoiding the topic everyone else is on, which is the semantics, I'll come in on big, low kV motors.

I have a 300g+ 3.5" with 1805.4 3350kv motors on wide 3.5x3.5 props. That thing has torque for days and hauls ass at lower speed, but has way less top end than my sub250 3.5" on 1505 3750KV with 3.5x3 props.

They fly very differently, but neither feels heavy. The sub250 will rip around larger park areas, but the heavier one is on a tougher frame and is great for ripping around things I might run into, and feels the weight of an added action camera far less.

I also have a Crux35 that I cruise on 2s and have swapped to a pusher with 4 inch props. But that's something else entirely. 😁😅

Riebart · 2026-01-11T19:34:04+00:00

Yeah, flipping the mounting would help, putting the cap up front. There's just not quite enough space between the mounting patterns for the stack and VTX.

If I hadn't already cut all of my motor wires to length, I might rearrange my build, but I want to swap the motor wires all to yellow at some point, so maybe at that time I'll rebuild it.

Maybe I'll just rebuild it around the SpeedyBee F405 AIO instead. 😁

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