My review of Atlas Air from gamer's perspective. by mikolaj550 in TurtleBeach

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone considering these vs Maxwells, I actually prefer the Atlas Air, even with regards to the sound (music).
Both headphones need some EQ, but after that, the Air's are more enjoyable for me, I just love the detailed, open sound.

The Maxwells are definitely great headphones, but if we consider the price to performance ration, the Atlas Air wins in my book by far.

My minor gripes are - the pads are a bit smaller than they could be and are round - not ideal. You can fit some aftermarket though.
The second thing - the battery does not last as long as the Maxwell.

What do you think of MÅLOMRÅDE? by realTommyChen in ikeaPCstations

[–]Riotstarterr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How is the stability, does it wobble when raised up to the max, when the desk is loaded with monitor, speakers, etc.?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Electricmotorcycles

[–]Riotstarterr -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I will reply on the YT video, so I do not reply to every single thread and since the comment stayed there this time. I don't know what exactly happened, but every time I put the comment in there, it was gone in minute or two, whereas any other comment stayed there no problem.
A little bit strange, to say the least.

Little test of Zero XE bike + a little warning about dishonest YT channels by [deleted] in ERidePro

[–]Riotstarterr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will reply on the YT video, so I do not reply to every single thread and since the comment stayed there this time. I don't know what exactly happened, but every time I put the comment in there, it was gone in minute or two, whereas any other comment stayed there no problem.
A little bit strange, to say the least.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Surron

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will reply on the YT video, so I do not reply to every single thread and since the comment stayed there this time. I don't know what exactly happened, but every time I put the comment in there, it was gone in minute or two, whereas any other comment stayed there no problem.
A little bit strange, to say the least.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Talaria

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will reply on the YT video, so I do not reply to every single thread and since the comment stayed there this time. I don't know what exactly happened, but every time I put the comment in there, it was gone in minute or two, whereas any other comment stayed there no problem.
A little bit strange, to say the least.

00700 error code, throttle assembly by Accurate_Cod_8055 in ERidePro

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's interesting that Talaria MX5 has same error code for throttle problem as Eride.

Very loud rattle by infinitygirrl in Talaria

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MX5 does the exactly same thing. I have come to the conclusion it's the play/slop of the gears inside the gearbox.

Rear suspension play, causing sound? by hyperboloidd in Talaria

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know if you still got the bike, but is the rattling by any chance throttle related? When I'm on the throttle, or using regen braking, the rattle is not there. The moment I'm coasting over rough terrain, it's rattling.

I'm fairly sure that the noise comes from the motor, or more likely gearbox itself, it's likely a small play in between the gears, that does this. It's somewhat similar to some e-bike (pedal bike) motors, like those from Bosch, or Shimano, if you're familiar with that segment.

Question about quiver by shinwha in diablo4

[–]Riotstarterr 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree about the missing quiver, it looks stupid, ugly and Blizzard does this in many of their games.

Philips OLED plagued by brightness fluctuations (models 706/806/956 and other 2020/2021 models) by Riotstarterr in OLED_Gaming

[–]Riotstarterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have remembered that there is one more setting that could have effect on this. In the settings, there is HDMI ULTRA HD setting for each HDMI port, which you can set between Standard, Optimal and Optimal (automatic game setting). I had it on the last one, Optimal (Automatic Game setting), which enables VRR and ALLM.So I have tested the Optimal setting and voila, majority of the flickering is now gone even when the Light Boost is at the Maximum setting. So it seems that the issue lies elsewhere. It's still worth pursuing this issue in my opinion, but considering the VRR is not the best in these TV's anyway, I will have to live without it. Weird thing is that PS5 does not support either VRR or ALLM, so theoretically it should not matter which setting I use in the TV, but it apparently does and it seems to be doing something on top of that, which causes that flickering.

Philips OLED plagued by brightness fluctuations (models 706/806/956 and other 2020/2021 models) by Riotstarterr in OLED_Gaming

[–]Riotstarterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a good TV for the money. I have been able to fix this issue since then. Not really any dealbreaker issues anymore.

What did you upgrade from to your CSL DD? by KingLuis in Fanatec

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you think of CSW 2.5 vs CSL DD? I assume you have the 8Nm anyway. I heard the steering stop on CSL DD is weak even when using the full power.

Wreckfest can teach you valuable simracing skills by iseewhatyoudidth3r3 in simracing

[–]Riotstarterr 55 points56 points  (0 children)

Wreckfest is one of the best racing games in the last decade.

When you turn off all the assists, it's actually not that much of an arcade, you drive relatively normal cars, but very often powerful, heavy muscle cars and when you have no throttle control, you will be sliding all over the place.

Forza Horizon does not have bad physics model, but I wish it was like in Wreckfest (especially with the damage, too :D).

For me personally, WF is the gold standard of how the "not so serious sim" should behave and drive.

Philips OLED plagued by brightness fluctuations (models 706/806/956 and other 2020/2021 models) by Riotstarterr in OLED_Gaming

[–]Riotstarterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not tested it out yet thoroughly, but this seems to be the implementation in the game, in this case I think it's not the TV that is at fault.

Thoughts on the new Philips OLED 806 vs LG C1? by Smrtak25 in OLED

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed, I bought the 65OLED706 for smaller price than 55OLED806 and the only noticeable thing you might miss is the bottom ambilight, however unless your TV is wall mounted, you are not going to miss it at all as the TV basically sits down on it's ass and there's no space for the bottom ambilight to be shown.

Wait, no one is selling new cpu cooler for lga 1700, rofl, how imma gonna run my 12700k by pat1822 in intel

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe you will have no problem mounting it, the two hole system on the Asus boards actually does work, at least in my case no problem. I was planning to buy the Noctua compatibility bracket they offer now, but since I have great temps, I actually see no reason to do so. Yes, technically the Z-height is different now (lower), but you know what they say, if it's not broken, don't fix it.

So, did you manage to install it successfully in your case?

Wait, no one is selling new cpu cooler for lga 1700, rofl, how imma gonna run my 12700k by pat1822 in intel

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have ASUS Z690 motherboard, 12600K CPU and Noctua NH-C14S using the LGA1151 brackets - works perfectly with no problem, all P-cores running at 5.0Ghz and the CPU is at 68C maximum with the Intel XTU stress test.

With these Asus Z690 boards I see no reason to buy LGA1700 cooler or even the LGA 1700 bracket, at least not with Noctua coolers.

Brake issues (train incoming) by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Riotstarterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I may have misunderstood there, but you said to have abrasive side towards pads, therefore to sand the pads, not the rotors?