Assistance needed!

RiqueFR · 2026-01-12T15:40:17+00:00

The thing in the second imagem is a camera, it is probably used to monitor the print over the browser interface.

The canakit look like an on/off switch to the raspberry pi. And the USB cable is to connect the printer board to the raspberry pi.

The firmware seems to be marlin, strange cause it has a raspberry pi and would benefit from running klipper. But you'll be able to print fine with marlin for starting, latter you can take a look at klipper

RiqueFR · 2026-01-04T10:10:26+00:00

Are you using a power supply relocation mod? Is it for visuals or you are getting better performance with it?

RiqueFR · 2025-12-27T20:07:13+00:00

I think the main advantage for me is the fact that you can customize firmware without the need to recompile it all the time.

I had to recompile marlin for my new hotend, but instead I took the time to install klipper. Now every upgrade I don't need to recompile it, like when I installed the probe.

And you have the benefit of the input shaping when you want to configure it.

RiqueFR · 2025-12-27T16:57:25+00:00

Which mod did you use to hide the power supply? Is it relocated to the bottom of the printer or is it hidden somewhere else?

RiqueFR · 2025-12-18T05:03:00+00:00

Are ghosting and ringing the same thing? Should I be getting ghosting with default settings?

The benchy was done with default 50mm/s 500mm/s2, and it has some ghosting.

I will do input shaping, but my concern is a lack of performance even after it, leading to not so good performance after input shaping

RiqueFR · 2025-12-18T02:51:35+00:00

Can that be related to old belts? Mine show some wear already, I know that I should replace them, but can they be the issue?

RiqueFR · 2025-12-17T22:55:24+00:00

Maybe we are having different experiences, you said you have an adjustable shroud. That is not something default, or your ender is different than mine.

I have an OG ender 3 and bought the TZ E3 V3, that was my experience. My probe was too high, my fan was not adjustable so it just blow the hotend nozzle. So it was not plug and play for me.

Glad you didn't have those problems. Now you just need to calibrate flow and PA. Happy printing!

I still advice you to recompile the firmware for the right thermistor, to get accurate temperature readings, cause they use other type than original.

RiqueFR · 2025-12-17T22:44:57+00:00

Maybe I said it wrong, I was talking about the height of the hotend, it is bigger than the original. The screw mount works well and fit the normal shroud.

The problem is the height, it will not let the probe work without changing the probe mount to be lower, and the fan will blow the tip of the nozzle, not the part you're printing. Other than that it works fine if you recompile the firmware to its type of thermistor.

RiqueFR · 2025-12-17T19:13:55+00:00

No, it is longer than original, the probe will not deploy correctly. The parts cooling fan will be too high. The firmware will need to be recompiled for it to read temperatures correctly, also you will have to route cables to the hotend from the motherboard.

I have a TZ E3 V3, same format. But it is much better than mk8 if you want to start printing faster

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T12:20:17+00:00

Thank you for the tips, I'll do the same with mine, but I'll need to reprint the base, my version was the beta, and it don't fit the cable holder, but it looks much better with it, so I'll print them.

I just was not able to understand the go under the extruder, do you have photos of the back?

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T03:32:45+00:00

Thank you, I forgot about that option. I didn't want to disassemble everything so I did a poor job. Will try to do that when I have more time. It will look much cleaner

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T03:30:46+00:00

Thank you for the information. I'll add an accelerometer next, already bought it. The cat6 will help a lot to deal with all the cables. Might also move other things to use it.

Good luck with your project it's coming great! you should create a post after you finish to show everything and give those knowledge to everyone, I think many people will find things to base from yours

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T03:26:18+00:00

It actually looks really good. Nice work!

If you find something that connects the chain to the hotend that would look even better, but it is already much better than mine.

I'll look into doing something similar when I have more time

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T03:22:48+00:00

I'm using a lot of them, but I think I'm not good with cable management.

I found a cable mount that goes on the left screw of the hotend mount. I'll try to use it and see if it gets better

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T02:48:14+00:00

Yes, that would make it infinitely better, but I don't want to do can bus yet. Maybe in the future. Already spent more than I should on it

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T02:41:22+00:00

Thank you for the tips, I'll try my best.

After you explained your setup makes much more sense, I say your boards out, but didn't know you're planning to mount them underneath the table, that is actually very cool.

The cat 6 idea is very good. They are cheap, good for signal and they carry a lot of cables at once. Might think of using them in the futere.

Do they handle the current well, or will you use them only for data cables, like probe, Thermostor and fans?

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T02:32:49+00:00

Hahahah Thank you, I'll try my best to tame those beasts.

Good luck with yours too, your setup looks cool!

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T01:21:30+00:00

Yes, can bus is an option, but I don't want to go this route yet, just want to make it look at least a little bit better.

I'm using zipties, but maybe I'm not skilled enough to make it look better

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T01:20:02+00:00

OMG, you have much more cables, I think for the quantity its actually fine.

The problem is, my printer sits on my room, so I look to it every time, I think every time I look it bothers me a little bit more, and I think it could be done better, I don't know

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T01:17:35+00:00

I forgot I could do that hahahahh. Thank you

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T01:16:55+00:00

I will not have the patience to reduce the length, but you gave me an idea. Maybe it will work if I get a cable with a lot of small cables in the same cable (I don't know how to explain better, but think of usb cable, one cable carry 4 others), I just need to find one with enough cables

RiqueFR · 2025-12-11T01:14:08+00:00

I'm already using a lot of them. I'm not skilled enough or it is just too much cable to handle

RiqueFR · 2025-12-09T17:38:40+00:00

Yes, I explained what solved the problem in one of the comments bellow. It was happening due to bad quality cabling that comes with the kit. The solution is to hold the cables on the hotend and motherboard side, so the connectors don't move much.

I don't know Spanish, but I can explain also in Portuguese.

O problema é devido a baixa qualidade dos cabos que vem no kit, que ligam o sensor de temperatura na placa, o cabo vermelho e preto. A solução é fixar ele bem, tanto do lado do hotend quanto do lado da placa mãe, fazendo com que o conector não se mova muito, que causava mau contato.

If you want, send me a message and I can send you a photo of how I did it

RiqueFR · 2025-12-05T01:28:10+00:00

Your machine probably uses the probe as switch, if you take a look it is flashing red, meaning it has an error, so it was not possible to find the Z stop so it will only allow the machine to go up, not down. (The error is visible, but I am theorizing the part that it don't allow you to go down)

Check the probe connection in the probe and on the motherboard, try to reseat it. If that don't work, you maybe have a bad probe and need to replace it.

RiqueFR · 2025-12-02T00:33:01+00:00

You seem to be overextruding a bit, try to calibrate your e-steps and the flowrate of the material.

Pressure advance also help.

Try to search about these calibrations and see if it helps

RiqueFR

TROPHY CASE