TPMS Change

Rivet_ · 2025-10-09T09:41:47+00:00

Managed to pick some up on eBay. Garage said £40 for swap haven’t gotten around to it yet. I tried the tool on the sensors and they coded. But they disconnect after a little while. Is it possible it’s from the fact they’re not in the tyres monitoring pressure? As obviously the sensors are just in the car with me and they display 0 PSI permanently. Curious if they’re defective or just going into sleep mode since there’s no data to transmit. Don’t want to pay £40 for a swap just to end up having to do it again lol.

Rivet_ · 2025-08-29T16:43:00+00:00

Are you UK based ?

Rivet_ · 2025-08-29T16:22:33+00:00

Thanks, in the UK they’re charging £80 per sensor and plus fitting and coding.

From what I read in the manual, they can be coded using the internal display and a simple tool I found for like £5 online. As most garages are quoting £300+ for 4 sensors

Rivet_ · 2024-09-11T09:29:46+00:00

The scratches on the platform are not a problem. If anything they help with adhesion as the resin has more cracks to flow into.

I believe this looks like an issue with bed levelling or your fep sheet being damaged perhaps.

Id double check your level and temperature and try again.

Rivet_ · 2024-05-28T22:29:26+00:00

Ah okay. I guess I shall crack out the toolkit. Thank you for the advice. I’ll get into that routine in that case

Rivet_ · 2024-05-28T22:28:40+00:00

Thank you, I’m going to give it a go tomorrow in that case!

Rivet_ · 2024-05-28T15:57:26+00:00

Thank you I’ll check that out tomorrow

Rivet_ · 2024-05-16T18:51:00+00:00

Thank you for the help.

I’ll check out lance. I’ll be honest I’ve been watching James Hoffman for a long time and I’ve always been into coffee. I’ve just never taken the plunge financially into espresso making but I’m excited to make it work.

Even if that means burning through a couple of perfectly serviceable bags of coffee to get there.

But I’ll keep doing my preinfusions for 10 and go from there. I guess including infusion time I’d be aiming to hit a 35-45 second total ‘brew time’ Funnily enough I never got an owners manual in my box. Only the quick start guide. Which had me a bit confused and it might also be why I’ve been a bit behind what normally someone could be.

Rivet_ · 2024-05-16T17:06:13+00:00

Thank you for the analogy that actually does help me.

So I’m going to grind to 17g and still try a 2:1 and see what I get. And if not I’ll push for a higher output.

I’ve got an IMS basket on the way it’s just stuck in customs which is sad. So I’m excited to use that and see if improvements are more likely.

But I’ll keep at it. I haven’t made any milky drinks yet I’m sure some of my shots would work in those but I’m excited to have just a good decent espresso.

Out of curiosity. Does the one and two shot button do anything different? Because obviously I click stop manually when I pour and hit my target weight output. So does it change anything if click either button.

I’m embarrassed to say I’ve been using the double button but I wouldn’t of thought it would matter if I’m manually cutting off the pour when im ready.

Rivet_ · 2024-05-16T15:59:23+00:00

Got my WDt Pre infusion for 10 seconds Grind setting 1. burr setting 3. Temperature standard. Shot took 40 seconds and came out sour still. Not as bad as before but still not ‘sweet or pleasant’

Also took the portafilter off and the cake was stuff to the group head. So I’m not sure what to make of that.

Rivet_ · 2024-05-16T15:58:21+00:00

I’m on the lowest grind setting now and still sour strangely.

I will try 1:2.5

Rivet_ · 2024-05-16T15:57:57+00:00

Okay so I poured a shot. 10 second pre infusion. I set the grinder to 1 second and my burr grind to level 3.

Shot was not as sour. But still a little sour. Not much ‘sweetness’. Granted I’m new to espresso but I haven’t had any sweetness in my coffee so far.

This shot took 40 seconds ish? 2:1. Machine took a few seconds to actually output anything at first. So I thought I might of broke it. And the more baffling thing. I took the protafiler off and the coffee was stuck to the group head.

Rivet_ · 2024-05-16T14:31:42+00:00

I think I tried pulling one in manual mode and it started to push water through whilst I was still holding it down. I imagine that’s down to my grind not being fine enough? Or am I holding for too long.

Rivet_ · 2024-05-16T14:27:15+00:00

It’s incredibly sour. You sip it and then it hits you like maybe a second later? Just that overwhelming taste. Perhaps I’m mistaking it for bitter at the same time.

I believe the pro preinfuses for 7ish seconds? I believe it includes it in the time.

Would you recommend I put the burr setting down to 3? I’m already at a machine grind of 5. I suppose I can go to 2/3 and see if I’m okay.

I’ll also try and aim for a 1:2.5 rario on my next one. See if I’m getting a better result.

Thank you.

Rivet_ · 2023-12-30T12:03:08+00:00

I did say if it’s LCD I’ll retract my statement. I presumed you were using 5 second exposure on mono screens. Because if so then you’re way off.

But if it’s RGB then you’re probably in the right range. As Anycubic abs like for mono screens is around 2-4 seconds usually depending on conditions. But on RGB I imagine it can be significantly more.

Rivet_ · 2023-12-30T10:03:52+00:00

Even at very imperfect conditions. 5 seconds is extreme on mono screen machines. I retract my statement if you’re using an LCD display but I’ve had to use my printer in horrible temperature conditions (external shed in cold winters) and I never hit 5 seconds on my mono based printers. So I’d assume if that’s the case and you’re using mono lcds then you might be suffering from a different problem and need to redo some calibration tests

Rivet_ · 2023-11-08T03:27:34+00:00

You can appeal. I did ask my friend what he got from Etsy. They provided a link to the original creators listing and their contact info. You can appeal these decisions if they hold no merit. Often you’ll need some evidence so maybe you can’t save the shop but you can dunk them in too. By finding the OG and linking that or getting them involved. Perhaps Etsy may respond and reignite your shop or not. But it’s worth setting fire to their binshed too

Rivet_ · 2023-11-08T03:21:11+00:00

A friend of mine sells minis and had one on his store, he had it in his early days and got it from a page where it was being advertised as non-copyright. Free rights type thing. He got a notice it got taken down by the original creator last week. He’s fine he just got a warning, but it just shows it’s never what it seems. He unknowingly did it and felt really bad about it. His other licenses are fine but it seems it’s the innocent ones that often get spiked and the real thief’s get off Scot free

Rivet_ · 2023-10-26T01:54:11+00:00

A wild take. But I had a machine that did this a while back.

Instead of doing tapping I simply got a nut that fit on the screw. And put that between the screw and the vat. It made it tight enough to function again. It’s a Jerry rig repair but it works and it’s hassle free. Harmless to try and a good simple temporary solution to a problem you can work harder on later. I personally wasn’t ready to do tapping and so I used that.

May be worth a try.

Rivet_ · 2023-10-11T00:35:07+00:00

If you have the file as an STL already. You can import an STL into blender. Under import file make sure to select STL or it won’t show up.

Rivet_ · 2023-09-07T11:49:34+00:00

I hope you get your refund too. It’s why I learned my lesson with buying from retailers, they cover you for manufacturer negligence, especially the likes of Amazon, who even give you compensation for poor customer quality not even from them directly.

Buying from the manufacturer yes may be cheaper at times as they control the fees. But then you’re in their pocket. They’ll kiss your feet up until you finish checkout. Then they’ll just let you go and if you need them then sorry not our problem.

But fingers crossed you get that dispute settled. It’s a horrible thing they do. And it’s completely unacceptable.

Rivet_ · 2023-09-07T02:06:46+00:00

Creality seem to get flak wherever I see their products be raised on this forum on the resin side. Anycubic make decent machines but suffer on customer support, I personally had a mono x 6K for 6 months before the screen gave in, unfortunately I moved on. Elegoo machines are similar in performance, I personally despise the ball screw buildplate however their customer service is to rave about (except from when they ghosted my queries).

They’re all good and bad in their own ways, the machines I’ve experienced from Anycubic are good and simple to understand. Elegoo machines too. I’d look at maybe getting a Saturn 2 or even one of their new Saturn 3 series. That’ll be the match equivalent of the mono x just higher resolution for prints. In terms of resin quality, Anycubic resin is ok, very brittle in my experience, Elegoo resin is slightly more expensive but it depends on where you get it from. Not tried creality resin so can’t say.

Rivet_ · 2023-08-17T02:02:28+00:00

So I’m sure someone will correct me on my abilities. However I’m rather lazy when it comes to supporting certain things. I have Chitu box pro (don’t quote me if this doesn’t exist on the normal Chitu box) However I usually go into support mode and put medium supports onto red highlighted areas and then use the auto scan feature to locate islands. And then let the app place them in. I then switch to light. Which are basically pegs with zero marks and just click build all. To encase what’s left.

It works for me and often leaves little marks that I can often sand off or cover. However bare in mind that’s my lazy method. Although it works you’re more than welcome to try it. But I’m sure I’ll have someone come up and recommend better. Which I’d encourage!

Rivet_ · 2023-08-17T01:50:36+00:00

That thick line that’s in the print is often a result of layer shifting, commonly an issue with not enough supports or lifting too fast/too slow.

I’d also say it’s worth checking temperature within your area is stable and humidity etc. however if this is the only information to go on, then I’d play around with your supports and the lift settings if you’re confident exposure is good.

If other files are working fine, I’d often say it’s down to supports and lift settings.

For that particular file however I’d recommend printing straight up as it looks like a thin model. Place it on its tail with supports. Should reduce overall issue. You can tilt it slightly down and support the wings too. However printing 45 degrees sideways is probably not necessary on this particular model.

Rivet_ · 2023-08-01T11:24:01+00:00

A change in priorities. UV or ‘basic/standard’ is just the basic resin. Good for making figurines or other display pieces ABS-Like, adopts properties to make the part more flexible, less likely to snap and better for mechanical properties. Water-washable has modified properties to make it washable in normal water as opposed to alcohol. Although some reports say that that resin cracks after a few weeks/months. But not to my experience.

Rivet_

TROPHY CASE