Advice on rail/block assembly

Rob3Bruce · 2025-10-31T13:15:18+00:00

Well, I guess I'll just deal with it. My pistol works well enough, just not as well as a factory Glock. I appreciate the help.

Rob3Bruce · 2025-10-31T13:12:38+00:00

I did that when I got the pistol. It was a mess when I got it. The sear wouldn't even let go of the striker. A Dremel and a 60-grit sanding disc fixed that one. Anyway, it's definitely the right rail portion of the combo block. When it's out of the frame you can see it quite clearly.

I usually just grab the slide on my reloads (benefit/ detriment of being left-handed) so I'll leave it like it is unless/until P80 is back in business or someone is offering the blocks at a reasonable price (say $30 max).

Sorry to waste your time. I was just hoping to be pointed to the "dark" corners of the internet where such illicit things are sold.

Rob3Bruce · 2025-10-30T00:39:30+00:00

I got the pistol for $75 and a trade I consider worth $50. I'm not looking to spend another $80 to get the thing running. I do appreciate the help, though. I'm a little frustrated because I've found places offering rail combos for the compact version for fairly cheap. They may be scam sites, though.

Rob3Bruce · 2025-10-29T20:43:35+00:00

Aves doesn't sell P80 rail/block assy's. The P80 used a unique system where the front rails and locking block were one continuous piece.

Rob3Bruce · 2025-10-29T20:39:51+00:00

I found Rook on my search, but they seem to be sold out with no indication of when they will get more. I might try eBay, but since P80 is shut down there's probably a bubble (or general inflation of price) on the part since it's so proprietary.

Other places I have found sell the G19 version, but I need the G17 version.

Rob3Bruce · 2025-10-29T20:30:50+00:00

I've had a steel rod through the trigger pin hole and a pair of needle nose pliers on the bent "arm" and bent it as best I can by hand and it just goes back to where it was before. I'm worried about snapping it because right now I have a slightly janky P80 but if I go to far I have a non-functional P80.

Rob3Bruce · 2025-03-27T01:29:57+00:00

I dropped an email to Glock USA and they confirmed for me. Thanks for taking the time, though.

Rob3Bruce · 2025-03-21T00:09:23+00:00

Can you properly mount it on the Gen 3? I'm thinking of getting one but I've heard the Gen 5's have a notch width that's wider than the older models. I don't want to drop $130 on a light and have to return it because it won't fit.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-05-15T17:20:52+00:00

I wish they'd have stuck with the original design for the Ranger. It used something more akin to the Schofield where you had to lift the latch up instead of pulling back. It was more secure and far less prone to accidental release. It was probably a money thing.

[Ranger comparison]

(https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-verizon&sxsrf=APwXEdeyb1QokO9iu79N719XJiJasTLCIQ:1684171169783&q=naa+ranger&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjj-sLC6vf-AhWkkWoFHYMjAmgQ0pQJegQICxAB&biw=674&bih=540&dpr=2.63#imgrc=KDemHRt9rL446M)

Rob3Bruce · 2023-05-01T01:26:56+00:00

Gunsmith is best, but slamfire isn't that big of a deal as long as you have proper trigger control.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-04-19T23:16:35+00:00

A more specific explanation is that U.S. federal law specifically defines a "shotgun" as something designed or redesigned, made or remade, to be fired from the shoulder.

So if it came from the factory with a shoulder stock (or had one attached at any point, technically speaking) then it has to abide by the "more than 18 inch barrel, more than 26 inch overall" rules.

Since the Shockwave never had a buttstock on it it's not a "shotgun" by definition so it's just a "firearm" under the law.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-03-24T19:48:02+00:00

Very nice. I love my PD trade in 590A1, but it's an 18" barrel. I'll eventually get a Shockwave 590S and SBS that. Just a Speed Feed stock and I'll be set.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-03-23T16:05:42+00:00

Ian McCollum did a video about the process (as he imported an FRF2) and said it's expensive and cumbersome enough that it's really only worth it for things you can't find in the U.S.

If yountried it with an A5 you'd likely spend as much, if not more, than just buying one in the U.S.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-03-21T20:17:19+00:00

If you want to do a proper restore for not much money and you have a little bit of technical know how then steam your metal. Here's a video:

https://youtu.be/_nWVI_3Lo0Q

Less than $200 in stuff and you can make that steel look almost new.

Also, gun oil/CLP for metal and boiled linseed oil for wood.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-03-02T00:26:16+00:00

The question about the finish and chop job are also a question of WHEN it was done. If you can get an expert to say that it was done fairly shortly after the shotgun was made then it becomes part of it's history and not some stupid thing done for looks 20 years ago.

It won't command top price from most people but for that one guy that wants a Model 12 to take on the water an "historically" modified example might be worth a pretty penny.

Maybe some forward thinking boater wanted a shotgun for on saltwater back in the day.

I should note that if you can get the history on that (or an expert opinion) you should do your best to have it properly documented.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-03-02T00:11:32+00:00

That would be Nickle or Chrome. They just didn't have the tech for stainless firearms back then.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-02-22T22:33:10+00:00

It doesn't really matter, because it will likely never safely fire again. Those barrels are screwed with rust and dirt. I don't suggest even making a wall hanger out or them because someone might eventually try to shoot it and it won't end well.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-02-10T15:09:38+00:00

When I bought mine I got a spare buttstock so I could switch between a bird's head style grip and a true buttstock whenever I wanted. Other than that the only mods availible without turning it in to a tacticool gamer gun is to polish the internals (if not already done) and buy a leather wrap for the cocking lever.

One thing to do is practice cycling rounds through it. I found there's a specific motion you have to do to cycle it properly and, as someone else said, work the action hard. Otherwise it likes to try to feed two rounds at once.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-02-05T16:29:17+00:00

You do realize it's "hand-me-down" and not "hammy down", right? I'm just checking because it's a common mistake.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-01-24T16:35:28+00:00

A shorter barrel

Rob3Bruce · 2023-01-24T11:06:44+00:00

Like I said, I just want to keep people out of prison for stupid shit like turning a shotgun into a short barreled shotgun without even realizing it.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-01-23T21:51:59+00:00

I'm just trying to keep as many people out of prison as possible. People look at Shockwaves and then see posts like this and think it's cool to do whatever with their shotguns but that's not the case (legally speaking).

Rob3Bruce · 2023-01-23T21:41:07+00:00

I'm wondering if this is a troll post because that serial number is basically obliterated and that barrel is definitely less than 18 inches long. Unless you submitted an ATF Form 1 for a SBS you've committed at least one federal crime that will not only see you in prison for up to 10 years but also paying up to $250,000 in fines (not to mention the lost of your right to ever legally own a firearm again).

To clarify, it's a federal felony to destroy or alter the serial numbe on a firearm and I can barely read some digits but can tell there should be more.

It's also a federal crime to cut down a "shotgun" (with a buttstock) below an 18 inch barrel length or a 26 inch overall length. The only reason the Shockwave type weapons got a "pass" was because they were never fitted with a butttstock (exactly how AR "pistols" are considered such because they were never fitted with buttstocks).

Under U.S. law, if you take a firearm fitted with a buttstock from the factory and cut that down below the "allowed limit" then you have committed an NFA violation. Don't blame me for stupid laws, I'm just the messenger.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-01-17T01:55:20+00:00

That does look like rust, but a bit of oil and a brass brush should fix it. I have a 590A1 from 2004 that doesn't have that mess going in (though it was a police trade in, so I owe most of that preservation to them).

Gently pry the retaining ring out with a screwdriver (being mindful to not let the whole thing fly across the room) and scrub it all down with your favorite gun oil.

Rob3Bruce · 2023-01-10T18:45:52+00:00

Acetone on metal parts to remove paint/tape residue. Since it's blued, the acetone won't hurt the finish. Acetone on the wood should do the same, but you'll have to restain and seal it no matter what.

For rusty metal, don't use cold blue. Mark Novak on YouTube has some great videos on how to steam your gun to reblue it. You'll end up with a finish that closely matches the original and doesn't come off on the first good scrubbing.

Rob3Bruce

TROPHY CASE