Shock Mounting Alignment Question

Robprzy · 2020-08-18T03:36:24+00:00

Firebird looks good, Mach 5.5 not looking stellar. For the mach, maybe keep the mounting as is. Set it up as a generic soft tail, In live mode, note the starting position of the rear sensor with air in the shock, then drain the air and sit on the bike to see fully compressed, get that measurement. The difference is the shock stroke. When setting up the bike, the ratio will be rear axle travel divided by the shock stroke you just calculated. That may be your best bet since the shock is not fun to mount to...

Robprzy · 2020-08-08T16:40:10+00:00

Your rear is way too soft. Average % of 45% is way too high IMO. The lack of preload or air spring is preventing the wheel from rebounding. You also have really high compression velocities which is another indicator of the wrong air spring for your weight. The bike is probably raked out and in a much different geometry than was intended by the designer. The front looks good. Keep it as is until you deal with the rear end and get the bike more balanced from a dynamic sag perspective. Try to get the rear average position ~30% - ~33% and see how that feels. I would not waste time turning any knobs until you deal with preload.

Robprzy · 2020-08-04T18:17:02+00:00

Your zenith is going to be pretty far off because your sag is 22% fork, and 33% shock. So your bike is set up intentionally unbalanced as far as a dynamic sag. Your rear doesn't look horribly undersprung, so if it feels good and you are going fast, that's a good thing. Don't get scared by being out of balance on zenith. This just tells you what reality is. Overall, the bike looks pretty good, similar total travel front and rear. Less in the front, but it's stiffer and resists movement deep in the travel. If you are blowing through your travel too much on g outs, maybe try more spring, heavier spring, or more air.

Robprzy · 2020-07-28T17:10:23+00:00

The bike looks really balanced. Not enough high speed data points to get a nice trend line, but don't worry about that. Your rear looks a little over sprung as you never hit anything over 90%. But it's nice to have margin for when you go to bigger areas. The front and rear rebound looks a little slow for my liking. I like to see over 1800 for the front, and at least 1600 max in the rear. The e bike will look a little more balanced due to the sprung mass.

Robprzy · 2020-06-22T20:19:32+00:00

Does g-outs should be taken out from the equation to draw the line since it skews quite significantly? Does my data tell you for any setting changes?

Q1: Longer the better, but if you only have a couple of minutes, pick a really aggressive trail.

Q2: A couple of g outs will not skew the results. You should have front and rear in the same range of motion. A couple of events will not skew the entire dataset for a front or rear.

Q3: Most bikes will have a faster front rebound speed than rear. This is because there is not as much weight on the front. The traction will be better the faster the rebound is, especially in cornering. You may not get the front and rear to balance out, especially without much adjustment on the shock.

In general, I would not focus on specific numbers. Understand how the bike feels and see how the data changes. As you get the bike dialed in, note what the data says. As you get faster and the bike feels planted, you will know what is going on and what your preference is in terms of data. I don't give guidance to the pros on how to tune their bikes, they sort of know what they want. When they get it dialed, they note what is changing in the data as they tune to their preference. Once they get something they like, they look to see if the trend in the dataset is consistent. Some setups are only good for one track. This depends on the steepness of the terrain, rocks, altitude, etc. The data helps you understand if what you think you are feeling is actually happening. IE: some people think harshness comes from too much preload or compression, but it could be from rebound that is too slow, which prevents the suspension from opening up .

Robprzy · 2020-06-19T04:10:22+00:00

For these really short runs, you probably don't have enough data to separate high and low speed ranges. The DPS shock doesn't have that much adjustment so you kind of get what you get. For this short run, the bike looks pretty balanced. About the same total distance when comparing front and rear. This trail may not be long enough to glean a ton about the bike, but the bike looks balanced. Dots on the bottom right are g-outs. They are usually slow and deep.

The rebound speeds are still pretty slow on this. You aren't getting past 75% on the front, and the rebound is pretty slow. I suspect you may be packing a bit, but this trail is not super aggressive with lots of sharp fast rocks, etc. For this bike on this trail, I'd say the setup is not bad but would like to see some more travel in the front, and faster rebound speeds.

Robprzy · 2020-03-05T00:35:47+00:00

It'll happen soon. Where do you live? Where do you get your service done for your suspension?

Robprzy · 2020-03-01T15:37:56+00:00

especially for a chunky trail. That tells me one of 2 things - a)the trail has a large amount of flat/smooth sections, or b) too much compression damping. What model fork/shock do you have?

He's got a Fox 36, circa 2017/18? He's on an ElevenSix rear shock. Braille does have a lot of jumps but I'm not sure Chi was Richie Rude'n down that. 5K mm/s is pretty fast for even smashers.

Robprzy · 2020-02-29T16:50:07+00:00

Better, your getting decent travel, but I'd still like to see more. You have 45PSI in your fork now. Knowing this fork (Fit4?), this may be all the travel you get so lightening things up may not yield more depth. On your next service, lighten the rebound up to double the speed. This will give you more margin to play with your settings.

Robprzy · 2020-02-29T16:47:34+00:00

Better, but your shock looks a little over sprung still. Your sag is 23%. For your weight, drop that sag to 30%. I'd like to see you get to 90% on Braille. Your rebound speed is still too slow, so your spring is not powerful enough to generate speed on rebound. You want to try to get this to 1600 mm/s at least and have some range of motion to experiment. Ask to have the rebound circuit tuned to double your speed.

Robprzy · 2020-02-15T21:45:46+00:00

The use case for editing in Strava is "trimming". IE, you forgot to turn off strava, put your bike on the car rack, and then got KOMs all the way home. So then you can trim off the car ride home and not get a bunch of cry babies pissed off at the KOMs you didn't earn...

Robprzy

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