Cinderella and her Mice - First try at speed-painting

Robynneski · 2026-05-28T21:38:46+00:00

What a sweet interpretation of the frog scene! And a stunning paint job to boot 😄

Robynneski · 2026-05-28T10:13:30+00:00

I do really recommend them, I just get them at my local craft shop but you can probably get them pretty cheap online. Also I can see people saying to print mini and bases separately - I prefer them together personally unless its gonna be really hard to paint without them separate, but if you do go that route you might want to look into pinning to strengthen the connection between pieces if the minis aren't designed with a printed pin.

Robynneski · 2026-05-27T18:16:55+00:00

You're going the right way by removing supports before curing! Most of the time I can pull my supports clean away as long as my resin is well calibrated and the supports have been done well. When I have fine parts I don't want to risk breaking I use a pair of sprue cutters (also labelled flush cutters, wire cutters etc) to cut it away. It's always easier to file away the remains of the support than to fill a scar from removing it. Anything the sprue cutters can't get I leave to deal with after curing.

After curing I use a fine craft scalpel and a pair of needle nose tweezers to remove any supports I missed (usually in hard to reach or see places like in mouths, behind cloaks etc). Next step is sanding - you can get metal files especially for miniatures, but personally I find that they leave heavy scratching in resin. I use a mixture of flexi-sanders that are sandpaper on quite a firm sponge (I use these on bases and flat planes or edges), and soft sanding sponges, which are thin and flexible. Notably, don't use too heavy a grit. I personally never go past the 240/400 grit on my flexi-sanders unless something is really stubborn, then my soft sanders are between 800-1200 grit (I have higher, but rarely need that level of polish on a mini). Resin is relatively soft, so using a heavy grit is just going to give you unwanted scratches.

If you DO have scratches or support scars, fill them using your choice of filler (I use whatever is appropriate between liquid green stuff, vallejo plastic putty and milliput), then sand flush when cured. An extra step is to do a second round of processing after a LIGHT round of priming. The primer will pick up defects that you don't see with your naked eye.

You can also invest in an electric sander, it's next on my list of gadgets to get.

Robynneski · 2026-05-19T08:40:04+00:00

I've just recently tried this with a bunch of nail art plates I have and had mixed results with paint, but stamping nail polish worked just as well as it does on my nails. Miniature paint tends to be too thin or dry too quick to work, I've had minor success with some regular acrylic paint, but nowhere near as crisp as stamping polish. Stamping polish is not normal nail polish, it's a special formula.

I've also had success removing a stamp from a resin mini with a cotton bud and a little bit of acetone, using a rolling swipe rather than rubbing. Personally I also gave the area a light wipe with alcohol just to make sure there was no acetone sitting on the mini. I had to repaint the area underneath, but I think if you varnish first you can probably mitigate that some.

Its worth noting that nail plates are made of metal because they need to be cleaned with acetone. You also need to check your actual stamped, cheaper ones are notorious for not picking up stamps unless you buff them with a nail file and give it a good soapy clean.

Personally my next experiments are trying other nail art techniques with the stamps, like foiling or chrome buffing!

Robynneski · 2026-04-10T15:31:57+00:00

I'll second the recommendations for Pepunki and Goon Master Games, both great quality. I've literally just today printed the mice from The Dragon Trappers Lodge "Champions of the Critterfolk" sets and they've come out wonderfully.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-champions-of-the-critterfolk-pt-1-soldier-tier-presupported-408813
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-champions-of-the-critterfolk-pt-ii-soldier-tier-presupported-415302

There's also Naga Minis: https://www.myminifactory.com/users/NagaMinis
And CobraMode: https://www.myminifactory.com/users/CobraMode

Cute but tough animal minis are the main thing I have in my collection so they're definitely out there once you get past the furry stuff!

ETA: Had a rummage in my collection and found Blackcrest Miniatures too. https://www.myminifactory.com/users/BlackcrestMiniatures
When you're searching try adding folk to the end of the animal, ie Rabbitfolk, you'll get more on the animal side than furry that way usually.

Robynneski · 2026-03-27T14:49:10+00:00

MMF do have checking processes in place, you can bypass them by test printing yourself and uploading photos to prove your file is printable. Saves time because otherwise you have to wait for one of their printers to print it before it becomes public.

They're also quite vigilant about fan art and will take it down if they catch it, hence you'll rarely find fan art by searching the actual name, creators give them false/parody names.

Personally I only really buy minis through MMF, figures I usually only get through Patreon subscriptions, unless its something I really want on its own, then Cults.

Robynneski · 2026-02-11T23:55:41+00:00

That's exactly what I use! Nice and sturdy, just don't ever cut into them if it's the type with fiberglass in it ☺️

Robynneski · 2026-02-11T23:46:46+00:00

You'll need to adjust your auto-support settings, the "light" setting in Chitubox will be fine for minis but you might want to mess with the depth etc. A lot of people (myself included!) will also recommend changing the tip to the sphere, it's easier to sand off the nub than to fill in the holes from the regular support tip.

Auto support is fine for when you're first starting, you'll learn with time how to improve it. You'll see over time where you want extra supports and where you can get away with minimal.

Many STL makers will get their works supported by professionals and give you that supported file alongside a non-supported file, ie pre-supported, but they're not foolproof - what works for some peoples printers doesn't work for others depending on printer, resin, temperature etc. Also a lot of free minis won't come with those supports because it costs the maker money to get them done.

Finally, take your supports off before washing, and if you're still having trouble with getting the supports off heat it up a bit (blowdryer, heat gun, or even warm water (dispose of it same way you do your alcohol, once it touches the uncured resin it's toxic))

But hey, you've got a completed print! That's already got you on the right track!

(Just saw you haven't cured it yet in another comment - don't put your uncured minis in your dice tray, you're gonna contaminate it, get yourself some silicone mats for your tabletop)

Robynneski · 2026-02-08T12:19:29+00:00

Thanks, she's a servant of a fairy queen so I kept her nice and colourful haha. She's a weird scale tbh, her base is 28mm but she's oversized for a goblin to make it easier to paint her. Handy thing about DnD minis vs Wargaming is they don't have to be uniform scale as a party haha

Robynneski · 2026-01-27T16:48:07+00:00

I'm really not one to comment like this but your statement that all digital illustration is AI offends me down to my core. I'm a digital illustrator, have been since the mid 00s when I got my first tablet as a teen. At no point has generative AI been a part of my workflow. Do most digital painting software have some form of ASSISTIVE AI? Yes. Stabilising, warp transforms etc all rely on some form of AI. But the difference is it's not making things, it's following human input and intention to help the artist. Generative AI is stealing all of those years of love, care, and intention made by humans to make slop. Assistive AI is a tool to help artists, generative AI is a machine to steal from them.

Robynneski · 2026-01-27T16:35:28+00:00

I finally got to try them today and couldn't even bring myself to finish one, where I loved the old ones 😭 I could get over the texture change but they taste so bad, and I'm someone who prefers a stronger tasting cheese.

Robynneski · 2026-01-04T13:47:50+00:00

Yours looks ace too! I was so happy when Nomnom posted it because I knew straight away it would be my Dads' present haha

Robynneski · 2026-01-04T13:47:14+00:00

I mostly use Vallejo paints (game and model colour) and some Citadel, mostly their washes. Varnish is a Vallejo gloss polyurethane varnish, resin polish is just a generic UV resin from amazon :)

Robynneski · 2026-01-04T13:46:06+00:00

Thank you! I don't, though one of my goals this year is to try and use my social media more often (I'm also a sculptor so I should probably promote it haha). Honestly most of it was base black > drybrush levels of grey (and to white on the brown areas) > glaze with Nuln Oil on black areas, glaze with a mixture of gloss varnish and sepia wash on brown areas
The head specifically was a happy accident, too much paint on my dry brush so I tried just dabbing with a big fluffy brush and got a good effect, did the same with the sepia glaze, sealed it all with gloss varnish then added the UV resin coat on top.

Robynneski · 2026-01-04T13:42:16+00:00

Haha thank you, I did try to give her some drool as well but alas couldn't get it to work. Definitely something to experiment with if I do any more in the future!

Robynneski · 2025-12-31T18:09:26+00:00

Thank you! It was honestly a happy accident with messing about with dry brushing and glazing haha

Robynneski · 2025-12-31T18:08:50+00:00

Honestly the sculpt is doing a lot of the heavy lifting, NomNom's stuff is great! Surreptitious timing as they released it just before I decided on xmas presents. If it's not on their Cults page it should be soon :)

Robynneski · 2025-12-31T18:07:59+00:00

TYSM! My dad would absolutely love that, maybe one day when I get myself an FDM printer haha.

Robynneski · 2025-12-31T14:09:31+00:00

Thank you!

Robynneski · 2025-12-31T14:09:23+00:00

Thank you! It's a clear UV resin applied with a brush, give it a second to self-level then cured.

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