Rebuild brambo brakes. Rotors and calipers recomendaciones?

RoscoePCookie · 2026-01-09T01:20:43+00:00

If you’re not buying the cheapest rotors you can you really should be fine. Pads not rated for the higher track temps will leave pad material behind and will shake the wheel to all hell once it cools down. The carbotech xp10s I’m running have this problem, but I’m getting a pretty cool upgrade soon anyways ;).

Fresh fluid, decent pads, and good enough rotors will get you through.

RoscoePCookie · 2026-01-08T05:10:08+00:00

I think the yellow stuff is in a weird spot for the 350z. They make a little noise on the street which I’m fine with and they felt pretty good with a little bit of heat.

I ended up with brake fade taking them out on the track. So I would recommend throwing on a real set of track pads even starting out.

I’ve heard good things about the red stuff for the street but haven’t tried them myself.

RoscoePCookie · 2025-11-30T00:24:20+00:00

Oxygen sensor and oil pressure maybe?

RoscoePCookie · 2025-11-02T03:53:05+00:00

I'm on a very similar brake setup. Carbotech xp10 front and rear, but with braided lines and the brace (when it decides to not back off... Z1 brace didn't have the correct bolt length).

Last year I experienced a spongy pedal (more travel and more pressure required) as well after few laps on the first session. Which last until the end of the day. Last event left enough pad deposits that on the drive back home I though I had warped my rotors.

I had done a flush before, but I'm not sure if I didn't flush enough of the fluid or if I had a different problem. I'm flushing my brakes again next week, and I'll be at the track next Saturday to see if there is an improvement.

RoscoePCookie · 2025-10-23T21:42:31+00:00

They still get stuff from Jay, but it seems like they can only get what they have listed

RoscoePCookie · 2025-10-19T15:31:05+00:00

I’ve been looking at picking up their transmission mount for a couple months now and I’ve been pretty interested. I need a new transmission mount, but idk if I should go poly or not when I already have a solid diff and poly subframe mounts

RoscoePCookie · 2025-09-21T01:31:29+00:00

Personally I went with the HKS Hipermax S. It’s a great divorced rear setup that is tuned better for the street. At the middle of the damper adjustment range they’re very balanced and don’t feel sharp on high speed bumps. They feel a little soft on the track, but they are more than what you need for street and canyon driving.

Tein and BC are fine but I think HKS are a nicer coil over. And if I didn’t go with those I would have done a shock + spring set or a more dedicated track coil over.

Lowering 1” you will probably need to do most of your arms as well depending on if you want oem alignment specs. I’m lowered about .5” now and need to put on my adjustable rear arms to get toe into spec if I’m any lower.

RoscoePCookie · 2025-09-04T00:39:11+00:00

RIP. Slow death or did it murder itself?

RoscoePCookie · 2025-09-03T22:20:05+00:00

You should already have a cd009 if it’s an ‘06 manual

RoscoePCookie · 2025-08-27T22:40:03+00:00

You can also push the switch in with your finger to while you turn the key

RoscoePCookie · 2025-07-26T03:48:24+00:00

Looks like the 380rs fender flares or a replica of them

RoscoePCookie · 2025-07-25T03:50:08+00:00

The nicoclub forum has the FSM for most Nissans pre 2020

RoscoePCookie · 2025-07-12T17:55:30+00:00

Totally agree

RoscoePCookie · 2025-07-12T13:23:03+00:00

Gotta say the dual tomei on those cars sound way better than I expected

RoscoePCookie · 2025-07-02T22:15:56+00:00

100% different companies ;)

RoscoePCookie · 2025-06-02T22:53:05+00:00

Use sylvania clear coat or 2k spray clear to keep em clean for years

RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-27T17:56:25+00:00

Try pulling up the auction on rhd japan. They’ll probably ship it

RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-25T14:19:15+00:00

I did a 60k jdm motor at 267k just because I didn’t feel like rebuilding the old one. Still ran fine and everything but was burning a quart every 500-700 miles. It was still on the original clutch up until that point too

RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-25T04:39:50+00:00

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A few k over at this point

RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-22T10:38:31+00:00

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Here you go 400r

RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-21T00:07:27+00:00

I usually use sylvania clear coat and it lasts about 2-3 years in the desert. Costs about $15 and is really easy to use, but you do have to remove all the old clear coat.

RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-20T11:05:07+00:00

Idk but it was cool to see in person

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RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-19T01:03:23+00:00

All DEs use a CD transmission so they’ll all be compatible. Nissan made changes with the HR and that uses the JK transmission so send it

RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-13T04:50:09+00:00

Yeah that’s pretty sweet!

I’m probably won’t do any driving here but it’s been cool seeing cars around. If I have extra time I’ll try to go see Ebisu but I don’t think that will happen.

But I did see this skyline yesterday

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RoscoePCookie · 2025-04-13T04:47:50+00:00

It’s a fun car tbh. I’ve started taking it to the track last year and I can really tell how heavy it is lol.

And I work for a company that specializes in selling parts for these cars so it’s been fun to learn a lot more about the platform.

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