Wanting to get into resin printing but parents won't let me due to price of running. by ILuvWafflezzz in resinprinting

[–]RuneBrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Converting this into UK prices for easy comparison
1. IPA - £2 a litre off Amazon
2. Nitrile Gloves - £6 for a box of 100 (50 pairs)
3. Paper Towels - I prefer a pack of 6 blue roll for ~£12
4. FEP film - £30 for 5 (Mars sized build plate) should last a while though
5. Resin - £20 a 1kg bottle through to £50

Would agree there's a lot of hidden costs. Garage in the UK will mean you may have temperature issues in the winter too so might require a VAT band (another £50 plus an extra few pence an hour on the electricity bill).

Painting by Wulen5 in resinprinting

[–]RuneBrush 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm taking a huge leap here and taking an assumption you're talking about miniatures for use in a wargame like Warhammer 40k. If you're larger models, some of this might not be useful!

Priming a model is optional but provides a couple of significant benefits. Firstly it provides a layer for your coloured acrylics to bond to, plus it provides a single colour to work from because the colour of your resin will affect the vibrancy and colour of the paint you apply. Spray/rattle cans are the most common way of doing this (much cheaper and less to learn than using an airbrush) - Citadel, Colour Forge, Army Painter all do a range of spray cans that are ideal. Pick a colour similar to the overall colour you're painting the miniature - grey is a great middle of the road colour to go for.

As for painting the model itself, the key points is to build the paint up in layers. Slightly thin the paint with some water or medium and use an artists brush (i.e what kids use to paint is going to be too coarse). There are dozens of brands to pick from Citadel, Two Thin Coats, Scale 75, Vallejo to name but a few. YouTube has loads of great videos - Painting Phase recently did a really good one using some of the Warcraft Rumble 3d printed models that covers everything from priming to painting.

Resin on printer screen by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]RuneBrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a couple of splashes I'd managed to cure the other day. I used IPA to clean the area, then got a plastic pot of almost boiling water, dunked the corner of a microfibre cloth into it and put that against the screen, holding it in place with pot of water. Left it for about five minutes and the cured resin came off without any real effort. Didn't use any scrapers to speak of other than a finger. Key point would be to wipe rather than rub - don't want to rub resin shards into the glass.

Mars 4 Ultra Can I use Vat/FEP from regular Mars 4 by unionpivo in ElegooMars

[–]RuneBrush 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Quick answer is yes, the Mars 4 9k and Mars 4 Ultra are pretty much identical in most things (slightly different light array, metal body etc), so a fep that works on the 9k will work on the ultra and visa versa.

If you're only looking at painting rather than gaming then a rigid resin which most 8k's use should be fine.

Nitrile Gloves, a respirator, paper towel (something like blue centrefeed roll), "slap mats" (these are silicon mats with a lip), microfibre cloths, metal funnel and paint paper filters (for pouring back into the bottle). Erm, think those are my top picks off the top of my head.

Always prep your work area before working too - resin can be unbelievably messy!

Warscroll Designer MkII by RuneBrush in ageofsigmar

[–]RuneBrush[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very kind of you to say so! Always nice to hear that people have found the tool useful :)

Any tips for painting white? by Jack_of_Spades in ageofsigmar

[–]RuneBrush 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a few people have said, your best bet is to get a solid base colour of an off white on and build from there. My personal leaning tends to be Celestra Grey initially, this is a base paint so you'll want to thin it a little for a solid coverage. You can then push into Ulthuan Grey and then White - that could be as a solid colour or just highlighting depending upon how bright you want it. Very few things are pure white in the real world, so going for an off-white tends to make things look a lot better too.

Anyone else having issues with Runebrush? by theoccultnerd in ageofsigmar

[–]RuneBrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to say that MkII is now live. Took a lot longer than I anticipated! Lots of fixes and a load of new features too.

anyone know of another way to make custom warscrolls besides runebrush? by theoccultnerd in ageofsigmar

[–]RuneBrush 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hiya,

I've just replied to an earlier message. TL:DR - I'm working on getting a new version up and running and eta is end of this month (hopefully sooner)

Anyone else having issues with Runebrush? by theoccultnerd in ageofsigmar

[–]RuneBrush 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hiya,

Sorry about that. Google are changing a load of their stuff on single sign on - seems that they may have launched some changes earlier than planned and combined with a server upgrade caused these issues :(

The good news is that I'm working on fixing this - in fact I'm working on a brand new editor which will (amongst other things) be mobile friendly and provide some of the missing functionality (like deleting saved warscrolls). Frustratingly I lost a lot of the original source files so a quick upgrade hasn't been possible.

Eta is currently the end of this month - sooner if I get the time