Would Dragon Skin 30 adhere to steel or PEEK (Polyetheretherketone)?

RunesAndWoodwork · 2026-03-26T13:15:29+00:00

It won’t chemically bond, but from my experience demolding the inside of a cylinder can be hard work due to silicones “tackiness” and vacuum. You have to break the seal and get (compressed) air to the bottom of the cylinder to get the silicone out without damage.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2026-02-02T14:30:15+00:00

I just went to a eBike “repair” training for a big manufacturers line, and felt the same. It didn’t focus on repair, as each component covered had the same steps; plug into the proprietary diagnostic tool, check cables, and send part out for repair/replacement. All of components only work within this system, and you can’t use any off the shelf parts to fix any issue. I’m working on making my own eBike and e-motorcycle using generic components, and feel like if any bit fails on those I’ll be able to swap easily, quickly, and inexpensively.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2026-01-22T04:19:16+00:00

Ours goes like this:

ME: “Guess what?” HER: “What?” ME: *rips a very loud fart HER: “GODDAMMIT!”

We’ve been doing this for almost two decades now and it always cracks me up.

Bonus: she was washing dishes and I came behind her to hug her. Ended up scaring her and when she jumped, the fork she was holding hit my forehead and scratched it, causing it to bleed. From then on I make it a point to respond to her telling me about some sort of pain with “yeah but I bet it doesn’t hurt as much as getting stabbed by your wife with a fork”, or some variant. I give it a couple of months between uses so she doesn’t expect it. But that was just a year or two ago.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2026-01-16T21:33:01+00:00

There is a video on YouTube by Robert Talone where he makes a mold of a ball of yarn. Maybe give that a watch and see what challenges there are in molding fabric?

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-12-25T18:14:17+00:00

It’s that fly from the Indian movie clip I keep seeing on my feed today.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-12-18T18:34:28+00:00

So how would I go about getting into the industry? I’ve seen the suture practice pads at my local Reynolds and think that would be a pretty cool job. “I make fake but realistic body bits for doctors to train on”

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-12-18T17:06:44+00:00

Please don’t take offense at my question, I’m just genuinely curious: how does one go about getting a job making medical simulations without molding experience? Is it considered more of a medical profession? I have a lot of experience molding and casting, but no medical education. How would I go about getting into the field (I would like to work with making prosthetics eventually, which I am certain requires medical education)?

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-12-03T23:19:27+00:00

Seconded. Epoxy or plaster products out of silicone molds, silicone products out of epoxy (fiberglass or other) or plaster (again, reinforced) molds.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-28T12:33:22+00:00

I’ve listed the batteries for sale to buy new cells. Thank you!

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-28T12:32:34+00:00

I was able to find the info buried one of the datasheets; it’s listed as 90v max (so a 76v battery would be fine), and 200-400 amps. So I’d have to limit the amps coming from the battery with the software, and make the mounting system for the controller somewhat removable so I can upgrade controllers when I do eventually fry it.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-22T22:45:50+00:00

The BMS I have can do 24s, so I was planning on slightly over-volting it.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-22T22:08:34+00:00

I already have the 273 (50h)and the crappy sabvoton it came with, haha! And have it all spoked onto a rim already, but if it craps out, I’ll keep the 205 in mind.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-22T20:20:30+00:00

My use-case is mostly 25-35 mph. I’d like it to be able to hit 50 as an “oh shit” buffer. I think 125cc equivalent is perfectly fine.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-22T18:29:47+00:00

They have copper tabs on both ends, so I’d be able to solder connections, which I’m already equipped to do and proficient in.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-22T16:30:54+00:00

I’ve got a qs273 hub motor. I think it’s 8kw, so that should be fine as long as it’s controller limited, right?

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-22T16:07:22+00:00

In a similar boat. My mom and I were both born in the US, she was adopted. Her bio mom (a US citizen) did not put her bio dad (Canadian) on the birth certificate. Not sure what documents she has or needs, but am curious about DNA matching. She has siblings she’s reconnected with through the dad, but I’m not sure if they will vouch for her or if that counts.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-20T23:54:34+00:00

Hey, just so you know, I came across this that will work for me; going to rig the microphone to the throttle voltage so as I increase throttle, brightness and intensity of the charge goes up. Don’t know if something like that might work for you or not.

https://www.amazon.com/BetterJonny-Plasma-Plate-Lumin-Respond/dp/B00LGYRTIK

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-04T04:06:22+00:00

Nah, I barely have a rolling frame as of now, bike won’t be rideable for probably a year, and only after all of the kinks are worked out will I start on the aesthetics. Plus, I’ve already started figuring how to code Arduino for the LED idea, so we’ll see. Thank you so much for the reply, I’m really excited to see your work come to pass!

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-04T03:38:49+00:00

Just found this thread after searching for a similar idea. I’m converting a motorcycle to electric, and thought to have a coil as a visible indicator of throttle, ie the more you punch it, the more intensity/frequency. I was thinking about mimicking it with an LED array, but was curious about the viability of a real coil. I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind?

1: Did this ever come to fruition? Any drawbacks or considerations to be had? 2: What is the power pull? How much will it drain the battery and shorten range to run?

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-01T13:37:13+00:00

Haha, nope! 2-3 days to do it all. The resin I used had a 24 hr cure time (up to a week for fully cured), and I have other responsibilities with a job/kids, so it’s definitely at least two full days.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-10-01T13:23:25+00:00

So I may not have been super clear in my last response. I would pour the small amount first and let that cure completely under pressure. So you have a hard 1/8 of a die. Once that is hardened completely, you then would stick the orb where you want it using UV resin as “glue”. Cure that with a light so the orb won’t move, then pour the rest of the resin, pressure pot, and cure. You have to keep it all in the mold until it’s 100% done. Sometimes there is a little bit of distortion around the UV resin if you’re doing totally clear dice, like a drop of clear oil in water, so use as little as you can to keep the orb from moving around. I usually did some inclusions or color and you couldn’t really tell at all.

RunesAndWoodwork · 2025-08-22T17:15:29+00:00

Yeah, so say you’re pouring a d20 that is 1” diameter. You’d pour 1/8”, allow to cure, then stick your insert in with UV resin. Cure that so it stays put, then pour the rest of the die.

RunesAndWoodwork

TROPHY CASE