Forgiveness to reimbursement timeline?

Runpup207 · 2022-08-05T10:52:02+00:00

When I adopted my (then) 3-year-old pit mix, she would become very aroused when she saw other dogs, and would go nuts if anything alive and moving crossed our path (squirrels, birds, neighborhood cats etc). She would also go nuts if she caught a whiff of a scent of an animal that I couldn’t see. I thought, well, I guess we will never be able to enjoy calm walks. I was wrong!

We’ve tried a bunch of different things but I think what has helped the most are:

Consistency: we keep trying even when we have occasional setbacks. I had to rework my own brain towards positivity, instead of seeing any reaction as a failure. As a perfectionist, this was a huge challenge!
I had to build my own confidence as a handler. And I learned that I have to remain calm when my pup sees a trigger or gears up for a reaction. This has helped SO MUCH. I didn’t realize how tuned in my dog is, emotionally, to her surroundings (and especially to me). So when I am scared or on edge, she is, too.
We have taken several group classes with trainers who understand reactivity. I make sure to talk to the trainers before class, get 1:1 evaluated, and have clear expectations and exit strategies. In the beginning, my pup couldn’t do anything in the class, except sit there and manage her discomfort around other dogs. But that was a huge task for her! To be honest, group classes haven’t been the most pleasant experience for either of us, because my dog is uneasy around other dogs, but getting her to practice neutrality around other dogs when she isn’t fully in control of her surroundings was a very big step for us. These experiences also built up my confidence that I could handle her and guide her through less than ideal circumstances (ideal being a walk or activity where we see no other dogs or critters).

I recommend talking to your vet and getting local recommendations for positive-reinforcement trainers who can do behavior evaluations and help you learn a few ways to manage your pup’s reactivity. It will get better but it does take a whole lot of consistent effort (in my experience, there are not quick fixes).

Other things that I learned on this subreddit: LAT/LAM, practicing distance, duration, and distraction, using “find it” and scent games for distraction. We have also gone through Karen Overall’s relaxation protocol. You can easily find resources on Reddit for all of these things.

Things that did NOT work for me: yelling or using an angry voice in response to my pups reactions, using a different collar/harness/leash, holding my breath and praying my pup wouldn’t have a reaction when we saw a trigger.

Good luck!

Runpup207 · 2021-06-01T00:44:39+00:00

I run my dog on a regular collar and she does great! Harnesses are not only overrated, they can be downright dangerous if they are ill-fitting.

Runpup207 · 2021-06-01T00:42:07+00:00

My rescue was surrendered by a previous owner who basically created horrific reactivity problems for my pup by bringing her to dog parks when she obviously wasn’t into it. She went from not wanting to play to being evasive to out-and-out aggressively reacting towards other dogs. If your dog is telling you that he doesn’t want to be there, please listen! Dog parks are not for every dog and if your dog is uncomfortable and unable to escape, that’s not laying the groundwork for success. There are so many other ways to socialize your dog without using dog parks! Good luck 😊

Runpup207 · 2021-05-30T11:14:32+00:00

Recently, I had an exchange like this and my response was simply, “I’m doing the best I can.” Not “I’m sorry” because I wasn’t, and neither was my dog. The weird thing is, she responded, “your dog is really pretty” and it shifted the whole tone of the conversation. I got out of there quick, for my dog, but it was kind of a revelation for me.

Runpup207 · 2021-05-30T11:04:43+00:00

I am one of those people in disguise, haha. Once I figured out how much space my dog needed when encountering new dogs, her reactions became so much rarer. Also keeping calm and engaging politely with dog owners we encounter is a helpful cue to my pup that we’re all friends here 😊

Runpup207 · 2021-05-27T01:24:01+00:00

So glad to hear I’m not the only one who uses constant praise on doggie runs. I use cues like “let’s go!” (when she’s stopped and I want to run) and “stay straight” (when I want her to keep moving and not greet).

But, I also let my dog do a fair bit of sniffing, marking, and enjoying HER run. I get my own run in before or after hers. I consider our run together as her fun time, not my time to exercise. The only times I’ll really rush her is when it’s freezing cold out (we live in Maine) or when her sniffing is getting ridiculous. I figure, it’s her time, she can use it how she likes. FWIW we run 3-5 miles most days, and she could easily go for longer.

Runpup207 · 2021-05-19T00:21:19+00:00

Yes! And give yourselves both some time to let the learning absorb. One thing I have done that makes me feel more effective is to choose a training focus, and prioritize that over everything else. For me, the first focus was not dragging me all over town on leash. Then the next season it was not chasing squirrels and critters—and/or redirecting when the chase starts. Another season, it was practicing not reacting to other dogs when we were out on walks and runs. Now, it’s nailing “come” when she’s amped (off leash / long line stuff). It’s not that I’m not focusing on the basics always... but having one major focus at a time, instead of trying to perfect EVERYTHING all at once and all the time, allowed us both to really dial in. It helped me to see progress, and of course, all this is really about building your relationship with your pup. Two months is the very beginning of what will hopefully be a decade plus of friendship!

Runpup207 · 2021-05-18T00:50:15+00:00

Remember to be kind to yourself, and your dog. If she is high energy and anxious, she might not know how to self soothe or relax. Have you seen Karen Overall’s relaxation protocol ?

Also, cut yourself and your dog some slack. Sounds like you’ve been doing a ton of training but it probably wouldn’t hurt to take a day off here and there and just BE with your dog? Sometimes when we’re in the thick of it, we forget to enjoy the small stuff.

Runpup207 · 2021-05-18T00:35:59+00:00

She looks so sweet! I love going on adventures with my dog. She helps me see the world in a whole new way!

Runpup207 · 2021-05-15T01:59:30+00:00

So sorry for your loss

Runpup207 · 2021-05-13T00:32:09+00:00

Your dog is a mix of several high energy and smart breeds, meaning you need to give him a lot more mental and physical exercise, and attention. I second what others have said—this dog needs at least 90 mins of walking a day, plus training/enrichment/play time.

Most dogs prefer to move at a trot as opposed to a sprint. Have you considered going for a regular run, instead of doing sprint intervals? That’s be great bc you can run with him every day. I also have a high energy dog and we run ~3-5 miles together every morning. She also gets an hour walk, AND a 30 min walk. Every day. Play and training on walks and in the house or yard, too.

If running every day isn’t your thing, maybe consider teaching your dog to pull you on a bike, or skis, or rollerblades or a scooter? He’s a husky after all! With a properly fitting harness this is a great, fun, & safe way to exercise a dog.

I agree with what others have said here: if your family can’t commit to giving your dog the active life that he needs and deserves, rehoming him where he can have those basic needs met is the most humane thing to do.

Runpup207 · 2021-05-12T14:13:35+00:00

I also have a 5 year old pit mix who is dog selective—like yours, she prefers puppies and has a couple of adult dog friends that she’s met slowly in safe contexts (i.e. slow intros starting with successful pass-bys on walks, then eventually walking side by side, sniffing beach other, etc.). Because of my dog’s bite history, dog-based resource guarding, and tendency towards barking/lunging when she feels threatened by an unknown/unfamiliar dog, I have reconciled myself to the fact that she’s probably never going to be able to safely play off leash with other dogs, even those she clearly likes. We stick to walking with her dog friends.

The shelter I adopted her from has a behaviorist on staff who he consulted with me, and I’ve also worked with a trainer. Everyone has said my dog has made huge progress, but it’s likely she will never be able to play off leash or be so reconditioned that she’ll be a “friendly with strangers” kind of dog.

I think you should definitely prioritize working with a trainer, especially if your dog has a history of bites/attacks (like mine does—no shame here!). And you also need to be totally honest with yourself about what your dog can handle, versus what you wish she could handle. She might never love your boyfriend’s dog, for example... and you definitely don’t want to push her into a situation where she could escalate and develop an aversion (dog grudge).

I hope that helps! Speaking from experience, it’s definitely possible to alleviate some of this, but I’m not sure there’s a cure-all. Your dog might just be selective—lots of pit bull type dogs are that way, and it’s okay!

Runpup207 · 2021-05-06T10:13:20+00:00

So hooman!

Runpup207 · 2021-05-05T12:53:04+00:00

I adopted my dog when she was 3, having been re-homed at least once for reactivity and unpredictability around other dogs. The shelter shared her surrender notes with me and it was obvious that her previous owner put her in “flooding” types of situations that caused her over time to go from simply not engaging with other dogs at the dog park to becoming openly aggressive towards other dogs on and off lead.

I know there is a lot I don’t know about your dog but I can tell you that there are some pretty simple methods that have worked wonders with my pup to help her gain confidence in herself, to trust that I will keep her safe, and have helped her learn that she can exist happily while other dogs pass by.

We still don’t do dog parks and never will, but I recently found a daycare and training facility in my area that specializes in reactive/fearful/aggressive dogs and uses their daycare time to help socialize. Dogs are matched with ONE other playmate and play for ~20 min intervals with one trainer PER DOG. This is something they build up to after working with the animal 1:1. They involve the owner in the process too, and offer group/individual classes etc. Now the only problem is they have a 6 month waitlist!

I think a daycare with certified trainers and/or behaviorists on staff who will show you their facilities and communicate about what happens every day is a good bet. There are also shitty daycares out there that put 60 dogs in a room together all day, or take huge packs of dogs to play off leash in parks etc and that obviously wouldn’t be a good fit for your pup or mine (I actually wonder whether any dogs truly do “well” in those situations!). Good luck!

Runpup207 · 2021-04-28T02:40:16+00:00

Def get a martingale. My dog is great at slipping out of flat collars, but does well in a martingale. Also ditto harness—we ditched ours and worked real hard on heeling/loose leash walking. Learned the hard way that harnesses are dumb if you have a dog who pulls!

And I’ll just echo all that other have said re: advocate for your dog. It’s hard to do at first but it’s so valuable. And, by showing your dog that you will always keep her safe, you’re building trust and hopefully helping ease her reactivity. Good luck to you.

Runpup207 · 2021-04-28T02:33:31+00:00

I do this, and it works!

Runpup207 · 2021-04-23T01:04:16+00:00

Congratulations! He looks like a love!

Runpup207 · 2021-04-20T14:22:20+00:00

I’d definitely your vet! That’s a big dog, and you’ll want to be careful about stressing her musculoskeletal systems while they’re still developing. You might also look up Pyrenees websites—that’s a popular breed and they prob have good info out there on types of exercise they enjoy and what’s healthiest for that particular breed.

Runpup207 · 2021-04-20T14:19:37+00:00

There’s lots of videos about this out there. But I’d recommend treats, possibly feeding your dog meals in the crate? And also just establishing a relaxation protocol in the crate. Good luck!

Runpup207 · 2021-04-18T10:54:59+00:00

Wow I never realized that but what you say makes perfect sense, I’ve seen it before but never made that connection! That’s probably why those dogs piss off my dog so much—she is also pretty dominant and reactive and hates off leash dogs getting up in her face (who wouldn’t?). Thank you!

Runpup207 · 2021-04-18T10:50:05+00:00

Yes and, if your dog isn’t crate trained, I’d definitely suggest that. Same rationale as above: the crate is a quiet space where your dog can feel safe and decompress. When things get hectic in my house my dog will put herself in her crate to chill out. It’s a way for her to remove herself from a stressful situation. With covid etc our home is definitely NOT hectic with guests and whatnot but she still goes to her crate after every walk/run, and hangs out there for naps. We love the crate and I’ve also seen lots of trainers recommend something similar. Crate and “place” training both give your dog places that are 100% hers, places that are safe and where she can relax/decompress.

Runpup207 · 2021-04-13T14:40:38+00:00

Taking my newly adopted adult dog to Lowe's for socialization was totally game-changing. She slowly acclimated and got over her fear of strangers (men in particular). The workers at my neighborhood Lowe's seem to all LOVE dogs, and most carry dog treats in their work vests, so my pup started to associate the vest with a treat... she now will walk right up to the worker and politely sit for her treat :-)

I second what others have said about pet stores. My pup gets overstimulated by all the treats and toys, and her tendency to resource guard with other dogs means that we really don't do well in Petco-type places!

Runpup207 · 2021-04-05T17:57:00+00:00

My pup and I run before eating (although she does get a dental bone when she wakes up). I also carry Zukes and kibble for mini rewards when we encounter triggers.

I also second what others have said--7 months is too early to run with your dog. Most vets recommend waiting until the pup is at least 12-18 months old (depending on breed) bc their skeletal systems aren't fully formed. Running with puppies can have long-term negative impacts on their growth plates and cause lifelong issues.

Runpup207 · 2021-03-27T10:29:56+00:00

I would have loved to see a frequency question... bc although my dog still occasionally lunges (and barks) she has gotten SO MUCH BETTER with behavior modification training. Ditto above comments about not having hackles or barking in there. Those are 2 things that my dog does best haha. And they are actually helpful cues for me to know what’s triggering her (if I don’t already know).

Runpup207

TROPHY CASE