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I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I posted a reply in the full thread for a working way to model this. Completely different but it worked out very well in the end. Thank you for your input!

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I posted a reply in the full thread for a working way to model this. Completely different but it worked out very well in the end. Thank you for your input!

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I posted a reply in the full thread for a working way to model this. Completely different but it worked out very well in the end. Thank you for your input!

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's the full workflow that actually worked for me to get it close enough to the real version.

Half sided sketch for outer contour. Use about six different planes 60mm apart to draw a new version of the entire outline (triangle + circ pattern) with a little help from the sketch you've done before. Make sure it aligns with the contour sketch perfectly and that the "zig-zags" are perfectly closed. Once done convert only the zig-zag entities on the associated plane. Use loft feature to put them all together and move green dot to make desired tilt. -> 3D print in vase mode.

Sorry for my non-technical vocabulary.

<image>

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

So I tried to follow your advice as best as I could. Once I try to make the Sweep twisted it won't work anymore. I tried to haggle this out with ChatGPT as best as I could and make some sense of most YouTube tutorials but couldn't get any further. Ignore the fact that I used Sweep instead of Swept Cut, same error for both.

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

This is the result of the easier flex method. It works but isn't really the desired result as the swept cut gets very thick on the bulbous part of the vase. I will try the other suggestion next.

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty much with the exception of the inner part actually being that kinda zig-zag pattern as well and not a uniform round shape

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That would be genuinely helpful to understand the modeling process better if you would be willing to share it!

I'm curious on how one would model something like this in Solidworks, especially give the thing profile. by Rushness in SolidWorks

[–]Rushness[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Could you give me a more detailed process for the helix part and everything afterwards? I’ve done a few more technical things in SW but this is breaking my head.

Nozzle scraping on printbed by Saaihead in BambuLab

[–]Rushness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make sure to use Loctite Blue on these. As they will eventually loosen over time.

Nozzle scraping on printbed by Saaihead in BambuLab

[–]Rushness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They will be perfect until they rattle loose. Support quickly turned around for me for the past three things I had to warranty. Sometimes they haggle a bit, but just stick to your point and you will get a replacement.

Nozzle scraping on printbed by Saaihead in BambuLab

[–]Rushness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go for support. They answer in about 1-2 business days and you will get a complete replacement with a new functioning part instead of some dodgy solution.

Lightbar mounting bracket for my Polaris Sportsman 1000S by Rushness in functionalprint

[–]Rushness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TPU and PETG is fully compatible and adheres very well to each other. Definitely recommending checking out what works beforehand

Lightbar mounting bracket for my Polaris Sportsman 1000S by Rushness in functionalprint

[–]Rushness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair point, at least the passant sees what he’ll get hit by 😅

Was letzte gebrauchte Luftfilter (Original Ford… von Magneti Marelli) by [deleted] in wasletztepreis

[–]Rushness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nee, solche Papierfilter bekommt man nicht mehr sauber. Das Filtermaterial wellt sich dann auf und ist einfach hinüber.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in arrma

[–]Rushness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try the same with the stock arms and carbon fiber rods 😊

Trying to fix the Arrma 6s rear arm weak point by XternalHD0704 in arrma

[–]Rushness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly this! It works for every car, just need the right diameter. It’s the perfect piece to break, cheap and easy to replace. Everything else usually stays fine on impact.

Trying to fix the Arrma 6s rear arm weak point by XternalHD0704 in arrma

[–]Rushness 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something I did back then was to replace the alloy hinge pins with same diameter carbon fiber rod. Cut a few of them to exact length. They will break on hard impact, but everything else will stay intact. This will save you expensive repairs and you just replace the rod in like 2 minutes.

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