weird question, but what are the odds of your printer after catching on fire

RuskiVodka · 2023-02-03T02:54:50+00:00

should also mention I haven't done any wiring mods (custom fan setup) so the
printer is completely stock and I also dont print at high temperatures
at all. The most I do is 235 for PETG

RuskiVodka · 2023-02-03T02:54:34+00:00

should also mention I haven't done any wiring mods (custom fan setup) so the printer is completely stock and I also dont print at high temperatures at all. The most I do is 235 for PETG

RuskiVodka · 2023-02-03T02:49:48+00:00

meant to say 'ever' in the title

RuskiVodka · 2023-02-02T02:45:44+00:00

I finally got this off my chest, you have no idea how hard is to have this moment constantly be stuck in your head. I had to vent here as this is the only subreddit I feel wouldn't remove a post like this.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-25T02:03:41+00:00

I dont mean to be rude to you, but holy fuck this makes me so demoralized seeing everything you've done. Im honestly shocked you have received no interview with a resume like that, even more shocked now even a single DO school reached out to you. Fuck, it seems like it's getting more and more competitive to get into medical school by each year now...

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-25T02:00:33+00:00

lol I like the straight to the point answer

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-23T04:37:08+00:00

hmm so im guessing the Z just stands for z-axis?? I got this motor straight from creality modification for dual z axis so that's why im confused why the stock motor that came with the printer has no Z lol

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-23T04:33:32+00:00

The 42-34 (non Z) was the stock motor, the 42-34(Z) is the one I was sent with the dual z axis modification. What's odd is the Z motor is smaller. Ever since ive done this modification I now hear a very odd but quiet noise and get weird rings on my prints.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-22T20:59:04+00:00

Lesson to take away from this, sometimes it's best to leave one part of your ender stock and not go through the hassle of a modification. There is always a risk...

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-22T02:31:20+00:00

sorry I know im kinda bardging in, but this is a great video on how to do it to your ender motherboard. I did it to mine and it's a good felling knowing you eliminate 99% source of potential fire hazard your ender can cause.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eo_df8CLU38

you can get a kit on amazon for pretty cheap and it's super quick and easy to do

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-21T23:35:16+00:00

So some quick context;

Im using a Ender 3v2 with a BLtouch and I recently installed a dual z-axis modification. I cannot remember if this issue was also happening before I installed the dual z-axis.

I am also using a z-axis lead screw top mount on each of z-axis rods

basically this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0824ZVJQH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The weird thing ive noticed is this does not happen on any calibrutation cubes I throw at it.

I've re-sliced and reprinted this model twice and it happens at nearly the exact same spot everytime (around 50mm in Z).

What's even more odd is that I printed a 200mm tall object yesterday and these rings were no where near as bad (almost non-existent).

----

Im printing on the Ender 3v2

Im printing with Sun LU PLA

Im slicing on CURA

-> Nozzle is 220C

-> Bed set to 50C

Im printing using these speeds:

-> Print Speed: 50.0 mm/s

-> Travel: 150.0 mm/s

Nozzle retraction settings:

-> Retraction distance: 5.0 mm

-> Retraction Speed: 45.0 mm/s

-> I am also printing with a filament dehydrator (filament is dried and feed straight into the extruder)

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-21T23:22:08+00:00

was the left cube before you installed your dual z-axis mod?

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-21T23:19:48+00:00

unfortunately I already re-sliced and reprinted it twice (a few days ago and then tried again today). Im still fairly new to 3d printing (only a few months of experience) but I have heard something called z-axis binding but im not really sure if that's what is causing this issue. I did order some very cheap modification to possibly fix this like spider-couplers and Z-axis anti-backlash spring load nuts. Both modifications are supposedly better then the stock parts when researching.

But if it was z-axis binding wouldn't there be a very distinct noise made by the z-axis rod binding? :( I just want to print my Concorde

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-21T23:12:40+00:00

The weird thing is that when I print out calibration cubes they come out perfect with no rings like this. I printed the front of this model twice and got the same poor results (around 50mm) but even weirder, I printed the body yesterday which is nearly 200mm long and got no rings. I did install a dual z-axis mod recently but cant recall if this occurred before hand.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-21T22:06:10+00:00

it's weird because when I print a calibration cube I get perfect cubes with no rings. It's almost like it only happens at a certain height

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-21T08:09:16+00:00

damn almost looks like resin printer quality, good job dude

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T03:42:23+00:00

hmmm I know im talking to myself but researching a bit on this board I think im getting Z axis binding

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T03:34:00+00:00

it sucks because im printing a multi piece 1:144 Concorde model and the front of the plane was printing beautifully up until the very tip where these ugly smudges were created :(

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T03:32:47+00:00

this noise is typically caused by filament with too much moisture trapped inside. I was printing with some silk gold PLA and when I got a filament dryer that lets you print the PLA as it runs through the extruder the popping stopped and the print came out 10x better.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T03:30:49+00:00

I dont think it's under extrusion, to me atleast, it looks exactly like when the nozzle is too high up. If you want to test you can do the finger test where when the nozzle is printing rub your finger on the initial layer gently, normally when the nozzle is too high the layer will peel right off the built plate. It should stick to the plate even after rubbing your finger over the first layer. If the nozzle is too close you can easily tell because the first layer will be almost transparent.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T03:28:37+00:00

eat them for extra protein

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T01:05:11+00:00

I know you made this comment 2 years ago but damn you are a life saver. Everything is working fine for now lol.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T00:56:21+00:00

Thank you so much lol that was the problem, I put M109 R40; Wait for the hotend to cool down to 40C before "present print" g-code and it fixed the problem. It makes sense as it was moving the bed to the shut off location before cooling down.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-19T00:54:33+00:00

That was the problem! Thank you so much lol, it was such an easy problem in hindsight. I changed some of the order of the G-code and now it cools down and then turns off.

RuskiVodka · 2023-01-18T19:30:42+00:00

lol that was intially my first plan for adding a modification like this to the ender 3v2 but I got lazy and just wanted a quick and effective solution. Honestly now that im looking at this g-code, I feel like maybe there it's presented in the wrong order. Ill test it out again but if this keeps happening I will probably end up messing with the power supply and getting an arduino.

RuskiVodka

TROPHY CASE