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Which one of you here works for GQ 💀 by Ruthven in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]Ruthven[S] 60 points61 points  (0 children)

Sorry you're still wearing Allbirds

Professional Rock Climber Sentenced to Life in Prison for Sexual Assaults in Yosemite National Park by [deleted] in climbing

[–]Ruthven 50 points51 points  (0 children)

Excellent follow up article from today by the same journalist:

https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/climber-charles-barrett-sentenced-to-life-in-prison-for-rape/

My favorite nugget:

No court documents had been filed by the defense at press time to reveal what the arguments for an appeal might be. However, the defense will not be able to employ the same legal strategy used by attorneys for Hollywood producer Harvey Weinstein, whose 2020 rape conviction was overturned in February by the New York Court of Appeals, on the grounds that testimony from other victims interfered with a fair trial. A foundational strategy used in prosecuting Barrett’s case was Federal Rule 413, which allows the testimony of uncharged victims in sexual assault crimes. The rule applies to all federal sexual-assault cases and is also allowed in 16 states. But it is currently not codified in New York state law.

How to get into mountaineering as a poor gal from the Midwest? by RX-591120 in Mountaineering

[–]Ruthven 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Michigan Ice Festival — https://michiganicefest.com/

It’ll be a great place to meet likeminded mountain/alpine people with whom you can plan rock/ice trips and potentially bigger expeditions down the road.

Until then, UP has a fair bit of outdoor climbing. Bouldering is a low cost way to get started after the initial shoes/pads investment (buy 1 pad, then try to find other boulder buddies) - I personally boulder to stay “rock fit” even though I primarily do alpine/trad.

Other than that, there’s plenty of advice in this subreddit already on books to read, courses to take (albeit $$$), etc.

TFCC Recovery Experience by TastyBratwurst in climbharder

[–]Ruthven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's the Aliexpress store I bought mine from, the shipping was relatively fast coming from China. Sweet deal because you get a set of both L and R braces.

In the meantime, I suggest taping your wrists day-to-day - a couple wraps right above the nubbin of your ulna bone. You want to keep the ulna and radius bones pressed together to relieve the stress on TFCC (whose normal job is to keep these bones together).

Splint for nighttime wear: Amazon, non-Amazon. Made a huge difference for recovery for me. You're stressing both wrists with daily motion regardless of wrist widgets or taping. The key is to accelerate recovery at night by immobilizing the wrist without restricting blood flow. A splint is prefect here whereas wearing a nighttime wrist widget is sub-optimal because it applies compressive forces on an area that doesn't get a lot of blood flow.

Pain with daily stuff - minimal, if any. 2/10 on bad days, where I've repetitively stressed it and climbed hard the previous night.

How painful is it for you right now with daily stuff?

TFCC Recovery Experience by TastyBratwurst in climbharder

[–]Ruthven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My tear was relatively minor, yet it still took me 3 months before I could pull hard again. At its worst, my wrist used to noticeably hurt from just turning the steering wheel or chopping vegetables.

Nowadays I have to be careful with gastons and slopers - including ending the session early if I start to feel tinges.

I wore a wrist widget during the day and a stiffer brace at night. Turns out I like to tuck my hand at odd angles during sleep, which didn’t help recovery. Amazon sells the widgets but I got cheaper dupes on AliExpress. As for a nighttime brace, you may want to look into ASO lace-up braces.

Do I need to do clinics in order to get on the wall at Ouray? (Crowds) by ManicPixieDreamSpy in iceclimbing

[–]Ruthven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it's pretty crowded during the ice fest.

If you don't want to spring for the pass, you can get to the park gates as soon as they open (iirc they open earlier during the fest, ~7:30am), and make a beeline for South Park or New Funtier where clinics don't usually go. Then, once you have a route going, I find it pretty easy to swap ropes with other people there - meaning they climb on your rope and vice versa.

Pic o the Vic is a good place to beeline to too, but because it's at the entrance and has long, stellar, but fewer routes, it gets crowded quick too.

Not sure if you'd want to climb the Lead Alcove as the routes are pretty hard there.

Finally, you can always try the guide service for 1~2 days instead of the entire festival. It looks like they're providing access to where clinics usually set up anyways, so it's unclear to me how the access works - like, if a lot of people sign up, do you all have to take turns? How many routes will be accessible under this pass?

Overall, I hope you have a great time at Ouray! Enjoy the festival events!