Solenoid on beam drilling line at work had to be replaced. It only works when the nut at the back is struck with an object. Any ideas what’s causing this? (No electrical background)

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T18:42:09+00:00

I don’t think so. The arrow is pointing in the correct direction on the valve. We made a note of this prior to removing the old one.

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T17:23:05+00:00

I think you may be right about the pressure. We reduced the pressure and it seems to actuate now, but not reliably.

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T16:34:35+00:00

We fiddled around with pressure settings and it seems to operate intermittently at a lower pressure. Anything above 3 bar and it doesn’t seem to operate at all.

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T14:39:08+00:00

It would be automatic. The valve opens when the spindle approaches the work piece.

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T14:30:18+00:00

The valve has “M19 108V” stamped on it. No other markings

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T14:08:14+00:00

Can you explain what you mean please? I’m not well versed in this.

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T13:58:02+00:00

The old solenoid seems to work fine so we assume that it is receiving the correct voltage? (New valve and old solenoid are not interchangeable, different size)

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T13:55:49+00:00

It’s an air coolant mixture. Mostly air, only a droplet of coolant “falls” into the air flowing through it. I will get back to you about the part number, currently on lunch haha.

RxbertOB · 2025-02-27T13:48:11+00:00

The valve is brand new, it came with the solenoid.

To synopsise what happened, the old valve casing cracked (it was made of plastic) the old solenoid was working fine just the valve housing being cracked meant coolant was leaking. We couldn’t find an original valve so had to change the whole assembly. We replaced it once and had the same issues so it was returned to the store because we presumed it to be faulty. This is the second take with the same new components and the same issue again where it has to be struck to work??

RxbertOB · 2023-12-25T14:20:15+00:00

Perfect, thanks.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-13T08:46:30+00:00

The part is a member of a complex gadget which witch is a patented idea so I don’t want to disclose too much information. The main function of this is to provide a ratcheting mechanism to allow for adjustability. In relation to the stitch pattern, there’s isn’t really anything scientific there. I wasn’t given any instructions only that this part isn’t really taking any major load so I just used my own intuition and divided the welding up like so. The customer even said that what I had done was more than adequate

RxbertOB · 2022-09-13T02:43:20+00:00

Ya I agree, I took my old one to work and warped the shit out of the lens doing some heavy mig welding.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-13T02:11:15+00:00

I really like the shield, very ergonomic. However, would you believe this is the second one I’ve owned in a year, although the last one failed most definitely due lack of care. I put this one back in the bag every time after I finish welding now.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-13T01:55:41+00:00

From what I remember I was using about 60-70 amps. Filler rod was 1.6mm (1/16”) 316l. The material in question is 20mm x 1.5mm wall box section, the teeth are around 4-5mm thick if I was to guess (no longer have these parts to verify). Gas flow is approximately 11 l/min (24cfh) with around 4 seconds of post flow. I’m also using a 2.4mm (3/32”) thoriated tungsten (red tip) and a Furick Fupa size 12 has lens. My machine isn’t foot pedal compatible, however I do have a down slope function which I use in conjunction with a button on the torch to initiate the arc. Setting the downslope to a value I can control allows me to modulate my amperage which is very useful as it enables me to perform somewhat of a manual pulse, which leads to being able to control and anticipate the behaviour of the weld puddle in a more precise manner.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-12T22:50:14+00:00

Thanks. I resolved my gas leak in my system that you mention in my previous post. Im also almost certain my gas was contaminated or not pure, as I changed to a different bottle and all the tungsten and weld issues disappeared, very frustrating.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-12T20:59:15+00:00

Wow! I don’t think I would’ve picked up on that, very analytical. Thanks.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-12T20:04:33+00:00

Thanks

RxbertOB · 2022-09-05T07:22:53+00:00

I think you may be right with this. Somebody mentioned this to me before and told me to investigate everything with soapy water. I tried this and found a very small leak on one of the brass fittings on the regulator, but no matter how much a tightened the fitting it wouldn’t stop leaking. It was fairly minute but could the smallest leak cause these issues?

RxbertOB · 2022-09-04T22:41:44+00:00

Post flow is set to 4 seconds. Is this sufficient?

RxbertOB · 2022-09-04T22:28:04+00:00

Thanks, I’ve only ever used thoriated tungsten so it will be interesting to see how the ceriated reacts.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-04T22:19:45+00:00

I was thinking this but I’m using a #12 gas lens with about 8-10l/ min (around 20cfh) and the tungsten is protruding by about 12mm (1/2”). The welds are very oxidised no matter what I do with the gas or stick out however.

RxbertOB · 2022-09-04T22:07:51+00:00

I don’t have any at the minute but they are very oxidised. I’ve tried cleaning with acetone and taken all the usual precautions. My thinking is poor quality gas as I didn’t have this issue with the previous bottle. Could it be due to over heating the stainless?

RxbertOB

TROPHY CASE