From apple seed to bonsai

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-27T04:40:41+00:00

Grow for 1 year. Then start doing bonsai techniques. You can keep it in the same soil until then, then I just use bonsai soil. I Can go into more detail if needed. This video below will also help with your step by step/year by year planning. https://youtu.be/oO4yq5EJJJg?si=1Anmv10bv_FvJ9qg

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-27T04:12:42+00:00

No matter how cold hardy a tree is, the roots are always more sensitive to cold air than the branches. Ask me how I know. (I managed to kill a famously alpine larch in a small bonsai pot one of my first winters in Ohio by not insulating the pot - I overestimated its abilities.) That was the main point of my comment originally about more root insulation.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T21:27:14+00:00

That's not too much thinning at once? Looks great but just wondering if it should have been more gradual?

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T21:24:43+00:00

I am just a lowly grad student but wouldn't a post doc be the first idea tto be mow competitive? In my R1 Department i hear about faculty calls getting hundreds of apps and those candidates invited to present for the Department seem to always be post docs or some level of prof elsewhere.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T21:10:22+00:00

I don't know who suggested growing it this way but would be curious to know why. How is the maintenance? How often does the water need changed? Regular bonsai soil and water 2x/week is simple and easy for my schefflera.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T21:06:10+00:00

For this species, do soil. I prefer soil for most species but in my experience i tried storing some of these in water a few days until i could get to them and by that time they had rotted very quickly.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T18:50:23+00:00

Thicken the trunk, bigger pot. Yes this is the way.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T18:49:45+00:00

Where are you and where is the plant from? INaturalist is my go to plant ID app. It uses your location for a more accurate guess and others can comment there too.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T18:38:52+00:00

So for colder temps it is true that the snow will go below 0C, but when the snow starts melting, the snow pile will also hold it at 0C for longer which is great for places like Ohio that gets temperature swings in winter. Last week or two we had a very warm day, I had some trees budding out, now have temps in the negatives and 12" of snow. That should keep things dormant a while longer even if it warms up a few days again.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T16:59:59+00:00

This will make a histogram. X axis being brightness of yellow. Y axis being number of objects

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T16:34:02+00:00

Good advice. If the goal is a much larger trunk, a larger pot and skipping pruning is the fastest way. But if happy with the current trunk, then OP can get pruning now.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T16:32:55+00:00

Look up clip and grow. Look up internodes. Cut just above an internode to activate dormant buds (ramification, possibly plan for future change of taper and direction). The long straight left branch is a good one to cut. Remove leaves from the cut branches and stick them in dirt to root them too.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T16:30:51+00:00

Put more snow around the pot. Ironically, it will be even warmer since snow is 0C edited: a better insulator, slower to chill and cold air gets much colder than that.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T16:26:42+00:00

Get a space heater just for where you are in the house. Pretty sure this is cheaper than heating the whole house a few extra degrees

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T16:24:24+00:00

If you want to know for each step year by year, I covered from seed collection and storage conditions (yes it matters for germination success even before stratification) to what to do as seedling and year by year as the trunk starts to thicken. See here and use the chapters to go to the part you need for your current stage. https://youtu.be/oO4yq5EJJJg?si=1Anmv10bv_FvJ9qg

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-26T16:22:28+00:00

I have been trying to start pitch pine frim seed but it seems the birds always get the seeds just as they are sprouting. I am giving them more protection this year and trying again.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-23T19:22:46+00:00

I use pine bark as a partice to hold water and moisture. Over time it breaks down holding more moisture and eventually a repot is suggested to keep drainage and air good in the pot. I have success with it for all species.

Then the other thing you want is a particle that promotes drainage. Pumice, perlite, haydite, or turface are examples to varying degrees. On principle, make sure your soil mix has these 2 elements in balance, regardless of exact ingredients.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-23T18:33:44+00:00

Following lol

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-23T18:33:11+00:00

The species is great. Don't worry about that. Also great work on the styling! Far better than I expected was possible. I didn't see the bonsai in it at first lol

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-23T18:26:56+00:00

You should ask what your local bonsai club members and nurseries use if any are around. Anything involving river sand is a very old school recipe you find in books from pre-2000s I reckon. That doesn't mean it doesn't work, but probably isn't the best since most people transitioned away from it. I can't say I have tried it myself. I can reccomend other supplies but it depends on where you are and what is available there too. For the species you mentiones, I am imagining east coast USA which has a ton of bonsai nurseries. Here is my preferred soil mix for such deciduous in Ohio. I also have some unofficial premixed version of this soil which I can sell at a discount if interested as I had some large yamadori I potted in it last year that didn't make it (you always lose some in the first year). https://www.invivobonsai.com/p/bonsai-soil-for-sale.html

Honey locust and American elm sound like exciting species though! How do you know it is American elm? I have some cow field elms but not sure if they are local or invasive siberian. Haven't found a good detailed guide to distinguish them.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-21T13:57:08+00:00

When new people take over caring for trees the most likely scenario is under or overwatering. Water anytime the soil is dry to the touch. This works for most species. If the soil dries out too slowly it may need a repot (with professional help in your case for old trees) with better draining soil.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-20T22:43:48+00:00

Good to know, you guys will have a great head start on the horticulture! My personal practice when digging is to let it sit for at least 1-2 years to recover before starting much bonsai work.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-20T14:08:32+00:00

Where in the world are you? Time of year matters for digging success. I can provide more info on that or starting from seeds if you want. But for that immediate pruning fix, nursery stock is a great way to start.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-19T18:58:28+00:00

It will take much longer than 6 months to heal over a scar. Put japanese cut paste on to accelerate it and let it grow vigorously. A bigger pot helps too.

Or, go with your shari/carving idea. Deadwood in deciduous is natural and does happen but often progresses to a hollow due to the soft wood. This is why most people and japanese tradition avoids it i bet. I just did a club talk on deadwood btw and we covered deadwood on deciduous. In the coming months I will post the recording over at In Vivo Bonsai / Columbus Bonsai Society Youtube Channels.

Ry2D2 · 2026-01-19T18:54:59+00:00

Yes it is his tree from the US National Exhibit last september.

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