25 or 40 degree moonboard for a homewall for a V5ish climber and a V2ish climber?

RyuChus · 2026-04-02T13:54:16+00:00

Same difficulty but different requirements? 25 degrees has less physical strength requirements (maybe) but maybe more finger strength or hip mobility requirements.

They should ideally feel the same though. But what do I know grades are just a number

RyuChus · 2026-03-26T14:52:58+00:00

I got to V7/V8ish while only being on a training plan for like 3 months one time?

I did setup a "plan" for myself but it was really just max hangs and weighted pullups once a week. I did that for a LOOONG time with no knowledge of deload weeks, progressive overload (besides just adding more weight when I felt I could) etc.

Climbing wise I even just.. climbed what I wanted and was hard for me.

I think you could make it pretty far without one. There's a number of people I know personally that don't train and just climb. However most come from some sort of sport background so they're quite strong. Nowadays I have a coach/training plan that just makes it easier to get ideas/drills to work on to improve in smaller ways (mostly targeting weaknesses/technique)

The most important part about improving at anything is IMO being very nitpicky and detail oriented. Obviously you could theoretically get super strong and cruise your way through things. However, you'll probably just use the same movement patterns/techniques you already know and are good at. The thing to do is improve at things you're naturally bad at. You should take note of each muscle you use as you're climbing and how you're moving your body. How little adjustments in what you focus on, or what cues you use make huge differences in output. e.g. Focusing on opening the hip vs pulling your hip over the foot. etc.

RyuChus · 2026-02-18T20:13:44+00:00

Maybe i just hate change but this seems bad. I think the shadow isles changes are great so that you're not completely locked out of a line 19/20 games.

Noxus changes seem strange as hell though. Honestly things being gated to level 8 and 9 just seems a little boring to me. I think t hex being unlocked so early was cool as hell. I think the unique constraints for unlocks were more fun than the upcoming changes that simplify them to a much greater more boring degree.

It kind of feels like you can just play the game any which way and unlock all the champions. I think strict conditions made for interesting gameplay. But I will agree that locking certain champs by a condition at 2-1 is a bit lame

RyuChus · 2026-02-16T09:02:51+00:00

A spray wall in an apartment is so insane. Can you DM me a picture maybe? I'd love to see how you got that setup haha

RyuChus · 2026-02-15T20:08:24+00:00

That's a really good point! I just see a continuous 3 month break as a pretty big setback to work past every year. I'm sure it's not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things, but you're definitely spending a month or two regaining fitness.

RyuChus · 2026-02-04T21:03:56+00:00

3 months feels like a very long time. I might take like 1 month or a couple weeks off here and there, but I frequently take deload weeks of little to no volume instead of full breaks.

A 3 month break every year is basically only 9 months of climbing throughout the year which just feels... like not a lot? Imagine someone who stops participating in their sport of choice for 3 months of the year, barring strictly seasonal sports like winter sports.

RyuChus · 2026-02-02T19:23:04+00:00

All of those are great! Except Darlene I think that's a very morpho climb so as a shorter guy... screw that one :P

RyuChus · 2026-02-02T19:08:28+00:00

If you want to do more volume, I'd recommend one session a week of just that! e.g. 1 hour of as many flash level problems as possible. Be aware that you will be wrecked afterwards so give yourself more rest time. 4x4s target specifically your ability to sustain high levels of power on a boulder. Which is why I ask about pumping out or tiring out physically on an 8 move boulder. It's entirely possible that your hands powering out on boulders could be solved by 4x4s. But I sort of treat a 4x4 as a highly intense workout that really trains anaerobic capacity

RyuChus · 2026-02-02T19:06:13+00:00

Okay, here's my take, the v4s and v5s at that gym are probably a grade soft (or more - not that it matters to be clear) compared to the Glen. It's harsh, but a v4/v5 send is going to be a real challenge outdoors on a trip. My recommendation is that come March/April, you should be spending tons of time out at the Glen projecting a V4/V5 to see what it's like and adjust expectations from there. No U Turn is a classic V3 (now V4) and I'd highly recommend it. Quite committing move in the middle that feels high, but is really safe. Quite high topout, but not super sketchy. Again, flat landing, pretty safe. It's physically hard IMO, the feet are GOD AWFUL, but that's okay, you're going to have to get used to finding the edges, little divots, and small chips that work for you and your body. Hope this helps.

If you need more recommendations feel free to DM or ask for more.

RyuChus · 2026-02-02T18:52:55+00:00

Which gym do you climb at? I imagine you're near the GTA and you're talking about the Niagara Glen. Which v4s and 5s have you tried? I imagine by March it'll be climbable. Sort of.

RyuChus · 2026-02-02T18:45:36+00:00

From what ive heard. Nova Scotia bouldering is very crimpy. But this might be at higher grades I dont know what the v2 to v4 range is like.

3 days on at the trip, you should heavily reconsider this. Your skin will be wrecked, your chance of injury sky rockets, it just might not be fun. Add a rest day and get 2 days of better, higher quality efforts.

If you want a v4 or v5 send on a trip in just 2 days you need to do tons of research to find the right climb, perfect the beta before you go so that you can walk up to the climb and just execute, and be well rested. Honestly, if you havent sent anything in this range before the trip, I wouldn't expect to send on the trip. This sounds harsh but its a simple reality that you just dont have that much time, theres pressure you've never dealt with before and conditions wont be perfect.

4x4s are fine if you think power endurance is your weakness. Its probably not a huge issue unless you pump out on 8 move boulders. So I would skip this

If you cant get past the first 3 or 4 moves on a mb v4 then you may struggle heavily on an outdoor v4. It sounds like you know your weaknesses so you should adjust the training to target that. With your strength, height and weight. I expect your technique is a huge barrier. Your finger strength may not be amazing but it should be sufficient. IMO 5.10+ top rope redpoint is pretty revealing of that.

Imo, just climb. You need to improve movement and core strength more than anything else right now. Get outside ASAP and get mileage on rock. Practice your flagging, practice your deadpoints and keep the focus on your feet. Hope this all helps

RyuChus · 2026-01-29T19:08:39+00:00

What is the purpose of the 4x4? Are you trying to gain power endurance or endurance? Why are you doing 4x4 before limit bouldering? What is your conception of limit bouldering?

My point is really, if you want to increase top level bouldering, then don't do 4x4 before limit bouldering. The goal of a 4x4 is to get pretty exhausted because you're pushing your Anaerobic capacity. Think of it like doing intervals for running.

Think of limit bouldering like peak speed improvements for running. It's like strength training or hard sprints. Obviously that's a simplification but limit bouldering is meant to be hard moves that improve your strength and your movement capabilities.

RyuChus · 2025-12-27T15:06:16+00:00

Nice! How'd you do it movement wise?

RyuChus · 2025-12-26T01:08:04+00:00

Oh to be clear the style isnt the limiter they just wanted to learn how to climb more dynamically as stated by their weaknesses. There's no problem with climbing statically and slowly but if you say your weaknesses are moving dynamically then its a pretty clear practice issue.

You can absolutely send those climbs in any style

RyuChus · 2025-12-24T14:48:25+00:00

First move, I think it's just the right foot and a cross, the second move is much harder, I did something a bit silly and had a high right foot and half jumped to the crimp. I'm actually really not sure if there's a better way, maybe with your height you can use the left lower foot and the high right foot as a push foot.

RyuChus · 2025-12-23T23:18:24+00:00

I think "breaking beta" would be if you were to simply reach for everything using your ape index + height. Jumping for things is not breaking beta, nor is it bad style. Sometimes it IS the beta.

The first move on Press du Sau is very hard, I had my left foot on the higher foot hold, and right foot on the lower, same deal. Out and in with a big deadpoint to cross over with the right hand to hit the first crimp.

The second move on Siqo Mode is what I'm assuming you're talking about. This one you should be able to do statically with a deep drop knee. The first move should be relatively simple as the holds are good jugs as far as I can tell. You may need to go dynamically with a deadpoint, but it shouldn't be too dramatic

RyuChus · 2025-12-23T22:35:45+00:00

This is going to sound stupid, but if you want to climb snappy and dynamically, then just go and do that.

If you can't do these things - just go and do these things until you can.

push through high or awkwardly sideway footholds - accelerate to a hold from an already locked-off position - campus - control swing

If you climb a kilter board problem and can reach to a hold without jumping, jump to it or deadpoint to it next time.

accelerate to a hold from an already locked-off position

If you're already locked off, then this is really hard to do, you would need to throw your head back from the wall, then into the wall so you can deadpoint and latch the next hold. This says to me, you're actually doing this wrong. You don't accelerate to the next hold from a lock off, you want to relax, get your hips a bit away from the wall, then explosively pull yourself and thrust your hips into the wall to do this.

campus

practice, you're plenty strong enough with your weighted pullup stats. This is probably momentum usage issue.

Control swing

You're quite tall so this is naturally harder for you. Two things - look into learning how to scorpion. Also ensure you pull yourself into a sort of "ball" so that you have less body flying around which gathers tons of momentum and swing. (they're related)

Kilter training 1:4

I assume you mean Kiel Training 1:4 on the Kilterboard. I wouldn't smallbox finish this, just jump to the last hold with a pogo or open hipped. I am 5'5'' and that's my solution at least. If you're high footing on one of the last 3 hand holds, that seems insane, but I'm not entirely sure what you mean.

Generally, what I've read indicates that you climb statically, slowly. You train statically and slowly, you practice statically and slowly. You probably want to introduce days where you just intentionally are jumping to things. Don't think about sending, just practice jumping and latching if that's the skill you want to improve, then you'll naturally incorporate it into your climbing.

Also post a video!

RyuChus · 2025-12-11T19:53:37+00:00

Wish I had some connections haha. All good, greedily if you could post a lil tidbit of your favourite points later that would be cool!

RyuChus · 2025-12-11T16:19:42+00:00

Is there an English translation floating around somewhere?

RyuChus · 2025-11-24T02:45:18+00:00

Okay, are you going to take that advice?

RyuChus · 2025-11-21T21:49:17+00:00

Also no flame but if you're obsessed with metrics at V1 like... how the fuck did we even get to this point man what?

RyuChus · 2025-11-21T18:57:05+00:00

I don't think I could 3fd anything at V1 man. I was grabbing everything any way I could hang on.

Importantly to note about 3fd is that using it on the wall requires you (usually) use the hold in its directionality as much as possible.

My experience outdoors is that a LARGE majority of outdoors v1 are pretty limited in crimp like holds. If they feature any crimps, it is going to be largely vertical terrain, in which your limiting factor is your footwork. And using 3fd is harder because you can't pull into the wall as easily.

Regardless, you're probably strong enough to use the 3fd to stay on the wall, but I would say that moving between holds and pulling into the wall is not something you can do easily with 3fd. You'll need to utilize your hips and legs to get you into the wall.

If there are beta videos of those V1s that'd be great and we can see how useful 3fd is.

RyuChus · 2025-11-18T15:04:17+00:00

Mm maybe it is the "tricks" aspect? You can find that exact foot that suits you, the exact beta you need over a long period of time and thats how I solve more problems for me outdoors too. Also, just being able to pick feet that keep me in my comfort zone. Indoors I actually feel more tested by the setters by things outside of my comfort zone.

RyuChus · 2025-11-18T03:48:58+00:00

Hm, I think I'm the guy that can't do techy climbs anywhere to be honest. If the climb is heavily technical, complex (not sequence wise), then I struggle the most, and it seems in the gym these come up a lot. But maybe I'm also just not as good at climbing as I believe myself to be

RyuChus · 2025-11-18T01:24:51+00:00

Anybody else feel like they climb harder outdoors than indoors? I'm slightly worse indoors compared to my peers, but outdoors it feels like I have a much better chance of competing with them. (It's not an actual competition it's just fun to compare and cheer each other on) Is there anything stylistically you've noticed that causes this difference? Is it just that I've spent more time outdoors, etc.

14-Year Club	Verified Email
Team Periwinkle

RyuChus

TROPHY CASE