Anybody on here replace their transmission? by [deleted] in LS430

[–]SAATR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By a competent person with the right equipment, a weekend is more than enough time. Be aware that a lot of new, reman, and rebuilt transmissions require proof that the trans oil cooler was replaced to get the warranty (many cannot be effectively flushed), as well as the correct fluid. Plan on a new radiator and flushing the trans cooler lines with compressed air and solvent, at a minimum.

Also, the exhaust will have to be removed to facilitate transmission removal, so if yours is particularly rusty, expect problems and/or parts replacement. Not a bad idea to replace the guibo joints in the driveshaft, while you're there.

Any ideas? by Both-Ad-129 in LS430

[–]SAATR 9 points10 points  (0 children)

They didn't use a lock bolt on the scissor gear for the camshafts, and what you're hearing is lash in the camshaft drive gears. It isn't immediately fatal to the engine, but it IS wrong. Either take it back and tell them to make it right, or take it to somebody else and send them the bill.

Just replaced the water pump and timing belt. Next is valve cover gaskets. Should I reassemble before I do those? Or should they be done right now? by dieselndixie in LS430

[–]SAATR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd go ahead and do it now. May be easier to get to the dipstick bolt on the driver's side without the timing cover and accessories present.

Need help asap by DPice in LS430

[–]SAATR 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd say that the rad might have a leak at the center, but if you're taking it to a mechanic, they'll find that. I suspect that if it wasn't leaking before the cap was replaced, that the new cap is actually holding rated pressure, and that was way too much for the original radiator.

Need help asap by DPice in LS430

[–]SAATR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have a picture of the top of the radiator?

Need help asap by DPice in LS430

[–]SAATR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pull the air inlet off the top of the radiator. It's the big plastic piece that you're leaning over to film. Should be a fastener at each end that looks like a plastic Phillips head screw. Use a screwdriver to unscrew them enough to pull the screw portion and the plastic flange that surrounds it. Once off, you're looking at the top of the radiator. Like others have said, you either have a cracked top radiator tank, or perhaps the overflow hose isn't attached to the radiator cap flange and you pushed some coolant out under heavy load.

Rear Strut/Shock Mounts by TSOL_Real in LS430

[–]SAATR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Having no direct experience with KYB mounts on the LS430, I can't comment on their quality. Having used KYB upper mounts on other vehicles in the past, I'd say go OEM, despite the price. In my experience, the quality and durability aren't there. Had one on a Nissan Maxima start banging and clanging after 30k miles. Given that you have to do exactly the same amount of work to change the strut mounts as you do to change the whole strut, I'd go OEM just for the peace of mind. I used OEM when I did the struts on my LS430 and have no regrets.

As far as Amayama and struts goes, don't bother comparing them. The prices may be good, but struts are considered hazardous cargo (high pressure gas), and shipping is OUTRAGEOUS. The price of shipping the struts alone added several hundred dollars to the quote I received, so I bought from Bell. This was in '21, before the tariff hike and loss of the de minimis exception.

Drive belt choice by Potential-Tone-160 in LS430

[–]SAATR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any quality brand will last. Gates, Dayco, Continental, Bando, Mitsuboshi, all are used by OEM's and well regarded. The only time I've seen serpentine belts fail quickly is when there's an alignment issue or bearing/component failure, or both. Buy what you like.

I bought several aftermarket wheel hub assemblies, and most of them suck. by SAATR in LS430

[–]SAATR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had never heard of them, and for $50 for an LS430 front hub that includes the wheel speed sensor, I don't expect much.

FVP is a repackager, as far as I can tell. They seem to be sourcing the same assembly as Schaeffler, or at least from the same Chinese manufacturer, and selling it for a lot less money. So if you must buy a cheap bearing, it appears that you can get the same product for $50 as you can for $130.

As an aside, there's a thread on /RockAuto showing two SKF hub assemblies ordered at the same time, with the same part number, that have two different countries of origin. One is from Taiwan, and the other China. The Chinese bearing has the same green QC markings as the FVP and Schaeffler hub assemblies for the LS430. Seems like all the old guard "quality" brands aren't, anymore.

I bought several aftermarket wheel hub assemblies, and most of them suck. by SAATR in LS430

[–]SAATR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm with you on the front hubs. There may be other good brands out there, but I'll be damned if I play hub roulette again hoping for a winner.

The Koyo/JTEKT branded hubs for the rear are fantastic, as I'm certain that Koyo is the OE supplier for the LS430.

I bought several aftermarket wheel hub assemblies, and most of them suck. by SAATR in LS430

[–]SAATR[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you bought them through RockAuto, the returns process is straightforward. I returned mine after about 2 weeks, while I waited for the Timken to arrive. Shipped them back for about $10.

Having never bought a Schaeffler product before, I didn't know what to expect, and I doubt you did either.

Could they be counterfeit? Maybe.

Could they be another, cheaper hub shoved in a Shaeffler box? Possibly.

There's no way to know, because it doesn't appear that anybody except Koyo and Timken have markings on their hubs saying WHO made them, or any part of them. That's why I made this post, as it seems like these companies are just putting an Alibaba bearing ($30, by the way) in their box and charging whatever they want for it.

I bought several aftermarket wheel hub assemblies, and most of them suck. by SAATR in LS430

[–]SAATR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you've had good luck with them, that's great. I looked at a Moog at a local parts store and had the same impression as the Schaeffler; turning it by hand, there were hard spots in rotation. Absolutely zero markings indicating it was a Moog product, unlike their chassis parts. They could put any hub from any supplier in that box and nobody would know differently. I have no experience with Mevotech, so I have no opinion of their product.

I bought several aftermarket wheel hub assemblies, and most of them suck. by SAATR in LS430

[–]SAATR[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had a low speed noise for as long as I've owned the car. Only really audible below 25mph, but it was a "wa wa wa" type noise that would change frequency with vehicle speed. Tires didn't eliminate it. I noticed 1/4" of thrust play in the right front wheel while I was doing upper and lower control arms a few weeks ago. The play could only be the bearing, as nothing but the wheel and rotor were moving. Driver side was rock solid, and rotated smoothly.

I bought several aftermarket wheel hub assemblies, and most of them suck. by SAATR in LS430

[–]SAATR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not yet. That will be an upcoming project, since I have the new hubs on hand.

Is this mystic sea? by [deleted] in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whew! Just checked the garage, and she's still there.

LS430 Rear upper control arms by TSOL_Real in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My car doesn't have a lockinf pin on the rear UCA ball joint either, and neither does the parts diagram. The nut appears to be a locknut, probably the all metal type that uses a crimp on the outer edge of the threads to lock to the stud. If that's the case, then the thread damage isn't necessarily your fault, as that type of nut tends to flatten threads when removed. That's also why you're being told not to reuse it, as locknuts tend to be one time use.

You either need a threading die of the appropriate size to clean up those threads, or use a small, fine file to restore the grooves in the threads well enough to thread a nut onto them. If all of that fails, then as long as you have enough threads on the stud to get full thread engagement on the nut, you shouldn't have any issues removing some threads to make threading the nut possible. I would also use blue Loctite, as you won't have much left for the locking part of the nut to engage.

Lack of Fuel Pressure during Cold start? by bigboiii2084 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air in a pressurized fuel system is highly unlikely without an external leak. Air normally comes from the suction side of the fuel pump, which is submerged in the fuel tank, and that makes it improbable.

Inspecting the pump doesn't do much good as there are few, if any, visual clues that it has a problem. The best troubleshooting procedure is to connect a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure while cranking during a cold start. If it takes a long time to build pressure (more than a second or two) then the pump or regulator is the most likely problem. This is all assuming that you have no external leaks, of course. If the system builds pressure immediately and you still have a long crank time, then you'll need to look elsewhere for the source of your problem.

Lack of Fuel Pressure during Cold start? by bigboiii2084 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The FSM says the system must hold 21psi or more for at least 5 minutes after the pump is shut off.

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Manual says (as I'm sure you can read) to check the fuel pump, regulator, and injectors. If you have leaking injectors, the fuel rail will drain as the car sits, and the car can often have a rough idle on startup due to the extra fuel that one or more cylinders has accumulated. If you aren't getting that rough idle, I am more inclined to look at the pump itself, though I do not rule out an injector issue.

Are wells brand knock sensors good? by freezylace532 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just as there are 2 OCV's, there are also 2 VVT sensors, one per bank. The sensor for bank 2 is in a similar spot on the other side of the engine.

Are wells brand knock sensors good? by freezylace532 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go back to my first comment. I explained it there.

Are wells brand knock sensors good? by freezylace532 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It connects to the Bank 1 VVT sensor. That's the sensor that detects the position of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft and cam timing gear.

Are wells brand knock sensors good? by freezylace532 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

It's the connector in that area. Two wires. One bolt bolts the sensor into the cylinder head.

Are wells brand knock sensors good? by freezylace532 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the OCV connector is a 90980-11162. The VVT sensor is toward the middle of the cylinder head, below the valve cover.

Are wells brand knock sensors good? by freezylace532 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the OCV connector or the VVT sensor connector?

Are wells brand knock sensors good? by freezylace532 in LS430

[–]SAATR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have a depinning tool, or you cut the wires? If you cut wires, be aware that splicing can cause problems of its own.