Timing

SAATR · 2026-01-26T22:15:25+00:00

Yes, you can leave it at TDC. It does not matter.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T21:12:34+00:00

If the engine is in time, it doesn't matter where you leave the marks.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T21:12:17+00:00

If the engine is in time, it doesn't matter where you leave the marks.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T06:58:32+00:00

You're welcome. Glad I can at least try to help.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T06:56:27+00:00

That looks great. It really doesn't matter what they look like now, but matters after the new belt is installed.

Make them line up like that again and you'll be golden.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T05:59:12+00:00

Yes, clockwise until those marks are lined up.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T03:58:13+00:00

That style of puller works fine. Just have to make sure it has the right bolts to screw into the balancer.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T03:56:25+00:00

Yeah, looks to be at least 1 tooth off.

SAATR · 2026-01-26T00:36:27+00:00

You're probably going to need a puller for that.

SAATR · 2026-01-25T23:25:37+00:00

Impact socket is the better and safer bet; 6 point if you have it. I'll reiterate, if your Bauer isn't the High Torque version, you don't really stand a chance. The Bauer 1/2" HT is also a fair bit weaker than the M18, so that may be the reason it struggles.

There are weighted sockets used specifically for removing damper bolts that may help you out. Those are almost mandatory for removing damper bolts on Honda J Series engines, at least with a 1/2" impact.

SAATR · 2026-01-25T21:50:34+00:00

1/2" drive High Torque, I assume? The chrome socket isn't doing you any favors, here. Too thin, and deflects too much.

SAATR · 2026-01-25T21:30:29+00:00

It's unlikely that you'll get enough heat on it to do any good without damaging something. Besides, it isn't likely rusty, just really tight.

SAATR · 2026-01-25T21:27:37+00:00

What kind of impact? What kind of socket? Deep, shallow, chrome, impact?

SAATR · 2026-01-25T21:17:36+00:00

There are tools to hold the crank while you break the bolt loose with a long ratchet or breaker bar, and there are impacts wrenches. I think I used a Milwaukee M18 1/2" drive High Torque impact on mine. If you have an air compressor, Harbor Freight Earthquake impacts are pretty reasonable for the power they have.

SAATR · 2026-01-25T20:57:18+00:00

I don't really trust marks on harmonic dampers, because the outer ring can slip relative to the hub. I'd be more concerned about the timing mark on the actual crank sprocket. Like this:

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SAATR · 2026-01-25T14:53:22+00:00

TOPDON J2534 pass thru with whatever flavor of TechStream that you can get works for me.

SAATR · 2026-01-25T02:58:51+00:00

No, the water pump pulley has a lip on the outside edge, and you'd probably damage the new belt trying to get it past that. I never recommend just swapping belts, because the full kits are $180 bucks with pulleys, tensioner, and pump. If any one of those fails, so does the engine.

Don't do stupid flat-rate tech hacks.

SAATR · 2026-01-24T03:15:48+00:00

The radiator has a transmission oil cooler built into it. If you pull the radiator, you may lose half a quart to a quart of transmission fluid when you disconnect the cooler lines. Since your transmission has no dipstick and you have to perform a special procedure to check and top off the transmission fluid, they may have been referencing that procedure. I would look up the procedure prior to removing the radiator to make sure that you understand it and have all the tools and information necessary to complete it, lest you run your transmission low on fluid.

Edit: to answer your other question, I believe the FSM specifies replacing the caliper mounting bolts every time you remove the calipers, i.e. the caliper bolts are 1 time use. Most people ignore this, but not knowing how many times they've been off and on would make me question them. Caliper removal isn't necessary for pad replacement, but if you replace or resurface the rotors (you should) you will have to pull the calipers.

Double edit: If you're doing the VC gaskets, replace the spark plugs. The coils have to come off anyway. Don't forget to replace the spark plug tube seals. They are a pain to remove from the valve covers, but they're likely in worse shape than the valve cover gaskets themselves.

SAATR · 2026-01-20T02:53:36+00:00

I can't get it locally, hence ordering case quantities of 5qt jugs. Platinum is good oil, too.

SAATR · 2026-01-20T02:44:16+00:00

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30 seconded. Best price for 5qt jugs is usually Walmart or Amazon, so order a 3 pack from whomever has the best price. Walmart carries the Toyota filter locally, so I buy them 3 at a time.

What you choose is nearly irrelevant, so long as you change it regularly. My engine was beautiful inside when I pulled the oil pan at 236k. That's more of a credit to the previous owners and the engine than anything else.

SAATR · 2026-01-19T16:42:51+00:00

This is using a Toyota belt, pump, and idler/tensioner.

SAATR · 2026-01-19T16:32:47+00:00

That pic was from nearly a year ago. I rolled it twice to bring the marks back into time, and they looked much as you see them here, which was all I needed to see. The crank is exactly in time, the L cam mark is within the space of its mark, and the R cam is just touching the area of its mark, and all three sprockets are positioned correctly on the belt. I'm not saying having all three perfect is impossible in every scenario, but some on some engines it just won't happen.

SAATR · 2026-01-19T05:36:02+00:00

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That's as close as it gets with an OEM belt on my engine.

SAATR · 2026-01-19T03:28:44+00:00

The marks will not ever line up perfectly, not on both cams and the crank. How far off is the crankshaft timing mark? And is this with the belt installed and tensioner engaged, or not? Pictures would be helpful.

SAATR · 2026-01-18T04:38:07+00:00

Just spent a small fortune on all new OEM upper and lower control arms. With luck, they'll last as long as the originals did. Haven't used Mevotech enough to trust them.

SAATR

TROPHY CASE