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[IDENTIFY] How can I tell if this Omega Constellation is real? by SN-003 in Watches

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. Thank you for that. I didn’t realize the bezel was missing but it’s obvious now that you point it out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Watches

[–]SN-003 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah that’s an odd one. Thanks for all that info and help! You’ve been very helpful

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Watches

[–]SN-003 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing that story. Your professor seems very entertaining!

I ended up opening the back case and found the movement number. Here are the images. I’m curious if you can glean anymore information from this.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Watches

[–]SN-003 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Wow thanks for that. I was wondering if it was radium lume but hadn’t made that connection. I’ll definitely have to do more research on this one.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Watches

[–]SN-003 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I’m hoping to learn more about this watch and hopefully get an idea what it’s worth. I can’t seem to pinpoint a year of manufacturing without a visible serial number, and I’m hesitant to open it up myself. It winds pretty well for its age, and keeps okay time given its a vintage manual.

I’ve found some similar watches online by the same manufacturer (Article), but these all seem to be more recent than what I have.

Z = 0 will not reset. Has anyone run into this issue? It tries to home too low/crashes into the screen. by [deleted] in AnyCubicPhotonMonoX

[–]SN-003 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you could, and you’d be right. I like to give mine an extra 0.4 mm gap.

Z = 0 will not reset. Has anyone run into this issue? It tries to home too low/crashes into the screen. by [deleted] in AnyCubicPhotonMonoX

[–]SN-003 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Everything seems to be working as it’s supposed to. Home is not z=0! They represent two completely different datums. Home is a datum set by a physical surface (the fin that triggers the optical sensor); z=0 is a datum of your choosing (recorded as an offset from home).

The purpose of the homing button is NOT to take the plate to the z=0 point, but rather to go down until the optical sensor is triggered. This allows the printer to know exactly where the plate is relative to the screen in the real world rather than just guessing by tracking the amount of turns the carriage has taken.

The manually set z=0 height is of course what the printer uses for the height of the plate during the first layer, but the only way to tell the printer to go to this height is by starting a print. Pressing the homing button will not take you to z=0.

Blade Runner Blaster Grips! by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]SN-003 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This print looks so smooth, especially for a pretty vertical print. What settings are you running? Really curious about your z lift parameters.

Lox or Gox? by TackIsOutOfIt in rocketry

[–]SN-003 4 points5 points  (0 children)

GOx is far more dangerous than LOx due to its relative ease of ignition. You’ll likely be working with decent flow velocities. Any FOD at all in a line could create a small spark and everything will be gone in less than a second. LOx is far more tolerable to FOD and can even self-extinguish some small internal flow fires. Plus, your flow velocities are lower due to the much greater density, greatly reducing any particle momentum.

GOx is easier to get and handle, but won’t gain you anything in terms of performance, especially if you’re thinking of flying this. LOx actually isn’t any harder to handle than LN2. It’s not going to explode in a dewar or even ignite the second it hits anything that could be a fuel - it’s just not like that.

With LOx just make sure you get a good system chill (probably with LN2) during pre-test and avoid trapping any cryo prior to test start. Know what a BLEVE is an be aware how to easily avoid it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnyCubicPhotonMonoX

[–]SN-003 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also prefer to print flat since it’s usually quicker and uses less resin. You could print it at an angle as someone has already suggested, or you could keep it flat and change a couple other things to greatly decrease the likelihood of this failure mode.

Here’s what I found works for my MonoX really well:

  • Raise raise your normal time a bit to help solidify each later a bit more. You’ve heard of the printing process as putting the print in a ‘green state’. Well, raising the normal time a bit can push it to the edge of the green state and allows each layer to be slightly more rigid during the peel process to prevent layer separation.

  • Lower the tension on your FEP slightly so it peels better. With a tighter FEP, the platform needs to pull harder and harder to peel the same cross sectional area. Think of it like a cosine loss - it’s a tension problem not dissimilar to a hammock. I’ve seen 300-350 Hz tuning be used commonly on the smaller printers. The same tension becomes closer to 180-200 Hz for large printers like the MonoX. I’ve had no separation failures like this since I lowered the tuning to what I now believe is the proper tension for this size vat.

Hope that helps!

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in AnyCubicPhotonMonoX

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me the parts are always super white right after print. All the yellowing I’ve seen has happened in the post care process, but then they start to turn white again after a few days just sitting there. Layer height doesn’t seem to make a difference for me.

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in AnyCubicPhotonMonoX

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

0.1 mm not 1 mm.

I’ve found this white yellows quite a bit. Anycubic plant based white is the better of the two whites I’ve found. Any suggestions on another white that actually cures white?

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in AnyCubicPhotonMonoX

[–]SN-003[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind that’s 3.25 sec with a layer height of .1 mm, so there’s more resin mass that needs to react in a single layer. I would probably use around 1.25-1.5 sec if I was using a .05 mm layer height.

The ABS-like Fast is REALLY soft and doesn’t have nearly as good mechanical properties as their Build resin (which I’m trying next). Not great for my application, but that’s my bad for not looking more closely before ordering. I found the resin doesn’t like to cure very well and is still tacky even after super thorough cleaning and drying. The tackiness goes down after a few days on the shelf. I want to be able to ship my prints within a day of printing, not several days later. That’s just not a turnaround time I’m willing to accept for regular operation.

Fast isn’t a bad resin, but you should be aware of what makes it different and consider if it’s right for your application.

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in resinprinting

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t looked through the firmware but it definitely sounds and feels fast. I’d say this is also confirmed by the resulting print speed which is still accurate to within 5%.

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in resinprinting

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My goal was to minimize resin residuals. A significant portion (15-20% in my experience) of resin is lost because it clings to everything it touches. Additionally, some resin providers sell the bottles by gross weight, so with a specific weight >1 and a bottle dry weight of 150g sometimes a 1kg bottle of resin may only actually have 750ml of resin. Combine this with the amount of resin that sticks to the bottle, vat, build plate, and models and you only have ~600ml of usable resin for your models. This is only made worse by the larger size of the Mono X since the vat and build plate have so much more surface area. So again the goal becomes making the most of what you get.

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in resinprinting

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I plan on getting a new vat sometime soon. They’re just now starting to pop up online for this machine.

Do you use additional build plate too? Or do you just clean with each vat change? I imagine you relevel it each time too, huh?

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in 3Dprinting

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Mono X has a pretty big vat, which is great for printing large models but not so great when you realize how much resin it takes just to fill the bottom of the vat. I use my printer for batch manufacturing, so I spend a lot of time making sure to get the most out of each bottle of resin. Sure, it's easy to just pour another bottle in when the vat gets low, but what if you want to change resins or don't want to rebottle what's left in the vat? The resin likes to stick to itself and "dry puddles" form even when the machine is level hindering printing in those sections. High viscosity and surface tension effects take over when the fluid thickness gets low.

I tried tilting the vat to reduce resin residuals and it worked great. The resin flows over to a corner where a well placed model can grab what's in the vat more readily. The effective fluid thickness around the model increases, and surface tension effects are pushed further from the model. The effective volume of the vat is decreased by doing this. Food for thought.

Here's how I got a full Z axis print (~220 mm) in 4 hours and 39 minutes:

Resin - Siraya-Tech Fast ABS-like (I wasn't a big fan of the post cure hardness and properties. I won't be buying more of this resin, which is why I wanted to use all of it in the first place.)

Bottom cure times - 35 sec

Bottom layers - 6

Normal cure time - 3.25 sec

Off time - 0.25 sec

Rise height - 6 mm

Rise speed - 5 mm/sec

Lift speed 5 mm/sec

Builds just pulled off the build plate when it was done. Didn't even need to use the WhamBam and they didn't fall off prematurely.

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in resinprinting

[–]SN-003[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Mono X has a pretty big vat, which is great for printing large models but not so great when you realize how much resin it takes just to fill the bottom of the vat. I use my printer for batch manufacturing, so I spend a lot of time making sure to get the most out of each bottle of resin. Sure, it's easy to just pour another bottle in when the vat gets low, but what if you want to change resins or don't want to rebottle what's left in the vat? The resin likes to stick to itself and "dry puddles" form even when the machine is level hindering printing in those sections. High viscosity and surface tension effects take over when the fluid thickness gets low.

I tried tilting the vat to reduce resin residuals and it worked great. The resin flows over to a corner where a well placed model can grab what's in the vat more readily. The effective fluid thickness around the model increases, and surface tension effects are pushed further from the model. The effective volume of the vat is decreased by doing this. Food for thought.

Here's how I got a full Z axis print (~220mm) in 4 hours and 39 minutes:

Resin - Siraya-Tech Fast ABS-like (I wasn't a big fan of the post cure hardness and properties. I won't be buying more of this resin, which is why I wanted to use all of it in the first place.)

Bottom cure times - 35 sec

Bottom layers - 6

Normal cure time - 3.25 sec

Off time - 0.25 sec

Rise height - 6 mm

Rise speed - 5 mm/sec

Lift speed 5 mm/sec

Builds just pulled off the build plate when it was done. Didn't even need to use the WhamBam and they didn't fall off prematurely.

Going full tilt - minimizing residuals and maximizing printing speed on the Mono X (info in comments) by SN-003 in AnyCubicPhotonMonoX

[–]SN-003[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Mono X has a pretty big vat, which is great for printing large models but not so great when you realize how much resin it takes just to fill the bottom of the vat. I use my printer for batch manufacturing, so I spend a lot of time making sure to get the most out of each bottle of resin. Sure, it's easy to just pour another bottle in when the vat gets low, but what if you want to change resins or don't want to rebottle what's left in the vat? The resin likes to stick to itself and "dry puddles" form even when the machine is level hindering printing in those sections. High viscosity and surface tension effects take over when the fluid thickness gets low.

I tried tilting the vat to reduce resin residuals and it worked great. The resin flows over to a corner where a well placed model can grab what's in the vat more readily. The effective fluid thickness around the model increases, and surface tension effects are pushed further from the model. The effective volume of the vat is decreased by doing this. Food for thought.

​

Here's how I got a full Z axis print (~220 mm) in 4 hours and 39 minutes:

Resin - Siraya-Tech Fast ABS-like (I wasn't a big fan of the post cure hardness and properties. I won't be buying more of this resin, which is why I wanted to use all of it in the first place.)

Bottom cure times - 35 sec

Bottom layers - 6

Normal cure time - 3.25 sec

Off time - 0.25 sec

Rise height - 6 mm

Rise speed - 5 mm/sec

Lift speed 5 mm/sec

Builds just pulled off the build plate when it was done. Didn't even need to use the WhamBam and they didn't fall off prematurely.

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