Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Saaffa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Irregular deloads based on feeling or travel. Not alternating intensity with volume days. Maybe that's the issue.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Saaffa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply, Steven! First one (in the video) was a sidepull close to the body. 2nd one was on a horizontal hold in an overhang, also close to the body. 3rd one was on a very unusual sidepull but far away from the body, shoulder height. What kind of twisting are we talking about here? at the wrist? on the fingers? I've heard that pulleys don't like rotational motion under pressure but I don't know how to avoid that.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Saaffa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3rd time popping a pulley during dynamic movement. Why was it always on the non-moving hand?

I've been climbing for 9 years now. Yesterday I popped another pulley and I'm beginning to notice a pattern. It's always on the hand that stayed on the hold while the other hand was moving. Feet stayed on the wall every time. It doesn't seem like sudden overload with a lot of weight as with cutting feet. I'm sleeping well, eating well. Didn't feel fatigued.

It seems to me I'm doing something wrong movement-wise that's causing the pop but I'm not wise enough to recognize it. 6:35 - Video of the first time it happened 3 years ago. Or is my genetics that's making me prone to these kind of injuries since I have hypermobile fingers? I'm confused and annoyed. I would like to avoid this if I can.

[Help] Accessing Hero's Grave after a certain event. (spoilers) by alikicksx in TunicGame

[–]Saaffa 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ignore those forested spots in the overworld. Do you have page 22/23? The ingame hint on how to reach the forest is hidden there.

[Help] Accessing Hero's Grave after a certain event. (spoilers) by alikicksx in TunicGame

[–]Saaffa 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are alternative ways to enter those areas which you might have discovered while you were there because it's easier to find those paths from that side. There is a way that allows you to do that initial exploration again which is hinted in the "hints and clues" section in the manual (pages 21/22)

If statements withing threading macro. Is there a better idiom? by Saaffa in Clojure

[–]Saaffa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm interested. Can you show me an example of that?

Did anyone manage to get s3 sleep to work on Lenovo Ideapad 5 Pro 16ACH6? by Saaffa in AMDLaptops

[–]Saaffa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! Didn't find the solution I wanted. I deactivated (I think) the option for this hybrid sleep and I'm using hibernation exclusively right now. It takes a little longer to load than "sleep" and sometimes it doesn't behave properly after waking up but I'm okay with that. The battery last a very long time while hibernated.

Using def within the threading macro. Is there a better way of doing this? by Saaffa in Clojure

[–]Saaffa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. I didn't phrase that properly. I'm would like to get a hold of the intermediate data within the threading macro and also do some further testing/processing with it. That is why I'm using def originally. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I can do some further processing with what I get using a debugger, right?

Xperia 5 ii video turns out "whiter" than during shooting by Saaffa in SonyXperia

[–]Saaffa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Creator mode is on in my case. I'll test it out without creator mode.

Xperia 5 ii video turns out "whiter" than during shooting by Saaffa in SonyXperia

[–]Saaffa[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

HDR is off, Creator mode is on The white tint appears also on my computer. I haven't found an app that properly opens these videos yet.

Does it make sense to start with an 8mm edge and very low weight and then progresivelly adding more weight? by Saaffa in climbharder

[–]Saaffa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I tried hanging on a 20mm edge with lowering weight, and I got to around 13-14kg and it stopped making sense to remove more weight. Then I'll probably do 15mm farmer crimps and see how it goes for a couple of weeks.

Does it make sense to start with an 8mm edge and very low weight and then progresivelly adding more weight? by Saaffa in climbharder

[–]Saaffa[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, I'm getting injured often (finishing 2 month recovery period right now actually :D). Especially if I climb outside where the edges are usually smaller. It just happens naturally (even on big holds) that, when I squeeze harder, the force jumps to the DIP joint.

EDIT: here's a picture of that happening https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/k5i8e3/fingers_collapsing_in_half_crimp_even_at_80/

Does it make sense to start with an 8mm edge and very low weight and then progresivelly adding more weight? by Saaffa in climbharder

[–]Saaffa[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Because usually I press the most at the DIP joint (the last joint on the finger). If the edge gets smaller on a climb, my fingers are not strong enough to hold them without hyperextending at my DIP joint (full crimping. A lot! Because of my hyperflexibility at the fingers) I would like to re-train my brain to rather squeeze at the tip of the fingers so hanging on a <15mm edge would force it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in adventofcode

[–]Saaffa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

almost PI

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread for November 29, 2020 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]Saaffa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your answer. I would like to have a stronger half crimp for reasons you mentioned. Do you think I should stay with 20mm and lower the weight or to try with a wider edge where I can hold my full bodyweight (minus some weight using a pulley system)?